Saved for future ref.

 

Shortly before i was in ATL, maybe a month prior, didn't have to do anything to it, it appeared of decent quality

 

maybe you got one of the last Jap pumps

 

That does not sound good!
For my motor that I'm getting ready to build i had decided to get new everything (wp, tb kit, oil pump, seals, bearings, etc.), if there is a problem with the new WP's i may just re-use my old one, it is only about 7K miles old.
Where did you get your WP from?

 

I replaced my water pump in 2005, have put prolly 40k on it since.

Best friends car put 112,000 on mazda pump replaced in 2006.

 

Album Updated
Had to cut 0.5" off the studs provided with the BEGI manifold, they interfered with the downpipe flange of the turbo. They were simply too tall so I took the dremel cut-off wheel to them.
Also made a EGR tube blockoff plate. You can see the old solution where the tube was cut, crimped and brazed shut. I decided to finally make the plate because I will need the tube out of the way for the coolant reroute. After cutting and drilling the plate I flattened one side with a 1/4" piece of glass and 200 grit sandpaper.

 

Thank god you cut those manifold studs... looked like A/M wheel studs on a racer. Must be nice going to a mani that will never ever crack.

 

The worst part about WP's are the gaskets. Some are cheap paper and others are better OEM type (metal).

 

The timing belt and waterpump swap went great from what I can tell thus far. I still have alot to do concerning the coolant reroute and godspeed radiator install.
I also decided to build my own downpipe and exhaust and I'm returning the BEGI downpipe because of fitment issues.
Ordered tubing today, hopefully get it by the end of the week if not i'll be fabing things up next week.

 

Downpipe is done and half installed.
Keep in mind this is my first downpipe and my first time tig welding anything and definitely my first time doing anything with stainless. Its been a real treat doing something like this.






This one shows the use of nordlocks.



This shows how my oil drain is different. Its placed further back and there is a turbo drain flange bolted to the oil pan.

 

what no remote wastegate?!

 

**** yea man! The DP looks great!

Vash-

 

Oh yeah, the flanges are mild, O2 bungs are 304, all of the tubing except the piece before and after the flex is stainless as well. The tubing connected to the flex is aluminized. I ran out of stainless.

 

Got the car running tonight, only running wastegate pressure at 7 psi but its good to have boost back.
I'm running open downpipe and its loud as all #*@k so I feel like an idiot driving around town. Everyone wants to race, kind of ridiculous. Anyway, its all good thus far with no leaks it appears.

 

What made you change to T3 is it a lot more noticeably laggy compared to the T25?
Also a quick question on your DP when building one is flexi a must ?

 

I went with the T3 because I wanted a turbo capable of 300 rwhp instead of 220 hp.
A flex section is not required but when using stainless especially I recommend one. The rubber exhaust hangers will move alot with the engine so you really don't have to have one. I just wanted to lengthen the life of my downpipe as much as possible.

 

New setup including godspeed radiator with 12" slim fans. BEGI T3 manifold, T3 50 trim, Tial 38mm WG, downpipe by me.



My huge air filter.


Three fingers of clearance between the sway bar and slim fans compared to no room with the stock fans.





Album shown here http://picasaweb.google.com/cjernigan/T3TurboSwap

 

Looks good man, and mad props on that downpipe! I'm jealous.....I wish I was done and driving around....

Vash-

 

Hey Chad,
2 questions:

1. Do you recommend I source Nord-Locks for my Begi-S kit? Am I likely to see issues with that manifold?

2. Are there any issues with where you chose to tap the oil return? It's different than where most folks seem to tap. Any advantages on a 1.6 for going your route?

Your new setup looks sweet!

Thanks,
Jim

 

1. You can get them from your local Fastenal or you can order straight from nordlock I believe or maybe even ebay. You might have to mix and match nuts to fit on the cast iron manifold. Some of the nut reliefs are not large enough for oversize wrench flat nuts.

2. I bought my car turbo charged but hated the turbo setup that came on it. This is what I have replaced my old setup with. The previous owner pulled the motor and rebuilt it. At the same time they installed a flange on the oil pan. You cannot drill and tap that location with the engine in the car.
I recommend using the location that everyone and their brother uses.