How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info. - Page 5 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 07-23-2013, 10:57 PM   #81
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

You are right, its a lot of work for what it is, however Id gladly make the manifold and downpipe and crossover for 700, which is essentially what Im doing for that 700.

In this case Im throwing the install and half an hour street tune in for free.

The reality is that the main reason I'm enjoying doing this is that it helps a lot of people get a lot more comfortable with basic turbo systems, and shows my work off to a LOT of viewers, so its not a cut and dry cheap labour job.

Ive said to the aussies that I would take this job on for an na6 if they supplied a T25/28, for the same price.
So that puts me ahead enough for it to be worth it, Im only 23, doing this for a living is new to me so its still a startup really, and Im just focusing on taking the work as it comes and paying for the stuff my workshop still needs. This job will pay a couple of weeks rent on the workshop and this guy is an excellent returning customer.

Read that how you will, but yes, its probably a bit cheap.

Dann
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2013, 11:07 PM   #82
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 1,196
Total Cats: 12
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrodann View Post
You are right, its a lot of work for what it is, however Id gladly make the manifold and downpipe and crossover for 700, which is essentially what Im doing for that 700.

In this case Im throwing the install and half an hour street tune in for free.

The reality is that the main reason I'm enjoying doing this is that it helps a lot of people get a lot more comfortable with basic turbo systems, and shows my work off to a LOT of viewers, so its not a cut and dry cheap labour job.

Ive said to the aussies that I would take this job on for an na6 if they supplied a T25/28, for the same price.
So that puts me ahead enough for it to be worth it, Im only 23, doing this for a living is new to me so its still a startup really, and Im just focusing on taking the work as it comes and paying for the stuff my workshop still needs. This job will pay a couple of weeks rent on the workshop and this guy is an excellent returning customer.

Read that how you will, but yes, its probably a bit cheap.

Dann


It takes a village.... Kudos for helping others.
2ndGearRubber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2013, 11:57 PM   #83
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

updates.

This is the o2 bung, where the wideband screws in for tuning and monitoring. This is before the cat but at least a foot preferably 2 after the turbo, the heat will kill it if its too close.


And the AIT (air intake temp) bung. The megasquirt ditches the factory airflow meter and instead uses manifold air pressure (MAP) and AIT along with the tuning tables to determine load and fueling, so it needs the AIT screwed in here. This goes after the intercooler, and somewhere that wont heatsoak (so not in the inlet manifold.)


Just faced these flanges on a fine linisher with a brand new belt, I ran the tap through 1 more time to ensure its nice and clean.


This is a grade 12.9 High tensile Steel bolt, 10x1.5mm thread size. Im cutting the threads off it, to use as turbo studs. the small bottle is Resbond, which is like loctite but for turbo temperatures. This will hold the studs in the manifold. Loctite releases with heat so will not work here. Please note that most turbos need to be drilled to fit the bigger 10mm studs (stock is usually 8mm) AND note that these will NOT work on a track car, the heat will soften them and they will stretch you MUST use Inconel and locking hardware in a track car.


Im threading them in using the double nut method. this is 2 nuts tightened into each other so secure them to the thread and then wound in with the top nut.


Use proper exhaust nuts, flanged and serated flanges.


The wastegate solution. Since this turbo has been clocked the wastegate canister will no longer fit, so in this case I've welded the wastegate can to this exhaust clamp and will clapm it to the front of the turbo. Wastegate cans must be fixed very solidly for good boost control so make sure its very stiff.


This is the wastegat can rod and the wastegate lever arm. Note that wastegate rod naturally doesnt quite make it onto the arm, this means when I stretch it on there will be a millimetre or 2 preload, this is important to ensure the wastegate flapper inside seals properly when closed.


Here it is on. Note that it needs a small E clip to secure it.


How it sits on the turbo.


And with a small temporary air filter.


Dann
Attached Thumbnails
How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_140458.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_142305.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_170807.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_173302.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_173544.jpg  

How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_174145.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_175908.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_180030.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_180035.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_180046.jpg  

How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_180435.jpg  
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 09:42 AM   #84
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

Ive fitted the wastegate actuator can, and need to test. Im using the shop air compressor, be sure to unplug the air compressor and bleed it down to a sensible turbo level of pressure, I used 20psi.

Into the actuator can we blow some air and check a good range of motion, and smooth operation of the wastegate.







Dann
Attached Thumbnails
How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_180729.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_180735.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_180738.jpg  
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 09:42 AM   #85
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,093
Total Cats: 90
Default

Why not run the OEM RX7TT studs? They only cost a couple dollars more than those bolts you cut up and are inconel and 10mm. Or run the OEM 300ZX studs which are inconel and 8mm.
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 09:43 AM   #86
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

A quick note on the return fitting, you can see the internal angled surfaces it seals with, I will however use some RTV as shown.



And the completed hotside in all its tiny weenie zero lag low hp high torque glory lol




Dann
Attached Thumbnails
How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_180921.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_181607.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_181612.jpg  
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 09:49 AM   #87
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

Its very dark but dead centre you can see the oil return hose fitted to the return barb in the sump and clamped, dead centre.



This plug on the back of the head with a 5mm hex head is what we will use to feed the turbo.


Here is a nice cheap hardline made at a local brake shop for 30 bucks. Ive bent it for a trial fit already. Next to the screwdriver is the plug we just removed, its 1/8th gas threaded, which is a tapered thread.
The top end of the hardline has the fitting for the turbo, and the opposite end has a fitting that threads into the 1/8th gas adaptor, next to it. the adaptor goes into the head first, and then the rest screws on.


Here is the adaptor fitted.


