Im confused, this is a drift car buld thread right?

where are the decals bombs and the baseball bats to the fenders?

 

thanks curly. I should be receiving the oil lines and fittings from summit racing today too, since they're so close to me and since they're on top of shipping their stuff out I pretty much always get next day shipping through them

I have another question for you guys, has anyone ever tried to make their own boost timing retard device? Now, making something like the bipes might be a little too complex, but making something as crude as the MSD unit seems like it should be pretty easy to make with a junkyard map sensor and ~$20 worth of stuff from radioshack. What I'm thinking is all you'd have to do is figure out that at x psi the map sensor is at y voltage and then splice into a signal going into the ecu that affects timing and have the device alter that voltage signal by z amount to change timing whenever is sees y voltage. Just wondering if anybody has ever attempted this? I imagine you'd need a datalogger to watch timing so it'd be nice to just copy someone else's plan that's already figured out the z-value

 

Summit brand hose ends? You're gonna have a bad time. At least if they're from the batch they were shipping 2 months ago. Fit between the parts is too tight so you cant get the nut close enough to the fitting to start the threads. If you cant get them to work, its not, "I cannot AN because I have the dumb" its "F U summit I should have bought aeroquip or goodridge."

 

well, I have a whole lot of pictures I could post! None of the baseball bat but I actually do need to re-take a baseball bat to my left front fender today because I'm drifting tomorrow and last week my tire caught on the lip and bent it flush with the face of the fender. Paint is already chipping now so might as well just take vice grips to it. lol. Well, I'll post a few highlights of my build so far:

Stock:



Then coilovers:




Rode that low for a few days before deciding it was retarded, now about an inch to 1.5" higher than that. Here's a homemade heatsheild:



1.8l brakes



gutting:



FM frame rails:



hard dog roll bar, softtop only version because it was taller and closer to the driver! I figure if I'm going to drop $600 on something to save my life, I might as well get the one that'll protect me the most. Door bars to be added later.



Some decal for ya:

 

1.8l hosuing with rx7 clutch type lsd:



BBS wheels, also, my first event



Power steering cooler, still not big enough though, I'll be upgrading to an aluminum reservoir and a bar and plate type cooler eventually.




custom modified knuckles and extended braided brake lines

 

First boo boo:



Bear in mind, the car had a salvage title when I got it and that right rear quarter panel was already badly misaligned, I just broke the finish panel and scratched the bumper, lol

tow strap/tongue :






Then went to town cleaning and painting, and polished the PPF






Poor stock clutch gave out on me at the track in pouring rain and I had to wait 2 hours for a tow truck... So, fm stage 1 and lightweight flywheel went in. Also took this time to heatsheild the tranny tunnel.





cheap seat mounted on stock sliders:



silly drifter stuff:



newish finish panel



foam-ectomy for passenger seat:



more decals for ya:

 

needs more body panel damage for me to consider it a real drift car, close though, but very poser as it stands, its like wearing a deadmau5 shirt.

 

Damn really? I used summit hose ends a few years ago when I had to make a oil filter relocation kit for a custom turbo build I was doing on a 94 celica and I remember them being a bitch to get on, but they did go on without leaks. It's not a big deal though, I can get earl's ends for cheap through my work, I just wanted to get everything at once. I got russell -10 an hose, a russell oil drain fitting for the turbo, a russell -4an to m10 x 1.5 fitting, a turbonetics pre-made -4an line, an aeroquip -10 to 3/8 npt fitting, a summit brand 1/8 npt to -4an fitting, and 2 summit -10an hose ends. I was just trying to order the stuff that was in stock at summit's reno nv location so I'd get it next day :P

 

Give me some time, lol. I think it'd be more poser to buy a car already beat up like a drift car than to buy a relatively straight one and beat it up yourself Like I said, I only just started drifting midway last season, I think tomorrow will only be my 9th or 10th event.

also this just got here, 26 hours fromt he time I click the order button to my doorstep


And lastly, a video I made from a couple weeks ago, you can see I'm doing ok at first on bald tires then towards the end I just understeer every single time...

