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I needed all the room I could create to fit everything, and I had trouble routing the intake piping from the air cleaner to the turbo.
Plus, the recirculating BOV would have to be plumbed into that piping, as well.
The solution was not simple.
I had the radiator re-cored. (It had a couple leaks, anyway) It had a 32 Cm core, new core is 30 Cm tall.
2 Cm difference meant a lot.
The fans still fit perfectly.
Last edited by Godless Commie; 12-19-2018 at 08:59 PM.
The now shorter radiator presented a problem:
The upper radiator shield no longer fit properly.
I just had to make a new one.
A dead battery makes an excellent dead weight while cutting metal.
My tool may not be shielded, but I wear goggles (and a face shield if I am not smoking at the time)
I may or may not paint it black, haven't decided yet.
Meanwhile, the fact that the wastegate was sitting too close to the turbine housing made me pretty uncomfortable.
I know it is a "hot" component, but there's no point in cooking the thing..
I made a nice insulated heat shield for it, and then plumbed cooling lines per @TurboTim's suggestion.
You can barely see the heat shield under the WG in this photo..
Took the car out, cleaned and washed the vacant engine bay before I repainted all the scratched surfaces.
All that trial fit, installing and removing the turbo, DP and whatnot took its toll in there.
Edit:
I found an after photo:
Last edited by Godless Commie; 12-19-2018 at 11:58 AM.
The downpipe runs pretty close to the gearbox.
I wanted to protect that from the heat, too, so I came up with this:
I used this really cool, closed cell insulation stuff I had in the garage.
It's a peel and stick type sheet insulation that can take some pretty high temps.
Using 0.30 mm aluminum on the sticky side gave me extra weather protection, and a really shiny surface to reflect heat.
I riveted some straps, cut a couple of large clamps, and wrapped it around the gearbox.
Worked like a charm
I removed the engine, tore it apart, and ran to the machine shop with it.
Turns out, it was a minor blessing in disguise. We discovered scratches on the crank and decided to machine it.
Which meant sourcing .25 over bearings with short notice, among other parts.
Here are the offending wrist pin bushings..
And the crank, waiting to be machined...
I was pretty lucky.
The machine shop had the proper bushings on hand.
I was able to find OEM bearings locally.
Looked like we would not be able to find rings, and a custom fabricator agreed to make them. The catch was, their rings would be 1.2 mm thick. Je pistons use 1.00 mm rings.
I called JE, they told me it would not be a problem at all to enlarge the ring grooves by 0.2 mm. Placed the order, and custom rings were made.
I got the necessary gaskets and stuff from Mazda, they gave me an excellent deal...
Last edited by Godless Commie; 12-19-2018 at 12:49 PM.
Well, turns out they gave me the wrong pan gasket...
This is what happened as soon as I was done torquing the pan bolts:
To be fair, they were very understanding.
Parts manager apologized and exchanged that now mangled gasket with a new one.
Rest of the engine build went pretty uneventful.
Somber, but uneventful nonetheless.
I had a metric ton of electrical work to do while the engine was at the machine shop..
All the new solenoids had to be wired in, all defunct wiring had to be cleaned up.
Yes, ECU location is under the passenger floor mat in European NBs.
Frankly, I had an embarrassing mess down there. I had installed and removed countless pieces of gizmos over the years, and never seemed to have the time to properly remove their associated wiring when I uninstalled them.
I had bundles of wires going nowhere...
Working methodically, I did a thorough cleaning, installed new wiring, and took detailed notes this time.
I also bought about 10 pairs of various weatherproof plugs with pigtails, and made all additions/extensions to the ECU much easier to deal with.
This is about a week's work.
Not pictured is a massive bundle of wire, sheathing and funky connectors which just acted as ballast in the car.
Proceeded to make a new cold air chamber for the air filter.
Had this brilliant idea to install my EBC solenoid, relay for the vacuum pump, and the second MAP sensor in there, too.
(more on that "second MAP sensor" later)
Yes, definitely want to put EBC solenoid in the cold air box. Some day I'll get around to building one. I like the way you enclosed the top of yours. It's not like the filter needs servicing a lot.
Jelly that you don't have to fight the ECU located between brake and clutch like USA.
Again, on an unrelated note, this is how I do maintenance on the water injection nozzles...
I remove them maybe two - three times a year, and give them a good ultrasonic cleaning. This ensures clog free operation.
I had a nozzle clog on me in the past, and the car acts very funny because a clogged nozzle just drips and causes very strange low rpm / tip in hesitation.
It was a good time to clean them before the engine went in the car.
I have never heard of an optocoupler. Looks like the relay stuffs I've been using for arduino things. Maybe the chinese call it a relay so people like me know it's function.
How do you retighten the nuts inside Sputnik when they get loose? Or did you just tighten them a lot and loctite them?
An optical sensor detects the presence of voltage on a circuit and closes the circuit on a separate one to trigger a relay.
The relay could be fed by a third circuit to make this scenario even more ridiculous..
As for the nipples on the canister, they have 1/8 NPT thread.
I have never had conical threads go loose on me before. You tighten them, and they stay that way.
Oh, I made sure they were TIGHT.
Even though I was going to have a large hood vent right above the hot parts, I still wanted to protect the master cylinders and electrical parts.
I have all my control solenoids, and the stepper motor for my active suspension system there.
A heat shield needed to be designed and made, but there was an unexpected obstacle...
See that brake line coming from the master cylinder?
Damn thing was protruding too much.
(The photo is misleading, because I was not right above the brake line when I took it.)
It was occupying the same plane with the wastegate to DP connection.
I removed the brake line, put in a piece of sturdy copper wire to figure out the best shape and minimum bends that would give me enough room.
No dice...
There was no way a brake line could be bent that close to the nut.
I said the hell with it, and had a flexible line made with banjo fittings.
I mean, brake fluid is dumb. It can't tell a flexible line from a steel pipe, right?
Look carefully, you can see it coming out of the front of the MC.
I win. period.
There's even an anti-rattle device on the heat shield.
Or, I just stuck a piece of insulation on the aluminum to keep it from buzzing.
12-19-2018, 11:03 AM
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