And the whole lot fitted up, with its temporary air filter.


Dann
Attached Thumbnails
How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_185435.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_190529.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_190539.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_190655.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130723_191617.jpg  

nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 10:09 AM   #88
Murderator
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 36,207
Total Cats: 2,587
Default

I still love how you do that feed hardline, and hope I can figure something similar out to fit to my vvt engine/setup
18psi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 10:14 AM   #89
Elite Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Leafy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NH
Posts: 9,093
Total Cats: 90
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
I still love how you do that feed hardline, and hope I can figure something similar out to fit to my vvt engine/setup
You dont want to copy mine/abe's? No, dan's way is way cleaner.

Do we know what size that port is? 1/8BSPT?
Leafy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 10:16 AM   #90
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

It says in the above post, its 8th gas.

Just go to a brake shop with the turbo and a length and tell them the other end has to end up 8th gas

Cheers,
Dann
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 10:24 AM   #91
Murderator
iTrader: (76)
 
18psi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 36,207
Total Cats: 2,587
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
You dont want to copy mine/abe's? No, dan's way is way cleaner.

Do we know what size that port is? 1/8BSPT?
Pretty sure I liked abes a lot too, and pretty sure his is similar to this. I forget what yours looks like, but if its a hardline I like it too lol

I'm not sure our vvt heads have that port like that, but I was thinking of tapping into the vvt feed line. Will have to figure something out. I have a ton of braided stainless lines as well as steel and alum hardlines sitting around so might have to experiment a little bit.

Sorry for threadjack,

Back on topic: its coming together pretty clean. when is the dyno? And will you hit up a dynojet this time?
18psi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2013, 10:52 AM   #92
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

Im giving it back with a very pansy street tune, so when the owner gets around to it.

Ill get a sheet and post it up but it will be in a while.

Dann
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-30-2013, 10:13 AM   #93
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

So this is it, the end of the '2K Turbo NA' build.

The final steps are straight forward. And the owner has recieved it.

Ive refitted the heater hoses, and here Ive used a little heat proofing for insurance.


The megasquirt instructions have all of these steps, but here they are, fit the vacuum tube through the firewall.


Here is where it goes on the TB, this has a little blocker from the factory.


The AIT sensor gets plugged in here, the loop joining the last 2 arent needed on new megasquirts as I found out (didnt trust the instructions lol, I was wrong.)


Here is the sensor on the pipe.


Remove the ECU cover on the passenger side, this rust is OEM, dont believe me, check your NA haha.


Heres the oem ecu.


Unplug it.


Replace with MS.


Add the serial cable for porting and hook the other end of that vacuum tube to it also.


Worst photo sorry, but here it is all finished.



From here hook up a wideband and street tune as I did or take it to a dyno. This will get tuned at IS Motorsport In Sydney in the next couple of weeks it seems, so we will know for sure exactly how it performs.

This boosts from 1200rpm, with no lag at all.

None.

Zero.

Period.

It feels like a 5L swap or something cruising around in it. Just non stop torque. 7psi at 1500rpm torque. Just a wall of nonstop torque.

If you cruise at 60 in 5th and hit a bump and your foot moves, guess what, 5psi haha.

I hope this helps some people and makes a lot more people comfortable.
It was easy to tune to be safe and still make good power. It runs great, very smooth. No issues without the BOV at all, and no pinging, because it simply has a conservative spark map.

The owner will give me a review in the next couple of days after having it for a bit and Ill post it up.


Dann
Attached Thumbnails
How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_140141.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_162200.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_162240.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_162302.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_162306.jpg  

How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_162844.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_162923.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_163155.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_163432.jpg   How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_163913.jpg  

How to Turbocharge your NA for 2k, build with TONNES of pics and info.-20130726_172734.jpg  
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 05:32 PM   #94
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Signal Hill, CA
Posts: 246
Total Cats: 11
Default

Thanks for such a well documented build!

What would you say the distant is from the head to the turbo? I'm going to venture out, and try and make my own manifold, and I would like to try to minimize build errors lol. I'll be designing it in solidworks.
.one lane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 06:05 PM   #95
Senior Member
iTrader: (15)
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 1,405
Total Cats: 263
Default

You might want to add some supports to that oil feed line. It will crack with engine vibration.
99mx5 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2013, 11:03 PM   #96
Junior Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 58
Total Cats: 0
Default

awesome build!
lieske is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2013, 06:41 PM   #97
Newb
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 0
Default

What did you do for the coolant to the turbo? Unless this is an oil cooled turbo and I completely missed that part...
csibbs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2013, 10:03 PM   #98
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

Oil cooled only.

Dann
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2013, 05:29 PM   #99
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ellicott City, MD
Posts: 458
Total Cats: 6
Default

Honestly it would be very easy and cheap to put water to it on a 1.6.

Good build.
MicaCeli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2014, 06:26 AM   #100
Elite Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 2,640
Total Cats: 25
Default

So I fitted a FMIC, rx8 yellows, turned it to 14psi, and made 170rwhp.

Ill get pics up.

Dann
nitrodann is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Noob from Orlando Marcdasharq Meet and Greet 2 09-11-2015 01:21 AM
Noob here, turbo NC project starts now. turboLuigi Meet and Greet 2 09-04-2015 02:29 PM
1.8L DIY Turbo Set-up with BorgWarner EFR-6258 derber DIY Turbo Discussion 51 06-30-2011 07:36 AM
1996 Mazda Miata MX5 - $5000 OBO clay Cars for sale/trade 5 11-01-2010 09:56 AM
Spooling A Turbocharger patsmx5 General Miata Chat 15 04-12-2008 01:27 AM


Tags
penal problems

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:46 PM.