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So i decided to try the 3psi spring. This time i set up overboost to 150kpa (~7.3psi), which i hit at 5700rpm. I'm going to back the preload off to 1 turn.
I wired up the boost solenoid so will start tuning that, I think the 3psi spring will work well for 8 with 10 as overboost protection.
Just want to make sure I have this right...
Closed loop boost, set targets and overboost protection. drive the car. adjust the PID per the manual until it works. Manual says use 0/100 for min/max duty cycle, is that what everyone does since with ms3 most don't mess with open loop first?
Also, realized I haven't posted a pic of the car in its current form.
Set overboost ~20kpa above max boost (overboost is a protection strategy against WG failure, not a crutch for crappy EBC tuning. I set it fairly high so I'm not fighting with it during PID tuning)
Tune and adjust open loop duty table until you get desired boost level (do this at night, preferably). Do this for several boost levels if you want to set up TPS-based EBC
Turn on closed loop and load open loop duty table into closed loop bias table
Tune and adjust PID until you are happy (low overshoot and low boost taper/drop at high RPM)
Set overboost ~20kpa above max boost (overboost is a protection strategy against WG failure, not a crutch for crappy EBC tuning. I set it fairly high so I'm not fighting with it during PID tuning)
Tune and adjust open loop duty table until you get desired boost level (do this at night, preferably). Do this for several boost levels if you want to set up TPS-based EBC
Turn on closed loop and load open loop duty table into closed loop bias table
Tune and adjust PID until you are happy (low overshoot and low boost taper/drop at high RPM)
Do this after setting min and max duty cycles. The algorithm can be more precise with a smaller range to work in.
Find your min and max duty cycle. I'm surprised the manual says that.
a whole bunch of driving and time
Or:
1. Sit in your garage with the engine idling, EBC valve uninstalled and out of the car
2. Adjust ECU until EBC valve reacts to DC% inputs at idle
3. Blow into the "vent" port. You should not be able to blow into it at 0%DC. Raise DC until you can just barely blow into it. Back off 2%. That's minimum DC%
4. Raise DC% to 100%. Blow into "signal" port (the port that normally goes to the WG). You should not bea ble to blow into it at 100%DC. Lower DC until you can just barely blow into it. Raise it 2%. That's maximum DC%
1. Sit in your garage with the engine idling, EBC valve uninstalled and out of the car
2. Adjust ECU until EBC valve reacts to DC% inputs at idle
3. Blow into the "vent" port. You should not be able to blow into it at 0%DC. Raise DC until you can just barely blow into it. Back off 2%. That's minimum DC%
4. Raise DC% to 100%. Blow into "signal" port (the port that normally goes to the WG). You should not bea ble to blow into it at 100%DC. Lower DC until you can just barely blow into it. Raise it 2%. That's maximum DC%
Perfect, this is what I had in mind if I needed to find the min/max.
1. Sit in your garage with the engine idling, EBC valve uninstalled and out of the car
2. Adjust ECU until EBC valve reacts to DC% inputs at idle
3. Blow into the "vent" port. You should not be able to blow into it at 0%DC. Raise DC until you can just barely blow into it. Back off 2%. That's minimum DC%
4. Raise DC% to 100%. Blow into "signal" port (the port that normally goes to the WG). You should not bea ble to blow into it at 100%DC. Lower DC until you can just barely blow into it. Raise it 2%. That's maximum DC%
Ok this is weird. I tried blowing into the vent port at Min at 0% and I could still blow through it, same with Max at 100%. Also, the "in", or the metal inlet gets extremely hot not even on the car, is this normal?
Ok this is weird. I tried blowing into the vent port at Min at 0% and I could still blow through it, same with Max at 100%. Also, the "in", or the metal inlet gets extremely hot not even on the car, is this normal?
i didn't find the blow test very beneficial. I ended up with 7min 97max. So I started driving in closed loop setup mode and found 30 to be the point where mine begins to impact the spool.
if I had to do it again I'd just drive the car and increase a few points at a time as stated above.
i didn't find the blow test very beneficial. I ended up with 7min 97max. So I started driving in closed loop setup mode and found 30 to be the point where mine begins to impact the spool.
if I had to do it again I'd just drive the car and increase a few points at a time as stated above.
Im not sure the valve is working. I mean, I already set it to all the way open and all the way closed and nothing changed so I'm not sure if driving the car and adjusting it will actually do anything.
11-10-2016, 02:34 PM
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