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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-03-2015, 02:20 AM   #21
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that poor little engine
it never did anything to deserve this kind of abuse
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Old 01-03-2015, 02:35 AM   #22
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that poor little engine
it never did anything to deserve this kind of abuse
you don't know that!
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Old 01-03-2015, 02:46 AM   #23
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Is that an open barb on the cold side piping?
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Old 01-03-2015, 08:30 AM   #24
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"I couldn't afford engine management," then has to buy an engine.

Willful stupidity isn't the same as accidental damage.
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Old 01-03-2015, 10:29 AM   #25
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No it's no open, that hose just wasn't on. It's an old picture. I was waiting for the Jb weld to cure. I know I need a ms. I'm not going to leave it like this! Engine has almost 300000 on it. Rebuild and proper engine management are in the near future!
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:08 AM   #26
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If that is not a PVC valve from a boosted car, then you are likely pressurizing your crankcase.

It would make more sense to tee the vacuum from the stock FPR port.

Guys, is it normal to leave the stock FPR when adding a Rising Rate FPR?

These are not your problem, just some polish. Speaking of polish, the compartment could use some TLC.
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Old 01-03-2015, 11:45 AM   #27
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Yes it it needs some love bad! Everything on this car does!
You think it could be the pcv?
I'll go and get one, 323 gtx pcv correct?
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Old 01-03-2015, 02:11 PM   #28
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Sounds like you need either way less boost or way more fuel.

Do yourself a favor and disconnect the wastegate so it's open all the time until you get it sorted out. You should still make a couple psi that way and the car will be considerably quicker and more driveable, plus infinitely safer than it is now. You're seriously going to blow it up very soon how it is now.
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Old 01-03-2015, 04:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Claybay09 View Post
Yes it it needs some love bad! Everything on this car does!
You think it could be the pcv?
I'll go and get one, 323 gtx pcv correct?
No. I stated it was not your fueling problem, just another problem. Some use that valve, others add a check valve in line with the stock PVC.

Sorry if I added confusion.

Ben is right, a gauge would tell you what is / is not happening. Pdexta also gives good advice to minimize boost until you find the root cause of lack of fuel.

Again, others have used band aids and know how to fix, I was just trying to proactively address the next set of issues.
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Old 01-03-2015, 04:53 PM   #30
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Well I figured I might as well change the pcv and fuel filter. And the problem has seemed to go away for now. I'm hoping it was just the clogged fuel filter.
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:01 PM   #31
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A clogged fuel filter didn't make your car run rich at idle. You have a problem, and turning a blind eye to it will get you stranded somewhere.
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:22 PM   #32
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Props to Ben for genuine concern.

OP, Ben used to run a RRAFR, according to a thread I ran across.

FMU_discussion
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:29 PM   #33
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I was referring to it going lean at full boost. It still gets pretty lean high 15s low 16s. It's a lot better than the the three dots right? I know I'm on aids and that needs to and will change! But until I get a ms, would the rich idle be caused by the 1.8 injectors?
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:30 PM   #34
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You should be like less than 12 in boost. If not lower.
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:35 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
It would make more sense to tee the vacuum from the stock FPR port.
The one time that I did install an RRFPR, thus is what I did. I prefer that line, or the brake booster hose, not just for FPR but also MAP, mostly because I know that they're wide open inside and give a clean reading. Sometimes (and I'm embarrassed to say that I've never looked into this on a Miata), one or more of the ports near the throttle body are engineered not to yield a signal at the extremes of throttle position.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DNMakinson View Post
Guys, is it normal to leave the stock FPR when adding a Rising Rate FPR?
Yes. Nearly all* RRFPRs are active only at manifold pressures greater than atmospheric, and simply pass through when in vacuum. If you installed one of those and removed or bypassed the stock FPR, then you would have no fuel pressure at all when not in boost.


* = A couple of companies, including Bell, make "multi role" regulators which function similarly to the stock regulator in a factory turbo car, operating in both boost and vacuum. The vast majority of RRFPRs used in aftermarket forced induction applications are not this type.




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A clogged fuel filter didn't make your car run rich at idle. You have a problem, and turning a blind eye to it will get you stranded somewhere.
^ Also this.
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:35 PM   #36
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God I need a ms! All my problems will be solved! Anyone have one they want to give me? Or for cheap?
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Old 01-03-2015, 05:49 PM   #37
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