(zack morris's phone)

My map sensor is within the ms. I tee the vacuum line into the ms for my vacuum/boost gauge. Why create the extra work if you already are done.

 

Thats 6 points of failure.
- 1 at intake manifold
- 3 at the T
- 1 at the gauge
- 1 at the ECU.

I have 1 at the map sensor which is screwed into the intake manifold.
Wires are more reliable then a vacuum line, IMO. And by the Map sensor being screwed directly into the intake manifold...Could I say it is far more accurate as well???


All this being said, you're car is more reliable then mine

 

Where are you going to place the gauge at? on a pillar? We put ours in the left drivers side vent. It fit perfectly into the spherical swivel vent housing. I think most gauges would fit.

 

So I finally got some time to waste. Pulled the gauge.. check it out so far.

This is a scan of the autometer gauge and my guide.


Here it is. This will be my final gauge...once i get some damn ink. Printers suck.

 

Looky here. Sexy as hell.

Autometer gauge 30in vac to 20 psi gauge... thats what it looks like when its open.





The face plate is aluminum or some **** like that... doesnt allow light through as the reason why it uses a refracting lens which actually holds my softer faceplate in place.

The over all quality of the faceplate came out great. You cannot notice its been printed even if you take it apart and feel the material in your hand.

 

After running this gauge for a week now its clear to me the little lines between the major points are too skinny and cant be seen. I also edited the cutouts. They are exact so if u cut them at this size the holes end up too big, if u cut them too small then the white shows. This is my new model. 5 kpa lines are little bigger than above, 10kpa lines are almost as fat as the 20 kpa lines.

 

gauge #2 Also the autometer gauge is same **** on both sides so you can turn it around and glue the new face plate to the back of it. If u dont like it simply turn it around to stock.