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Old 05-13-2014, 01:54 AM   #1
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Default Intercooler question about 2.25 vs 2.5 end tubes restriction because I don't read

I ordered an IC some time ago, and found it has 2.25 inlets vs my FM 2.5" hose. I must have ordered it in haste, and was so concerned about length and girth that I didn't read the inlet diameter was 2.25 not 2.5. I can run it with some 2.25 hose sections slipped over as a adapter/bushing or sell it for one with the 2.5 inlets. Is this going to be worthy of whining over or should I just run it? I have a disco tater with a welded on outlet of 2 FYI and will be going up to 20psi and or 300hp.
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:09 AM   #2
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are you using the silicone FM piping?

I have a begi #3 intercooler and went through this same internal debate. I opted to keep the intercooler for it's superior core design compared to the vibrant alternatives supplying a 2.5" in/outlet. Just grabbed a 2"->2.25" 90 reducer and 2" coupler; trimming the 2.5" inlet on the hot side after the elbow.

For the cold side I got a 2.25"->2.5" reducer and bolted it straight to the intercooler to a small 2.5" coupler welded with an IAT bung. This was a bit longer, about 4 inches and required the FM silicone piping to be trimmed accordingly.

Parts I used:
Tube Reducer

Reducer Elbow

Intercooler Pipe Fabrication


Then just build something like this:
IAT Sensor Adapter Tube
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:19 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrew View Post
I can run it with some 2.25 hose sections slipped over as a adapter/bushing...

this; move on with life.
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Old 05-13-2014, 10:34 AM   #4
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search for my thread where we had a lengthy discussion about exactly this
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Old 05-13-2014, 02:02 PM   #5
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Thanks guys, saved me some time and money.

Discussion over, running the one I have with 2.25" end tubes.
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:08 PM   #6
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2.25 TO 2.5 INCH ADAPTER, SHORT PIECE OF 2.5 INCH TUBE.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:03 PM   #7
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why? his doubled-up coupler will suffice and hold all of the boost.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:10 PM   #8
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I doubt it will hold the 30psi he wants to run.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:15 PM   #9
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you would doubt it.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:21 PM   #10
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bro,
I run a coupler on my coupler so I can leak while I leak
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:40 PM   #11
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20-30 psi is a lot of boost relative to most applications, but in the grand scheme of things 20psi is low pressure. Good couplers with decent quality hose clamps (not even T-Bolts) will hold 20psi just fine, provided they have a good surface to clamp down on and are not being asked to flex too much. A flare on the pipe makes a huge difference.
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Old 05-14-2014, 01:49 AM   #12
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Double clamps over the space of 1.4 inches of extra coupler at 20 psi should be fine.
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Old 05-14-2014, 09:42 AM   #13
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It's the two clamp people that spend months and months and months taking apart their car part by part, cleaning off pointless parts that will only get dirty after the first drive, spray paint alternator cages, and then once finished, can't drive the car because they spent exactly 5 minutes trying to get the ECU in order and not focusing on the important things...
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:16 AM   #14
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That's a good idea to paint the alternator cage. Actually powder coating it will be more durable, I'll see if I can get a package deal on that and the motor mount brackets and the PPF as well. Wait they won't give me much of a deal because I'll be using totally different colors for each part. I'm not going to mess up my engine bay with all one color, that's so 1987.
I don't need to worry about an ECU because I have a built motor and like way bigger injectors so I will be fine. I read you can use toluene if you hear decavitation or something like that in the engine. It'll be good to because I roll on the throttle so no sudden spikes to the turbo.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:17 AM   #15
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They should give a discount for multiple colors, all of them are going to go into the oven at the same time and the oven is the expensive/time consuming part.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:25 AM   #16
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The oven would have to be too hot because the piston rods are steel, and they said the aluminim would become T1 cyberdyned.
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:26 AM   #17
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Wat? They powder coat everything at the same temperature. And why are you getting your rods powder coated?
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Old 05-14-2014, 11:34 AM   #18
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Isn't that what you want? Blow a hole in the block, it will repair itself.

Of course the whole 'trying to kill all humans' thing might hold back the performance a bit.
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Old 05-14-2014, 12:11 PM   #19
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I was so upset about being called a 2 clamp guy that I started trolling. I'm sorry for all the hurt I caused unlike Braineak. I'll need a bit of time to forgive, the pain runs deep.

There will be no leaks. I will probably use stiffer rad hose for the "bushing/adaptor" as 2 layers of silicone will deform quite a bit and possibly create a leak.
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