The guy said it was optional but a good idea....

So you're telling me that the engineer from Garrett recommended using a 300*f thread-locker on this:
http://badger-5.com/bin/glowing-turbo.jpg

Please tell me this isn't true.

As i mentioned earlier, I had asked for the compressor side torque value.

Oh and Sav - you know the rules: pics or this never happened.

I've never heard of those bolts backing out on any turbo before.

I always tighten those bolts as much as I humanly can with a wrench. Basically to the point where the bolt head would begin to round off. Probably like 50-60ft lb or more.

+1 although a bit less. Mine were tight as hell when they came out so they went in tight as hell too.

Im not sure on the Gerrett turbos but when I did a dsm turbo for my miata. I used oil because the threads did not go all the way through so it was like hydro locking the bolts in.

what?

stop posting, please.

Believe he's saying the blind holes in his dsm turbo somehow were full of oil. Tightening against this oil (pressurizing it, not hydrolock) created a false sense of tightness. But I agree, stop posting for now.

Sav, sounds like you need to v-band the v-band setup. Id make fun of you for spending all this money for nothing, but A: this really sucks and I'm sorry for you, and B: my miata is engineless currently so I have no room to talk.

Okay I will to make the elders happy.

Dang, that really sucks. I've been keeping an eye on the nuts/studs/v-band threads to see how this turns out. Look on the bright side... at least the turbine housing stayed attached to the manifold. Right?

is there anyway the housing could have cocked to one side a tiny bit when you torqued them down. since you took the turbo off to tighten it could have happened then. if it was, that would mean that the bolts were tight (torque wise) until later when the housing or center section moved (flattened out) then the bolts would be loose, then the housing would move again this time enough to make contact. i know it's far fetched but can't imagine another way for that to happen if you tightened them all down. did you use a star pattern when tightening the bolts down? i've seen people zap lugs on with an impact where the wheel wasn't flat against the hub. they even used a torque wrench, only to have the wheel come off later after the wheel seated correctly allowing the bolts to come loose.

sorry to hear about that man. i hate when little shit like that fucks up expensive parts. good luck.

it's a sign to use the .64.

seriously though, that's not a frequent occurence. does your shit generate some bolt-loosening harmonics? got dam.

I'm going to safety wire mine. I'm really sorry to hear about this Savington.

However, isn't it great to pull on basically any car on the track? Its always a trip to pull GT3's and Vettes on the straights for a change.

It was nice being able to run down 996 Turbos and shit. 280whp is retarded power in this car. 3rd gear is nearly unuseable.

I've certainly seen that, where you tighten not quite on the bottom, very easy to get it cocked.I've come across the fluid filled holes thing before, too, often just wiggling the bolt lets it breath.

Sorry to hear about it. I guess still no ideas? None of the bolts broke, right?


On the subject of virbrations, everything with less than two bolts holding itself to my intake manifold breaks eventually. Doesn't matter what it's made out of.

dude thats so lame, your car was running so well yesterday too. i was watching you on the straights and it was so cool seeing you pull on the 996.

BTW, did you break 50?

He was ~12 sec under SM record.

would of been another 2-3 sec faster if he didn't ran out of gear down the front straight

he needs to slow down, and won't have any issues.

they probably backed out because you're a virgin.