COP Thread - Page 87 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 09-18-2014, 09:55 AM   #1721
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ireland
Posts: 465
Total Cats: 16
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
You don't have a valve cover?

I'm pretty sure it'll have the dimensions you need...
If there was a dxf readily available it would have made life easier. No need to be a smart ****

I found what i need on grab cad

https://grabcad.com/library/mazda-b6-coil-adapter
rhysmate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2014, 10:21 AM   #1722
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
 
concealer404's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 8,465
Total Cats: 784
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
Same here, I've got at least one flakey coil now after running them in batch for quite a while off the stock ECU. I really wish we could get a dwell reducer that actually works. I think I have about 10 coils in the garage now, its going to suck when I finally get around to figuring out how to test them.

Also, the car idled way smoother on the cops than it did on the factory coilpack, even on the stock ECU.

Necro-quote, but was this misfire without rhyme or reason?

I'm running in batch, but there's a big resistor thing in the harness. Been fighting a completely random misfire.
concealer404 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2014, 02:16 PM   #1723
Destroyer of Inconel
iTrader: (37)
 
EO2K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: In ur driveway, abusin' ur WPA
Posts: 9,642
Total Cats: 954
Default

It had rhyme and reason, but solving it was suck. It only really did it when hot, so I'd have to drive it until things got hot and then sit on the side of the road swapping with a spare until it went away. Easy peasy.

What's the resistor for? I don't remember seeing that in any of the writeups.
EO2K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2014, 03:42 PM   #1724
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 613
Total Cats: 12
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lazzer408 View Post
1.6L_COP_Schematic

Would it be ok to solder the 1Kohm resistor inside the igniter box between the blue and yellow/blue from one spade to the other? That would keep the resistor from becoming damaged and/or breaking.

Also, I got a set of resistors at Radio Shack, they say "1k ohm, 1/4watt carbon film resistor", is this the right one?

And, do I really need to add the 10000uf capacitor to the 12v and ground?

Thanks!
Attached Thumbnails
COP Thread-1.6l_cop_schematic.jpg  

Last edited by btabor; 12-06-2014 at 04:10 PM.
btabor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2014, 04:47 PM   #1725
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,900
Total Cats: 1,793
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by btabor View Post

Would it be ok to solder the 1Kohm resistor inside the igniter box between the blue and yellow/blue from one spade to the other? That would keep the resistor from becoming damaged and/or breaking.

Also, I got a set of resistors at Radio Shack, they say "1k ohm, 1/4watt carbon film resistor", is this the right one?

And, do I really need to add the 10000uf capacitor to the 12v and ground?

Thanks!
The oem pull up is in that white black wire. Have you built your ms yet? It'd be preferable to add it in that harness.

Cap is not needed
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2014, 05:58 PM   #1726
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 613
Total Cats: 12
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
The oem pull up is in that white black wire. Have you built your ms yet? It'd be preferable to add it in that harness.

Cap is not needed
Would this work for less clutter? (Bad picture, but I would solder a resistor inside the igniter connecting Blue to Blue/yellow and then jump Blue yellow to black/white)

I have MSPNP1

What I dont understand is why that schematic shows the resistor bridging blue and yellow/blue, why not just place the resistor between the yellow/blue and white black instead?
Attached Thumbnails
COP Thread-cops-wiring-resized.jpg  

Last edited by btabor; 12-06-2014 at 06:13 PM.
btabor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2014, 06:07 PM   #1727
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 613
Total Cats: 12
Default

Here is a better pic
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Doc1.pdf (92.2 KB, 107 views)
btabor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2014, 07:05 PM   #1728
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
iTrader: (5)
 
aidandj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Beaverton, USA
Posts: 17,999
Total Cats: 1,466
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by btabor View Post
Would this work for less clutter? (Bad picture, but I would solder a resistor inside the igniter connecting Blue to Blue/yellow and then jump Blue yellow to black/white)

I have MSPNP1

What I dont understand is why that schematic shows the resistor bridging blue and yellow/blue, why not just place the resistor between the yellow/blue and white black instead?
Because the resistor is to provide a pull-up voltage for the ECU to read. The yellow/blue, and white/black should be connected together to connect the tach signal from the coils to the ECU wire.
aidandj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2014, 08:04 PM   #1729
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 613
Total Cats: 12
Default

I gutted the igniter, made a harness and soldered everything today, including the resistor. Not very pretty but it works! I used 12g wire for the 12v and ground signal and 18g wire for the rest.

