Nagase

iTrader: (6)

He needs to drop the crap of course, but look at the real issue here.

220whp from 15psi on a 2560r. Something is /wrong/ here. With a churbo or a decent turbo, he needs to learn how to tune for himself. He obviously is looking at it like a black arts mystery box, willing to consider driving a thousand miles (round trip) just to get a tune.

Knowing what to do with what you have is more important than having the right stuff.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

^ Well it's true it would be extreme to drive a 500 mile, one-way trip to tune it, I actually make regular trips into the LP, so going through Chicago is already in the works anyway. I do intend to master the Hydra system. I have a rather busy schedule that keeps me from reading about it front to back and would rather it be properly tuned the first time around, lol.

If it wasn't 15 ******* degrees in my freezer (garage) last night I would have actually gotten something done beyond changing my shift boots, and to top it off the battery froze even though I had it on a float charger. At least I found that before I really wanted to drive it..

Edit-

The only reason I am still running the Hydra, is I eventually plan to sell the NB head and get a fully reworked 01+ VVT head, unless the MSII can do this now..? But that's a year or two down the line, unless a killer deal shows up (like my bushings for 1/3 the cost )

dustinb

Get that car on the dyno, turn up the boost, and see what happens. My godspeed GT28 is making just over 263hp at 14psi with a 2.5" exhaust. This thread reminds me a lot of m.net. The whole: "oh god why'd you waste your money on aftermarket parts when the manufacturer got it right. OEM parts are far superior, you're an idiot to even try them." Can be applied exactly to how people are like "you're an idiot for trying anything other then a genuine garret, they got it right blah blah blah." Kudos to you for trying something different. Sorry it hasn't panned out (yet), but don't think you have to do exactly like everyone else to make power.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

^ **** happens, if I screwed up at least I learned something. As it sits, I have to get that battery charged to get the car running, I'm hoping it's good when I get home tonight. I'm pretty intent on digging out my timing light and verifying my timing, I am 99% sure I got it right for 0º when I setup the Hydra, but hell, I could have missed something. It's one of those 'wtf is going on here?!' situations right now.. :P

Tuning the hydra really from what I've done myself isn't too hard, but my only concern is doing it wrong and ending up with a situation I can't figure my way out of.

Gotpsi?

iTrader: (5)

Moar boost!

Also agree with needing bigger exhaust. Get a 3" and be done with it. I think ARTECH does custom setups for people.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I drove 10 hours to have my car tuned by Jerry at DIYAutoTune 3 years ago. So 500 miles does not seem to unreasonable to me.

Hiro and Satori

In my experience, Flyin' Miata is pretty good about going over your logs and suggesting improvements. Usually it just takes a phone call or email to get some results. What you're really paying extra for with the Hydra is FM's support....so use it!

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

^ Indeed I have been, probably not as much as I could though. As for exhaust, I will probably get the FM 3", I love the sound and it should mate up really well with the butterfly brace I already have. Once I have 3", I'll push 18-20psi, tune fueling and timing and call it a day

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I was talking with my friend about the issues I was having making power, and he recalls looking at some of my dyno sheets, which had me making 10.5-11 afr under boost. I think I found part of my issue, now I just need to check the plugs and do a leakdown tonight (battery died, waiting on replacement). I really hope it's just tuning and not mechanical, lol...

Edit- I'm thinking of putting in an EGT probe, but I'm not sure on the best method to go about this. I've considered drilling my fm manifold but at the risk of cracking I will hold off for now.

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

You need to look at dyno sheets to find your AFRs? You really don't have a wideband?

You've done this build completely backwards, you know.

Now you're waist deep in a modded car with no idea what it's actually doing.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I have one, but if you re-read my post you would see that I have a dead battery, thus no manner of STARTING said vehicle to test my AFRs.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Actually it's not even remotely comparable.

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

This implies you never checked your AFRs while or after driving. This argument really isn't helping you, you know.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

I've checked lol, it's just been 8 months since I have last touched the car. I really wish I remembered what it was right off the bat :P

Nagase

iTrader: (6)

See, that's what I'm talking about. 8 months of not touching the car? For shame.

Learn to do stuff yourself. I've been in the same position, broken car and too intimidated to try to fix it because I knew nothing.

Now I have a car I'm building up from the ground. It's very helpful.

Der_Idiot

iTrader: (2)

Believe me, I've been working on it. The 3d map in the hydra software is simple enough, but it's hard to tell if I'm adjusting too much or too little, I'll have to wait until late April before I can really drive it to tell (pothole city up here right now).

As for why it's sat untouched, we salt the roads up here in the great state of Minnesnowta, so my car has been in storage. Top it off with the garage it's in not having insulation, it makes for a very cold work environment. My last Miata went from being rust-free to baseball sized holes in the rear rockers after just one season in our awful winters. This one has been in storage since the day before the first snow fell. Not a fan of rust. :P