I rode in a coworkers turbo miata. Less than a month later I bought this stock NA. It is a 1994 C-Package (Torsen!). When I bought the car I also bought an MS3 with MSX board from the seller of the car. He said he had it running on this setup but ended up buying an MSM instead.



Pretty much immediately I installed a Mishimoto radiator (I was paranoid about my green OEM radiator). I also threw on some RPF-1s I had left over from my racing days and installed a Hard Dog roll bar I picked up on Craigslist.



Next came an AEM UEGO. It still had the stock ECU at this point because I wanted to see what OEM AFRs looked like.



Now I am ready to install the MS3 but am running into some issues. I 3D printed this replacement for the OEM MAF, but I am not sure where to plug the GM IAT leads. My factory service manual shows the 5 wires coming from the MAF, but it does not show what 2 are for the IAT. I also read the MS3 hardware manual, but obviously that is not specific to Miata. Any suggestions?

 

There is a sticky about the maf wiring.

 

Whoops! I even checked the stickies before posting but could not find anything in either the DIY Turbo section or the MEGAsquirt section. Do you know where it is?

 

Well there use to be one. I just checked every subsection and can't find it. Where did it go Miataturbo?

Not the one I was looking for, but found this..

https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...am-help-77713/

 

That 3D printed MAF replacement is actually pretty sweet.

 

It is, until it deforms from the heat. Curious to see how it holds up though. If it's plain old PLA, I would expect it to get hot enough to deform from the temperatures you'll get there after stopping with a warm engine.

 

That is a nice part! Much nicer looking than my PBC pipe one. Don't know how the plastic used for 3D printing compares to PVC, but my AFM delete tube has been holding up fine.

 

Thank you! That is what I was looking to find.

 

It is one of my first ABS prints. It is supposed to get up to 95 here a couple days this week so I will be sure to do some idling and hard driving and report back here with the results!

You are right though, if it were PLA it would not hold up for long.

 

Might be worth wrapping with a heat blanket...

 

why even bother to delete the MAF? (and replace with a 3d printed pipe?) when i installed my MS2 to learn it before i went turbo, i just unplugged the MAF and drove like that for month's.

 

What you say? This is terrible advice.

 

Why its terrible advice?

The maf is a pipe with a small sensor in the middle. When going megasquirt density tune, the maf sensor is no longer needed. So unplug sensor, and keep it as a pipe only.

 

Keep an eye on it. I've run ABS 3D printed parts on my car and they are disposable maintenance items. They all had cracks within a couple track days. It looks like your part has a thicker wall then what I used but you are also closer to the header than my part was. Keep a close eye on it and print a spare to keep in your trunk if you plan on racing it.

 

I was confused. Drunk. Whatever.

 

ABS should hold up better, but it's glass-transition point is still just 105°C. Under-hood temps above that (or enough radiation heat from engine/exhaust), and it will eventually be deforming.

 

The main reason is that the MAF looks to be pretty restrictive to me. I have the means to design and print a blank with a hole in it for the IAT, so why not?

 

That is a good plan. I will print a second and throw it in the trunk just in case.

 

Ok, so why not just a super thin stainless tube, with a bung? It doesn't melt, the ID will be larger, it doesn't melt.

 

I could have done that, but the OD into the intake tube needs to be 2.7# and the OD going into the airbox needs to be a little over 3.0.

I do a lot of 3D printing and am experimenting with ABS. Some of the motivation behind making this part is so that I can see for myself how ABS performs in an engine bay.