How the wire a volt/AF gauge I got
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Ok, for the input ill use the wire from the LC-1. What should the input ground be? Just run a wire and ground it to the chassis?
Where should I get the 12V source from? And how should I ground that?
Ok, for the input ill use the wire from the LC-1. What should the input ground be? Just run a wire and ground it to the chassis?
Where should I get the 12V source from? And how should I ground that?
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
If you have a seven-wire LC1, connect the voltmeter's signal ground to the LC1's green (analog ground) wire. If you have the six-wire version, connect it to the same ground point as the LC1's white (system ground) wire.
You should pull the meter's +12 and primary ground to the same places as the LC1's red (+12) and white (system ground) wires.
You should pull the meter's +12 and primary ground to the same places as the LC1's red (+12) and white (system ground) wires.
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If you have a seven-wire LC1, connect the voltmeter's signal ground to the LC1's green (analog ground) wire. If you have the six-wire version, connect it to the same ground point as the LC1's white (system ground) wire.
You should pull the meter's +12 and primary ground to the same places as the LC1's red (+12) and white (system ground) wires.
You should pull the meter's +12 and primary ground to the same places as the LC1's red (+12) and white (system ground) wires.
That's what it does. You set it so that 0=10:1 5v=20:1 and it will display the numerical value. Might have the decimal in the wrong place but sometimes you can change that too.
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Most WBO2 sensors are configurable, however the most common output mode is 0 to 5v. This is the default on the AEM and on Output 2 of the LC1 (output 1 being defaulted to NB emulation)
However I like your thinking. If you change the configuration to 10 = 1v and 20 = 2v then although you lose some resolution, the meter will display actual AFR (albeit with the decimal point in the wrong place)
RTM.
However I like your thinking. If you change the configuration to 10 = 1v and 20 = 2v then although you lose some resolution, the meter will display actual AFR (albeit with the decimal point in the wrong place)
RTM.
that was *my* thinking, thank you very much. I also told him to get a voltmeter with adjustable decimal point (and even gave him a good ebay link), but he went with a different meter
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From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
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