If you were going to build an NC turbo...
09-10-2008, 12:29 AM
#22
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No prht. Front damage, nothing major. 1.5 k in parts, couple hours in the paint booth for rent and we have lift off. Ebay is awesome for parts, even really new ****. I'll take a brand new miata for under 12k paid for any day.
Well you have to be able to do the work yourself, or at least alot of it. Still though out the door a new one is 24-27.
Well you have to be able to do the work yourself, or at least alot of it. Still though out the door a new one is 24-27.
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09-10-2008, 12:34 AM
#23
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No prht. Front damage, nothing major. 1.5 k in parts, couple hours in the paint booth for rent and we have lift off. Ebay is awesome for parts, even really new ****. I'll take a brand new miata for under 12k paid for any day.
Well you have to be able to do the work yourself, or at least alot of it. Still though out the door a new one is 24-27.
Well you have to be able to do the work yourself, or at least alot of it. Still though out the door a new one is 24-27.
Working on boxing your stuff up as we speak by the way.
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09-10-2008, 09:40 AM
#26
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I am, I used to work for Mazda so I have alot of hook-ups on things. A little work for one of my parts guys and i got a free bags. I had to buy the controller though.
I usually just flip them but this one I kind of like. I could have lived with out the manumatic though. I figure i'll keep it til they give it a facelift in 2010.
I usually just flip them but this one I kind of like. I could have lived with out the manumatic though. I figure i'll keep it til they give it a facelift in 2010.
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09-10-2008, 03:39 PM
#28
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Well the thing is, once you get it fixed as long as the title isn't salvage, you could trade/sell it and get a manual one. The manumatic ones are more expensive iirc anyways.
Or get an rx8.
Or get an rx8.
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09-10-2008, 04:52 PM
#29
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Well I did some rough calculations, and at around 240 hp (sorta random guess) with the turbo, you would be looking for a pressure ratio of around 2.2 with 28 ish lb/min of flow.
A compressor map from a gt2871R seems to fit perfect
Hope that helps
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09-11-2008, 12:56 AM
#30
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No clue. I'll throw a mini broom and dustpan in the trunk though just in case.
I'll wait til 10 when they give it a facelift.
Helps tremendously as soon as I translate it to noob english lol.
What flange is gt2871R?
Helps tremendously as soon as I translate it to noob english lol.
What flange is gt2871R?
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09-11-2008, 01:42 AM
#31
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The size of the housings and wheels.
These pages are your friend:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...gt_basics.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ochargers.html
The "R" suffix denotes a ball-bearing center. The "S" is a semi-meaningless differentiator between sub-models of the same turbo.
These pages are your friend:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...gt_basics.html
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ochargers.html
The "R" suffix denotes a ball-bearing center. The "S" is a semi-meaningless differentiator between sub-models of the same turbo.
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09-11-2008, 10:37 AM
#32
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http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT
The turbo can have a T25 or T3 flange... I would get a .63 a/r on the exhaust side.
If your planning on like upwards of 350 hp, you might want to consider a gt30... What are you aiming for anyway? How well built is the NC engine?
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