 

They might end up fine, but the -6 from summit gave us problems and the -8 fro jegs (most likely the same supplier) was an issue for someone I race with. The aeroquip ones we bought went together like cake, just like in the you tube videos on how to do it, effortless.

 

Took about 15 mins of fighting, mostly because I no has vice, but it did go in. Paper towel is to keep regular 27mm wrench from scratching, I only have the one AN wrench, it actually worked pretty good. I'm going to wait until I have the rest of the parts mounted on the engine for the second hose end so I know what length to cut it. Also wasn't sure if I'd need a 90 or a 45, I bought a 45

 

I like this build

 

You've done some decent work, and your "built not bought" sticker fits your car more than most others I've seen on CR. The AFPR is going to a good home Still don't like drifting.

 

Depends on the type of drifiting, if its that type where you try to get as close to the walls and the other car as possible while drifitng, its stupid. But if its just an organized event where a bunch of dude bros can hoon around a course made of cones or whatever that wouldnt be too bad. I've got a set of RS3s that have heat cycled out and have a bunch of flat spots that I wouldnt mind destroying.

 

Grade 8 hardware? On turbo stuff?

Bad idea bro, bad idea. Or so the forum says with respect to heat expansion at least.

 

hmm really? I have not heard that but I could see why. I just did some reading on this now and still a little confused as to what I should be using so I've still got some reading to do on that, but in the meantime I'll just use the bolts that were supplied with the parts and re-check the torque every so often.

Anyway, I tried to put these on yesterday morning:



Those are megan racing outer tie rods for an fc rx7. I've read in many places that they will work on a miata, but they don't. The taper is smaller such that they won't press into the knuckle they way they are supposed to. With the way my knuckles were modified they are drilled straight through with a washer welded on top that the rod end presses into, so it will only work with a taper exactly the same... I put these ends in and it had ~1/16th inch play in all directions. Definitely not safe! I'm going to try to return them and see if I can find some miata specific rod ends, if not I'll just use some 93 LE ends.

four brand new tires at the ready, I'm going to mount them on the BBS's after I powdercoat them and polish the lips





DIY alignment, I used to work at a shop that did laser alignments so I'm used to getting them done on a car like this in 10-15 minutes... One day when I have the space for it I'll have a 4-post lift and alignment machine, my own tire machine, etc. *sigh* one day...



Oh yeah these came in yesterday too




The welds on the downpipe look... bad :( it'll work but I'm definitely considering it a temporary set-up now. Turbo looks good except it says that it's a t3/t4, I just went back and re-read the ad and it definitely says t3 turbo with .48 A/R exhaust, 0.60 A/R compressor. What I got says .48 A/R exhaust, 0.42 A/R compressor, and the compressor wheel measures about 60mm diameter. Is this going to be too big?

 

60mm diameter = t3 not t4.

A/R numers mean little in determining the TYPE of turbo. It appears you have the exact same turbo as me, which is good.

 

That down pipe. I do not understand. It is plumbed for what looks like a flanged wastegate but the waste gate just connects the turbo outlet near the internal wastegate and the down pipe. So basically an external wastegate would do nothing. Either block those flanges, or connect them with a piece of pipe, or the smart thing, send it back.

 

you'd remove the wastegate from the T3 and bolt the DP directly to it, then put the EWG on the DP.

T3s dont have integrated wastegates into the turbine housings like T2x's.

 

Ok, cool, I got worried for a second, haha. I'm still trying to figure out what all those number mean, I understand the A/R relates to the housing sizes and the trim relates to the wheel sizes but how those affect how the turbo performs is still unclear to me. All the other turbo cars I've had (94 celica GT that I built a custom kit using an oem mr2 turbo and manifold, 88 celica alltrac, and 04 wrx) I've never really needed to learn it since I was just using stock turbos on all of them. I definitely need to pick up Maximum Boost and get to reading before attempting to get a megasquirt.

Hopefully going to start mounting parts today, at least to get the mani/turbo/dp/wastegate mounted, the oil lines run, and the intercooler plumbed. Still waiting on a couple couplers, the fpr and injectors. Also have to get a boost gauge, I thought I had one laying around but apparently it was still in my alltrac when I sold it, lol. I can get autometer through my work so I'll probably go with one of those, either that or another prosport