I seem to remember reading about using 'o-ring' seals instead of gaskets awhile back. Basically the idea was to machine a small circular grove on one of the two surfaces to be joined approximately the width of a piece of safety wire, then cut a corresponding length of safety wire and fit it into the groove.

Then join the two halves. I know it has to be more complex than this, but at the time, I saw it as a way to get better than average cylinder sealing. I wonder if the same technique can be applied for exhaust and intake manifold sealing?

Edit: I found a thread that has good pictures: http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22030

 

Sure you can oring flanges, they do it to heads, though I don't see the need considering people using no gasket/oring at all usually don't have issues if torqued appropriately.

 

If that is the case, is the reason that manufacturers use gaskets there because they can get away with less exact torque and manufacturing tolerances?

Just guessing...

 

BEGI doesn't use gaskets, other's use gasket to make up for any and all differences in flange surfaces including flatness. The problem is they burn out, even copper ones will have blow outs. Some people have great luck with them but on my kit alone i had 4 failed gaskets. The new setup will have no gaskets so it should be interesting.

 

Bout dam time Chad looks fast.

 

Haven't even installed any of the new stuff. Go look at the first post again, i added some pictures to the post of the new mani and downpipe.

 

Ouch, how things add up. Haven't made the order yet. Just got approved for Mazda Motorsports parts purchasing this morning. Might be some savings there.

 

I've always used the stuff shown on this page for making gaskets for turbo systems...

http://heating-and-cooling.hardwares...nt-256040.aspx

It's 2000 degree gasket maker and I just put a little bit of it on any of the exhaust mating surfaces and I have never had a leak once.

I got mine at Ace Hardware, one tube will last you a long time.

I stole this idea from JGS Turbo, it's what they recommend using and they sell it on their website but it's cheaper to just buy it at the hardware store.

 

Worth a try, i'm headed that way anyway. Long as it's not a $20 product i'll see what it can do.

 

the valve cover gasket you listed is for a 1.6

 

Man i suck at life. You get my PM?
Fixed the order.

 

duh chad B6 is me not you i never said you installed it just that it is about time you did something If it takes me getting adicted to WoW to help you move along then so be it

 

Also, you probably want to spend the extra $$ on the gates racing belt so you don't have to think about the tb job again for 100k. Might want to replace the other belts while you're at it (with oem type).

 

I've always had GREAT luck with a high temp gasket material I picked up at NAPA. It's a perforated metal core covered in graphite, and works extremely well as long as it is sealing. I've made my turbine exit gaskets, my turbine inlet gasket, and my wastegate gasket with this material. If I had a better way to cut the ****, I would have made a head/exhaust manifold gasket.

I have also had great luck with what appeared to be a pressed paper type gasket. It was given to me by a machinist to make my first turbine exit gasket. He had used this material to make a headgasket for an old generator, and it has held up for years.

 

Where do you suggest I buy the Gates belt? I just called the local Napa, they said Gates makes all their belts. $53.49 for the belt from them, or $147.39 for the belt tensioner, spring, and idler pulley.
Or just the belt from here if it's not the same thing:
http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?N=...4294967267+787

Unless mazcomp has them hidden somewhere.

 

No--you want the blue gates racing belt. Miataroadster carries them, but his site is f'd up right now. Call Bill 888-88-miata

this one that's in Brian's (Tom's) motor
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/gouldmab...%20(Large).JPG

 

I heard the Gates Racing Belt was super loud compared to OEM style belts. Any insight or truth to this?

 

loud?

 

Is it even worth it? I'll probably be tearing the head apart in the next 2 years for port work or cam's or something like that. I think i'll stick with the cheap OEM one and call it good. I don't need that baller blue belt, though it would match my VC.

 

best thing ever!!!!!
i am using it and it is perfect and the price is damn cheap. will work 100%