I have been looking around for a week now trying to find info/pics wheresomeone has installed the 22" big boy Magnaflow muffler at an angle tominimize the bends in and out of the muffler (with 3" tubing). I found threads where people weretalking about doing it, but that was it.

I remember seeing a real nice writeup by Brain or Y8s a while ago on the22" install, but it seems the pictures are now missing. They also installedthe muffler with the factory orientation which required an additional 180 degbend to get into the muffler which I would like to get rid of.

I got the muffler in last week and stuck it into the available space andDAMN its huge in there. Not a lot of clearance when mounting it at an angle.

Has anyone successfully installed the 22" magnaflow muffler at anangle? If so, post some pics or a link please.

 

I've seen someone do it on an angle and just used a 45° in and out. I could never find the pics again.

otherwise, there's PLENTY of room to mount horizontally.


it's also highly dependent on what i/o's you ended up with. you should not be using a C/C muffler.

 

I did that with my first magnaflow exhaust build, but it was a 2.5 piping (same size otherwise).

I used what y8s called "cheater bends" that he made a fuss about but I thought was totally fine.

To have perfect bends though I don't think it can be done easily, or at least I didn't arrive at that conclusion the last few times I tried to mock it up under there

 

What's wrong with the 180°? If its done properly is there going to be that much of a difference?



Someone seriously needs to find those pics, I've heard you guys mention it off and on for like the last 2 years

 

it was a super old super crappy pic shot with a potato its really not as helpful as we make it seem.

Also nothing wrong with the 180 but we're all lazy I mean performance oriented and would rather have a straighter I mean easier exhaust path

 

Both entry/exit are straight to the path through the muffler. The offset/offset muffler passage is diagonal- doesn't require a 90° angle entry/exit.

 

Nice.

Now try that with the NB "ladder" in place and all of a sudden it doesn't fit

 

hey that was the one. I couldn't remember who's build it was.

and yes, NBs will have a harder time than NAs in fitting this muffler.



also when I pulled my muffler the other day two of my hangers were ripped, I suggest you get those fancy yellow silicone ones, or wrap all your hangers in hose clamps. (the ONE i did this with was fine)

 

Or on a 94 with the bigger CVs and the 1 cross brace in the back.

 

not buying it.

 

Yes, being a 90 there's no bracing- just planned to make my own after the exhaust was done. The car in the pics has a complete 1.8 driveline. As Brain said, the key is using the offset/offset to minimize the entry/exit angles.

 

Awesome!That is exactly how I have it mocked up right now. I also got the offsetin/offset out muffler. Is that 3” or 2.5” tubing?

I waswondering if special exhaust hangers were needed since I would only have about1.5” of clearance in two places and the 23 year old rubber hangers on minewould allow way too much movement. Who makes the yellow hangers? I have seenthe FM poly $10 a piece ones, but no yellow silicone ones.

My 91 hasall 96 1.8 driveline, luckily it has the one piece axles and I kept the 91 rearsubframe so I still have to make a custom rear brace. The plan was to wait tofabricate something after the exhaust went in.

I was alsoplanning on cutting the short ~2” inlets and outlets that come on the mufflerand weld the bends as close to the case as possible. By my estimate it lookedlike I could pull it all off with the 180 and 45 bends that I got with the straighttubing.

One morequestion for the DIY guys. I have seen several people mention using the HFchopsaws, but what about the smaller 4x6 band saws? I have one and have used itfor cutting stock for the mill and lathe. I was planning on using it for cuttingthe tubing as well, I just haven’t tried 3” tubing on that thing yet.

 

All 3 inch. I used jack stands and wood blocks to get it in position at a maximum angle favorable to the exhaust run. The used some steel rod for custom hanger arms to the stock hangers. You can see what I did for the driver side to the rear in one of the photos. I used flat stock bolted to the OE tie-down location to hang an exhaust bushing.

I think I got the poly hangers on amazon or eBay- they're awesome for this since they really cut down on the movement and allow for tighter clearances.

This setup was done with the two-piece axles so your's can fit tighter.

Band saw will work if that's what you have, but I'd have some cutting discs and a ~4" grinder handy for tweaking.