Set my cranking dwell to 3.5ms and running dwell at 2.5ms and the car runs well. Thanks for all the help

Attached Thumbnails
COP Thread-igniter_zpsb18ae39c.jpg  
btabor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2014, 08:27 PM   #1730
Elite Member
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 2,708
Total Cats: 269
Default

Mix up some epoxy or use electronics grade RTV and pot this lest the vibration break the resistor leads.
DNMakinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2014, 08:34 PM   #1731
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 613
Total Cats: 12
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
Mix up some epoxy or use electronics grade RTV and pot this lest the vibration break the resistor leads.
I was thinking about filling the entire thing with jb weld. Would it work?
btabor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2014, 09:20 PM   #1732
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 72,900
Total Cats: 1,793
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by btabor View Post

I was thinking about filling the entire thing with jb weld. Would it work?
Hot glue. Tape closed. Bolt back up. Forget.
Braineack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2014, 11:25 PM   #1733
Elite Member
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 2,708
Total Cats: 269
Default

Yeah, hot glue will work also, and is readily available. I would guess JB Weld is conductive.
DNMakinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2014, 11:26 PM   #1734
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 613
Total Cats: 12
Default

I'll get clear loctite epoxy. I don't have a hot glue gun. Jb weld has iron I believe
btabor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-07-2014, 11:36 PM   #1735
Elite Member
 
DNMakinson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 2,708
Total Cats: 269
Default

Inter web search shows JB Weld iron particles to be small enough that that bulk material is non-conductive. Still, I would prefer another, unfilled material. If you had stress sensitive components, then a more flexible urethane would be the normal potting choice, but epoxies are used, as well as electronic RTV, and, as Scott pointed out, hot melts.

I just didn't want you to do nothing, but it sounds like you had planned to pot.
DNMakinson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-21-2014, 08:23 PM   #1736
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 110
Total Cats: 0
Default

For the 1.6 ignitor, the circuit board is not reconnected?
cruisin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 07:43 PM   #1737
Newb
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 32
Total Cats: 3
Default

Sorry if this is already in this thread but I've scanned over the 80+ pages of it and didn't see any mention relating.

Toyota COPs installed. Called DIY and they confirmed that my Megasquirt 1 has the capacitor built in. I did not install the resistor though but my tach works fine, sort-of.
Engine idles and cruises better than with OEM coils.
Problem is when it gets into boost above 6psi the engine shuts down and tach drops to null for a split second, like I turned the key off and back on real quick. Damn neck snapper. I can't get Tuner Studio to link up so no diag via software (whole other issue I'm working on).

Is this something that the resistor would help or yall have any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help fellas.
iblameadd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 08:49 PM   #1738
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Istanbul, Turkey
Posts: 2,050
Total Cats: 433
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by iblameadd View Post
Sorry if this is already in this thread but I've scanned over the 80+ pages of it and didn't see any mention relating.

Toyota COPs installed. Called DIY and they confirmed that my Megasquirt 1 has the capacitor built in. I did not install the resistor though but my tach works fine, sort-of.
Engine idles and cruises better than with OEM coils.
Problem is when it gets into boost above 6psi the engine shuts down and tach drops to null for a split second, like I turned the key off and back on real quick. Damn neck snapper. I can't get Tuner Studio to link up so no diag via software (whole other issue I'm working on).

Is this something that the resistor would help or yall have any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help fellas.
Are you running sequential ignition?
If so, revert back to wasted spark, your problems will go away.

Also, check charging voltage when the condition you describe happens. Does the voltage spike?

You might wanna log this event to verify.
Godless Commie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2015, 10:53 PM   #1739
Newb
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 32
Total Cats: 3
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Godless Commie View Post
Are you running sequential ignition?
If so, revert back to wasted spark, your problems will go away.

Also, check charging voltage when the condition you describe happens. Does the voltage spike?

You might wanna log this event to verify.
Not running sequential. Check charging voltage? Can't log anything. No PC connect right now due to other issue.
iblameadd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2015, 02:07 AM   #1740
Newb
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Stevenage, UK
Posts: 9
Total Cats: 2
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by iblameadd View Post
Sorry if this is already in this thread but I've scanned over the 80+ pages of it and didn't see any mention relating.

Toyota COPs installed. Called DIY and they confirmed that my Megasquirt 1 has the capacitor built in. I did not install the resistor though but my tach works fine, sort-of.
Engine idles and cruises better than with OEM coils.
Problem is when it gets into boost above 6psi the engine shuts down and tach drops to null for a split second, like I turned the key off and back on real quick. Damn neck snapper. I can't get Tuner Studio to link up so no diag via software (whole other issue I'm working on).

Is this something that the resistor would help or yall have any other suggestions?
Thanks for any help fellas.
I had the same thing happen when I first went out with my turbo. Logs showed it to be the overboost protection kicking in. My turbo is only set for 7.5psi and I had overboost setting at 150kPa with 10kPa hysteresis so it would hit peak boost then stop spark for 1/2 second while MAP dropped to 140kpa then back on til peak boost then stop for 1/2 second again etc.

Worth checking. I since set my overboost to 170kPa with a 1kPa hysteresis so I can turn up the boost to 10psi gradually.

Cheers
Stot
Stot is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
OTS Bilstein to motorsports ASN conversion stoves Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 5 04-21-2016 04:00 PM
Going back to stock. Need some 1.6 parts. Trent WTB 2 10-01-2015 01:15 PM
Leaky Wilwoods mx592 Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 1 10-01-2015 01:45 AM
01-05 Fab9 PNP COPs (used) FrankB Miata parts for sale/trade 6 09-30-2015 12:48 PM


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:07 AM.