I should have gotten a 97
#1
I should have gotten a 97
So I have a 99 and I want to start off with a begi s kit. From what I understand it's a lot more difficult to do on an nb vs. na. Suppose I get the kit from begi, what else is required to run safely at 6psi?
I keep reading about returnless fuel systems and timing issues with the stock ecu,etc...
Thanks!
Flounder.
I keep reading about returnless fuel systems and timing issues with the stock ecu,etc...
Thanks!
Flounder.
#7
The '99 is arguably the best platform to start with. It was the last year of the "stripper"... ie, no power nuthin', which means less weight, and it's got the best flowing head. If you can find a "sport", clean examples with 100k miles are $5k.
Flounder, you do not want to mess with converting a '99 to returnless. Forget that option. The easiest way to get the fuel you need is an FM Voodoo box. It's arguable the simplest way to fuel 5-6psi... but you still need to work a timing solution, and that's not so easy on '99+. For the '99+ cars, if you're serious about this thing, is to get a full function piggyback or standalone. The Adaptronic ECU has enjoyed great success around here and is a great bargain. Some guys have Megasquirt working like a top on their '99+ cars, but for a true PnP piece-of-cake, it's still kinda experimental for the non-geek type. You can always go with the FM Hydra ECU at $2k.
So, to do 6psi correctly, buying new parts (almost), you need the following:
'99-05 Begi-S Turbo System= $1975
Adaptronic ECU= $762
Used Cleaned and Flowed RX7 460cc injectors (or another compatible injector in that sizerange... see the FAQ)= +/- $150
Of course, 6psi will feel just fine for about a week, and then you'll wonder what 10psi feels like. It's just an intercooler away. After the IC and psi bump... you realize that 460's can max out your GT2554r at around 14psi and 240whp... which is feelin' kinda slow. So how much do a set of 550's cost... and how much is a used GT2560??? Hell, you might be at 15psi and 280whp inside of a year. Imagine if you did an exhintake swap and threw in a pair of adjustable camgears and picked up a ****-ton of spool and 15whp on the topend for $250??? What then???
What then is your stock 195series tires were useless 150whp ago and you're into 225rubber and 6UL's for $1k... but you look like you can take stock C6's in a straight line and you almost can. Don't forget the crap stock coolant flow and pick up a Coolant Reroute kit or make your own... and I hope you've already installed a rollbar before you even think about a turbo kit.
LATER!
Flounder, you do not want to mess with converting a '99 to returnless. Forget that option. The easiest way to get the fuel you need is an FM Voodoo box. It's arguable the simplest way to fuel 5-6psi... but you still need to work a timing solution, and that's not so easy on '99+. For the '99+ cars, if you're serious about this thing, is to get a full function piggyback or standalone. The Adaptronic ECU has enjoyed great success around here and is a great bargain. Some guys have Megasquirt working like a top on their '99+ cars, but for a true PnP piece-of-cake, it's still kinda experimental for the non-geek type. You can always go with the FM Hydra ECU at $2k.
So, to do 6psi correctly, buying new parts (almost), you need the following:
'99-05 Begi-S Turbo System= $1975
Adaptronic ECU= $762
Used Cleaned and Flowed RX7 460cc injectors (or another compatible injector in that sizerange... see the FAQ)= +/- $150
Of course, 6psi will feel just fine for about a week, and then you'll wonder what 10psi feels like. It's just an intercooler away. After the IC and psi bump... you realize that 460's can max out your GT2554r at around 14psi and 240whp... which is feelin' kinda slow. So how much do a set of 550's cost... and how much is a used GT2560??? Hell, you might be at 15psi and 280whp inside of a year. Imagine if you did an exhintake swap and threw in a pair of adjustable camgears and picked up a ****-ton of spool and 15whp on the topend for $250??? What then???
What then is your stock 195series tires were useless 150whp ago and you're into 225rubber and 6UL's for $1k... but you look like you can take stock C6's in a straight line and you almost can. Don't forget the crap stock coolant flow and pick up a Coolant Reroute kit or make your own... and I hope you've already installed a rollbar before you even think about a turbo kit.
LATER!
#8
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 3,468
Total Cats: 365
Begi S kit is nice. 6psi will make a big difference in your vehicle. It has in mine!
You can then upgrade to Bell's Skit intercooler upgrade, or run a generic intercooler if you wish. Track Dog Racing has some really nice intercooler kits that, while somewhat pricy, are more than just an intercooler and tubing. TDR gives you ducting as well. Sealing the airflow path so that it has to pass through all of the heat exchangers has proven to be as effective (or more) as a bigass aluminum radiator. TDR's intercooler kits also have the advantage of not having any of the charge tubing run through the wheel wells. No need to trim or cut the fender liners or the undertray. The undertray has been shown to aid in cooling as well as keeping crap out of the engine bay.
A couple of piggyback options not yet mentioned are the AEM FIC, and the XEDE. Both will maintain OBD-II emissions compatibility if that's a concern.
The intake cam from the MSM will slap right into your head.
You can then upgrade to Bell's Skit intercooler upgrade, or run a generic intercooler if you wish. Track Dog Racing has some really nice intercooler kits that, while somewhat pricy, are more than just an intercooler and tubing. TDR gives you ducting as well. Sealing the airflow path so that it has to pass through all of the heat exchangers has proven to be as effective (or more) as a bigass aluminum radiator. TDR's intercooler kits also have the advantage of not having any of the charge tubing run through the wheel wells. No need to trim or cut the fender liners or the undertray. The undertray has been shown to aid in cooling as well as keeping crap out of the engine bay.
A couple of piggyback options not yet mentioned are the AEM FIC, and the XEDE. Both will maintain OBD-II emissions compatibility if that's a concern.
The intake cam from the MSM will slap right into your head.
#9
Small detail here, but the compressor outlet tube running thru the fender well (no cutting required) takes out about 30F when operating at 8 psi boost. The 30F results in about 7F less by the time it all reaches the intake manifold. 7F is equivalent to about
.50 psi of boost.
Corky
had to measure it a dozen times to believe it.
.50 psi of boost.
Corky
had to measure it a dozen times to believe it.
#10
Thank you!
I had a budget of $3k but after the valve job and new rings i'm down to about $2500, at least initially.
I had planned on getting a shanghai s kit, ebay IC and voodoo box but was wondering if I could get by with just an adjustable regulator for now, or do you still need the voodoo?
What makes timing so difficult on the 99?
I had a budget of $3k but after the valve job and new rings i'm down to about $2500, at least initially.
I had planned on getting a shanghai s kit, ebay IC and voodoo box but was wondering if I could get by with just an adjustable regulator for now, or do you still need the voodoo?
What makes timing so difficult on the 99?
#11
Elite Member
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Hermosa Beach, CA
Posts: 2,573
Total Cats: 12
I would also recommend checking out this site so you can learn some more..
Miata Turbo FAQ: Welcome to the Miata Turbo FAQ
Miata Turbo FAQ: Welcome to the Miata Turbo FAQ