Manifold to turbo bolts coming loose?? WTF?
#1
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Manifold to turbo bolts coming loose?? WTF?
So i developed a small exhaust leak last week and found it to be the 2 bolts on the right, top and bottom (if facing the turbo/mani) were loose. No problem, just fight with the FM heat shield like there was no tomorrow and tighten. Then fight with the FM heat shield again to get it back on. Done.
Well i just came back from lunch and opened the hood to hear the same leak AGAIN! Is there a way to combat this? Safety wire? Suggestions?
Well i just came back from lunch and opened the hood to hear the same leak AGAIN! Is there a way to combat this? Safety wire? Suggestions?
#7
Don't buy that **** from FM. They charge some retarded amount of money. Get them at Fastenal: http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um...e-results&cd=1
#8
I call bullshit on the FM washers. I've had crazy problems with fasteners on mine rattling loose. On my previous setup I was rocking FM washers (thanks SamNavy) with the threaded nuts. They held for longer then the regular nuts and locking washers, but last week I realized one was missing and had managed to backthread off completely! I eventually will need to move to the wire locking setup or just start nitching my threads lol.
#10
Don't buy that **** from FM. They charge some retarded amount of money. Get them at Fastenal: http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&um...e-results&cd=1
#16
Safety wire. There's a reason high-reliability systems use it (look at any airplane or helicopter).
I used safety wire on my current BEGI system and after 3 1/2 years and >60,000 miles I KNOW the studs and nuts haven't loosened.
Stover nuts or equivalent on the studs works great until the studs back out...happened to me on my last setup and I ended up ruining an exhaust manifold. Yes, I realize that if the studs are torqued properly the studs should not back out. If the nuts are torqued properly they should not back off. Coulda, shoulda, woulda. $500 for a manifold...safety wire and drill bits are a heck of a lot cheaper.
Just do it. It only takes an extra half-hour.
Barry
I used safety wire on my current BEGI system and after 3 1/2 years and >60,000 miles I KNOW the studs and nuts haven't loosened.
Stover nuts or equivalent on the studs works great until the studs back out...happened to me on my last setup and I ended up ruining an exhaust manifold. Yes, I realize that if the studs are torqued properly the studs should not back out. If the nuts are torqued properly they should not back off. Coulda, shoulda, woulda. $500 for a manifold...safety wire and drill bits are a heck of a lot cheaper.
Just do it. It only takes an extra half-hour.
Barry
#17
^I'll buy that, nice first post.
This is another good thread I started... check out Post#32. I had enough leftover that I even mailed a couple sets out to dudes for free after that.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=nordlock
This is another good thread I started... check out Post#32. I had enough leftover that I even mailed a couple sets out to dudes for free after that.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...light=nordlock
#18
Safety wire. There's a reason high-reliability systems use it (look at any airplane or helicopter).
I used safety wire on my current BEGI system and after 3 1/2 years and >60,000 miles I KNOW the studs and nuts haven't loosened.
Stover nuts or equivalent on the studs works great until the studs back out...happened to me on my last setup and I ended up ruining an exhaust manifold. Yes, I realize that if the studs are torqued properly the studs should not back out. If the nuts are torqued properly they should not back off. Coulda, shoulda, woulda. $500 for a manifold...safety wire and drill bits are a heck of a lot cheaper.
Just do it. It only takes an extra half-hour.
Barry
I used safety wire on my current BEGI system and after 3 1/2 years and >60,000 miles I KNOW the studs and nuts haven't loosened.
Stover nuts or equivalent on the studs works great until the studs back out...happened to me on my last setup and I ended up ruining an exhaust manifold. Yes, I realize that if the studs are torqued properly the studs should not back out. If the nuts are torqued properly they should not back off. Coulda, shoulda, woulda. $500 for a manifold...safety wire and drill bits are a heck of a lot cheaper.
Just do it. It only takes an extra half-hour.
Barry
Wow that sounds like a good idea. I really loved my nord locks, for a while... In theory they would hold the stud in too. :-) But after a couple uses they don't always hold - there are two kinds and I think I have the cheap ones. Fm sells the "good ones" for a whole lot more, I doubt it's justified, but I will admit mine are worn a bit flat.