 

I believe 949 sells some bitchen' urethane hangers. Urethane Exhaust Hangers Miata

I believe Crusher was running a 5x11x22 at the 25 hour race and even with the fancy hangers, we still hoseclamped them. That is one heavy beast of a muffler.

 

Here is mine:

 

Is it worth putting a v-band flange just past the diff? I have a 3-bolt flange similar to the one m2cupcar has in the pictures from the 2.5-3" transition pipe I am re-cycling (my old Jetta downpipe). I want to add at least one joint somewhere along with a flex joint somewhere up front (just ahead of where the cat would be).

 

its worth it for the ease of removal and packaging. otherwise doesn't matter

 

I ended up getting 5 of these Torque Solution 10mm poly exhaust hangers for a steal ($35). Sorry, im cheap. This should minimize movement of the muffler and remaining exhaust pipe.

Torque Solution Exhaust Hanger Mount 10 Mm | eBay

I now have all the parts I need to make the exhaust, just have to get the turbo installed with a basic turndown after the downpipe so I can drive it to my brother's house and get it on the lift for exhaust fab. I am not going to attempt that on jackstands!

 

I used my 4x6 exclusively on mine. I use it in the vertical all of the time for cutting stuff. Just sit on it like a bicycle so it doesn't move and use it as a vertical band saw. Just be careful getting the cut started.



In my case I used five V-bands. Two on the two collectors and three in the pipe. Mine is different as I modded the subframe to fit the 8.8" diff so even tighter to fit. I can drop the entire exhaust very quickly. I did have to cheat the 180* into the muffler. You can see the section cuts.

 

I finally got the exhaust done last night and it sounds great. Idle is a lot quieter than I expected. I was almost disappointed when I first started it. It sounds great when you get on it, nice and deep but not obnoxiously loud. I love it. I am glad I did the 3" stainless all the way back from the 2.5" ebay MSM downpipe (well half of it). Don't bust my ***** too bad on the welding, I just got my Eastwood TIG a few weeks ago to weld my exhaust and am still learning. Looks better than anything I could have MIGed though.

I used the 12579 3" offset in and out 22" long Magnaflow muffler. This guy took a $100 best offer back in December when I bought the muffler. That’s the best deal I could find.

3" O O 5x11 Oval 22" Body Magnaflow Muffler SS 12578 | eBay

I only needed one 3" U bend and 4' of 3" straight to make it work from essentially a CATback location (see where I transition from 2.5" to 3". I only have about 6-8" of extra length left so this would be the bare minimum you would need to get the exhaust made with the shallow angles into and out of the muffler. Doing it any other way would require at least an additional U bend to make it work. I got the MSM downpipe for my bday a year or two back so I figured I would hack off the part I did not need, rotate the section where the O2 is located and reinforce the turbo side flange to make the Ebay downpipe acceptable. I also did not feel like making my own DP at this time. Once I get bored of the MSM turbo I will fab my own DP for the next setup. This is also why I installed a V-band up front so the DP can be changed out easily.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/imm-548666

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-640130-1

My brother has one of those 4ft lifts that fit in a normal garage and it helped a ton with the fab of the exhaust and repeated fitment. I installed the FM butterfly brace and frame rails at the same time, I don't know how in the heck you do that on jackstands.

I still need to figure out what to do with the tip, the plain 3" sticking out back looks a little mickey mouse to me. I will add pictures later of the installed exhaust once I get it back on the lift for the 949 sport clutch swap.

I have a minimum of 3/4" to 1" clearance to everything around the exhaust. With the poly bushings it doesn't move much at all and I do not have any exhaust vibrations at all. I doubt you would be able to run those close tolerances with old rubber bushings without getting lots of metal on metal rubbing noises. I used 7/16 bolts/lock nuts and all thread to make the hangers. If I made hangers like the factory ones I would never be able to get those poly hanger unhooked to drop the exhaust later on, those things are crazy stiff.

I still have to figure out a way to add a wide strap exhaust clamp bracket to tie the 2.5" part to the tranny similar to the factory downpipe clamp/support. I will mess with that when the clutch gets replaced.