6strngs

iTrader: (2)

Thanks here's the same one I got. Just know that it has a 2.5" inlet not 2.75" and a 0.42 A/R compressor housing, not a 0.60.

Cxracing T3 Internal Wastegate Turbo Charger turbocharger 42AR 8PSI 2 5" V Band | eBay

I guess I haven't updated this thread in a while but people stopped replying so I figured you all lost interest I just got my new wideband in a couple days ago and found I have been running really rich this whole time, which is what I wanted until I had the wideband in, but the AFR was just sitting at 10.0 under boost. I backed off the regulator some and now it's around 10.5 and it instantly felt way faster, haha. I haven't gotten a chance to tune it any further than that yet, though I did also set my timing to 8* which really helped this thing at being able to start moving before 4k rpm, leaving red lights was absolutely painful.

I also got a PCV valve through my work through a vendor that sells a lot of OEM parts, I used the part number for a 323 GTX PCV and got one that was listed as being an OEM part (meaning, it's the same brand that made the ones for mazda, but not a mazda branded part) I'm not so sure this was an OEM one though, it seems to only work sometimes... So, I also got an inline check valve but not before blowing out my valve cover gasket and possibly also my front crankshaft seal. So, while I had the valve cover off I cut it like a ricer and had it powdercoated. I also just discovered my oil feed line was leaking at the block too so that is fixed now. Umm, let's see, what else? Oh, I tore my rear differential apart because I noticed it was not locking and measured breakaway torque on it to be only 12 ft lbs... Upon dissassembly I found the clutch plates were arranged in the wrong order and one of the spider gears was frozen onto the spider. I took that to a local rear-end specialty shop who told me that was caused by one wheel spinning independent of the other while the diff was locked, probably caused by worn clutch plates. Well, I measured all the clutch plates to be almost perfectly in spec, but went ahead and added a .28mm shim, reassembled, and still only had 33 ft lbs of breakaway torque... It's better but still not as aggressive as I want it, so I'm going to start saving for a Tomei or Kaaz LSD though I can't decide if I want that or a megasquirt first...

My exhaust has been rattling against the frame pretty good between about 4,800-5,500 rpms but last night I found that the v bands were not tight enough and now the exhaust barely moves at all so hopefully that is fixed now too. Haven't gotten a chance to drive it again because it's been having clutch issues lately too where it's really difficult to get into gear sometimes. The problem started when I want on a long drive with the new turbo after about an hour of hard driving through the back roads. The car has a new clutch, master cylinder, slave cylinder, a 949 racing braided clutch line, and was bled using a mighty-vac so I'm not sure if the fluid just got too hot and boiled or what, maybe I should try a racing brake fluid with a higher boiling point.

Oh yeah, and I put Hawk HPS pads on all around last night too. I think that's everything I've done lately... Though I ordered a tool that should be here today that I'm sure every drifter wishes they had in their garage, pics to come

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I wouldn't buy that same turbo. it's very oversized for a 1.6L.

ins2g8r

thanks for the link 6strngs.

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

np, just know that Brain isn't kidding, it really doesn't start moving until 4k rpms now. I'm really considering getting a 6 speed transmission to help get in the powerband faster, though my 4.1 rear end ratio isn't doing me any favors either.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

buy a better turbo that drops right in that doesnt suck *******.

ins2g8r

I thought from what i have seen posted that a 50 trim t3 was good for more lowend than a 60 trim, but then in this thred when you said it sounded like he had the same turbo as you do, which is good, i was going to buy that one. Seller didnt answer my question yet, and i have not ordered it yet. Didnt want to start a new post about what size turbo to order with out reading to find answer myself, all i could find were different thoughts and not more than one person recomending the same turbo.

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

What? And miss out on all the **** you guys give me? Can I even get a t3-flanged turbo smaller than this?

I've been wanting a 6-speed ever since I put the 4.1 ratio diff in though, even NA with 14* timing it accelerated much too slow for me. Maybe I'll just switch to a 4.3 or 4.7 when I get a new diff. I think the fact that it's been running ridiculously rich and had an exhaust leak might have been affecting my spool too. I would bleed the clutch and go drive it today to find out if I didn't have to go help a friend pull a motor out of one ef civic and put it into another ef civic. Maybe tomorrow

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

It works, and it definitely spools. It just depends on if you would rather have better spool or more room for higher hp

ins2g8r

I found this one that seems to fit the bill, any thoughts on this one before I order?
t3
Compressor Wheel
0.42 A/R Cold Side
Ind: 42.5 mm
Exd: 60 mm
Trim: 50.17
Turbiner Wheel
2.5" V-Band 0.48 A/R Hot Side
Ind: 64 mm
Exd: 46 mm
Trim: 51.66

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

thats the one i use.

a real t3 has a 60mm compressor wheel, not a 71mm or 76mm compressor wheel; that makes it a t4.

ins2g8r

thank you so much, reading and reading and reading threads paid off, I am getting the correct turbo

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

I don't have all the specs on mine, but it's probably the same as the specs you posted ins2g8r

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

your compressor wheel is NOT 60mm, it's at least 71mm going on 82mm. Your inducer is probably 60mm considering the inlet is 2.75". I'm willing to bet it's a T04E sized wheel.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

FYI, if you get a 6 speed and shorter diff, you will be able to reach 4k rpm more quickly, but your boost threshold will move up as well. You need a certain amount of exhaust gasses to move the turbo. Changing your gearing doesn't change how quick the turbo spools.

If you want more response just spend another $125 or whatever for the 50 trim Churbo.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no no no. he has the same turbo as me. he gets 15psi in 3rd at 3.3K like I do too.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Ah I re-read the thread and see that he does indeed have the same turbo. I thought he had one of the larger T3/T4 hybrids from the way he was talking.

But my point still stands. OP needs real tuning, and changing the rear end won't help that.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

NO HE DOESNT. im being an *******.


he has some huge *** turbo that spools like limp dick on his shitty 1.6L motor.


wtf is wrong with everyone.

6strngs

iTrader: (2)

The ebay page is wrong. It has a 2.5" inlet, not 2.75. The wheel measures about 60mm outside diameter.

With an exhaust leak, 8* timing, and running stupid rich I hit about 6 psi in 2nd, and 8 psi in 3rd by about 6000 rpm. Everytime I bog off the line I see my wideband reads 10.0 AFR, that's as low as the gauge reads so probably running even richer than that. Until 4K rpms the car is considerably faster at partial throttle than WOT because of how rich it runs at WOT. I haven't gotten a chance to play with the adjustment on the AFPR yet because of stupid other little issues here and there I've had. I'm sure with proper tuning it would run a LOT better. Just from the one adjustment I've made so far which brought my WOT AFR's from a solid 10.0 to ~10.4-10.5 the car felt WAY better.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

oh okay, i misread you post.

fix your ****.

thenuge26

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I think he TRIED to buy the bigger 57 trim but they sent him the 50 trim which is good for him.