I'm having the most frustratingly ridiculous time trying to get my oil feed in. Here's what I'm doing:



However, no matter what angle I'm coming from, I'm finding it impossible to get the oil feed line on. Front, back, down, up, whatever. Even if I got it on, there's no way in hell I could stick a wrench up there to get it off.

How should I go about this?

 

1. You're just going to break that "typical" tee anyway, the vibrations from sticking the oil pressure gauge sender on the side of it will break it off the side of the motor

2. Get a BSP to -3AN adapter, bring an AN line up off the side of the block, and then put your pressure sender and oil feed line on a tee that's attached to the firewall. A little more expensive initially, but about a bajillion times easier to install, maintain, and way more reliable.

 

Mine has the T mounted towards the engine ( I-)with the oil pressure sender mounted forward and the oil feed pointing back. Has been that way for six years.

 

Mine has been mounted just like the diagram (standard FM2 parts) for 8 years and 50K miles now, no vibration damage.

As for installation -- when I put it on the first time, I had the intake manifold off, the second time I had the engine out of the car, so I can't help much.

--Ian

 

I have a steel fitting to the block but I did basically what's in your diagram except I positioned the t to keep the weight closer to the block (|->Block vs your T>Block) for less leverage. I had some issues mounting it (removed the intake mani brace) but it wasn't that hard from under the car.

Do this part right (...every part really), you don't want to do it twice. I would've done it the way Savington describes but I had all the parts already to do it the way I did.

 

Mine is the same as your diagram only the T has male threads on the side going into the block so no need for that threaded fitting.

Been working fine for ~2 years now and all the parts came off my old escort gt that was turboed for about a year or so.

Stubby wrenches definitely help for getting up in there.

 

same here, I have a 96' engine in my 94', and I just did what your diagram shows, routed behind the block, under the heater core coolant lines, and banjo-fitted to the turbo from the far right side. works fine and has been for the past couple years now.

 

Brass tee failures are pretty well documented, folks. Use a steel tee or get an oil pressure light, because when it breaks you lose oil pressure.

 

I just used a sandwich plate and then a -4An fitting and line.

 

It can be pretty cheap too, e.g.:

http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...m?1=1&CartID=0

9002-04-02 is a BSP to -4 AN flare (more or less).

Steel industrial fittings are way way cheaper than aluminum race car parts.

 

Sorry to threadjack with a dumb question, but how do you attach the tee to the firewall? Would a pair of 36" -3an lines be sufficient to complete this type of setup?

 

Wait. . . when Savington and you both write BSP do you mean BSPP or BSPT? that link is for BSPP.

 

Well, the oil pressure sensor has a sealing washer. It seems odd that they'd use tapered threads and a sealing washer.

I can tell you that the fitting I mentioned threads into my 1996 block perfectly. I haven't actually fired it up yet so I can't tell you any more than that.

 

Note that a long -3 AN hose represents a measurable oil pressure drop. I've had my (aftermarket) OPG sender mounted in the turbo supply line and in the -10 remote filter line (immediately after the filter), and it was 5-20 psi lower at the end of the -3 line. The delta varies with base pressure and with oil temp.

--Ian

 

I can attest to brass fittings breaking off in the block. Happened on my SR20DET. Luckily I saw the trail of oil before I completely lost oil pressure. I even had an oil pressure gauge, but I didn't see it go to 0. Use Steel as suggested or move the T fitting somewhere else!

 

Wish I had read this a couple of months ago. I got a kit from stelathmode performance, (though I'd probably go with ATP turbo for customer service). Good quality parts (the right parts, no cross thread BS) Goes on real smooth when motors out of the car.

Listen to Sav. I forgot to tighten my oil feed line at the sender. It's tee'd like your picture. Sender perpendicular to motor and oil feed running parallel toward rear. It was a MF to get a wrench up there past the starter and oil sending unit. It would have been so easy to remote mount that sending unit. Probably only cost an extra 10 bucks.

 

I believe that it is supposed to be BSPT (tapered) thread. That would make this the correct link: http://www.discounthydraulichose.com...SPT_p/9011.htm

For anyone who has a serious aversion to buying anything that's spec'd as JIC, you can get BSP to AN and BSP to NPT adapters here as well: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3230
Note that some of those fittings are steel, and others aluminum. Shop wisely.

 

Anyone serious enough to care about JIC vs AN should machine the block to take an ORB fitting.

Anyway, I just measured my stuff. The oil pressure sensor is indeed tapered. The BSPP fitting with the O-ring seal fits perfectly and threads in easily by hand. I don't have an inside micrometer so I can't measure this, but it could be that the block is not tapered but the sensor is.

Pics

 

Yeah, it wasn't my intention to suggest that there is a practical difference between AN and JIC, just acknowledging that in the past, folks have questioned it.

For the record, a standard JIC connector has the same 37° mating surface as an AN connector. There is a subtle difference in the specifications for the thread shape, however from a practical standpoint, the two are identical.


That O-ring fitting is pretty neat. Hadn't seen those before.

 

Ok, I have re-done it:


So just a fitting and a line are on the block now, and it runs all the way up to a tee mounted in the old oil recicrulation clip things. From the tee the line to the turbo and the pressure sender unit are connected.

Does this look good? Easier access for sure.