My DIY thread
09-11-2006, 10:34 AM
#21
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I've got 136k miles on mine. I did some research and based on projected longevity with those miles and "currently" having good compression, I expect to get around 40k-50k miles at 8-9psi. A used low mile short block is only $500. But I'll go Link in a couple years when the engine finally goes. I'd say that if you've got the extra cash, access to a cheap longblock, and the time/resources to make the change, then flip a coin. Heads:make change... tails:make change in a couple years.
It looks like you've got the rest of the bases covered. Did you see the spreadsheet I linked in my DIY thread. I've updated it as I've gone along and so far I'm right at $1700. That's just for the turbo stuff and doesn't include the clutch. I'll also need to budget in an extra $200 or so for tuning. IT ALL ADDS UP! Little things like zip-ties and various tubes of goo are the things I didn't expect.
It looks like you've got the rest of the bases covered. Did you see the spreadsheet I linked in my DIY thread. I've updated it as I've gone along and so far I'm right at $1700. That's just for the turbo stuff and doesn't include the clutch. I'll also need to budget in an extra $200 or so for tuning. IT ALL ADDS UP! Little things like zip-ties and various tubes of goo are the things I didn't expect.
~2000 is what I'm hoping to spend on the initial setup, figure if she blows sometime after I'll have a chance to rebuild/upgrade some parts.
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09-11-2006, 10:44 AM
#22
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09-11-2006, 10:46 AM
#23
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A compression check is a quick way to see what kind of shape the engine is in. You're just looking for minimal disparity between cylinders with a respectable compression reading. I think minimum spec in the book for a 1.6 is 145 or os... and if you're that low, boost will surely push oil past the rings. Not saying it won't run and be quick though. - rob
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09-11-2006, 11:02 AM
#24
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You can buy a guage to do it for under $20 at any autoparts store. Even Walmart sells one.
Basically you undo all your plugs and screw in the guage to each cylinder (at a time) and try to start the engine. This pressurizes the gauge and you've read your compression.
Basically you undo all your plugs and screw in the guage to each cylinder (at a time) and try to start the engine. This pressurizes the gauge and you've read your compression.
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09-11-2006, 11:06 AM
#25
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Don't forget to hold the throttle wide open while cranking, and unplug the electrical connection for the injector harness- we don't want to be filling the cylinders up with gasoline while we're doing this. 
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09-11-2006, 03:20 PM
#27
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lmao...thanks guys. I'll do a search on here a miata.net to make sure I'm doing it right, before I do it...
so I'm looking for consistancy and #s above 145?
wheres that clip for the injectors btw? I'm being real lazy today...sorry x.X
so I'm looking for consistancy and #s above 145?
wheres that clip for the injectors btw? I'm being real lazy today...sorry x.X
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09-11-2006, 03:20 PM
#28
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Here's some directions, albeit for another vehicle. Note the wet test:
http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm
As noted earlier, it's the difference between the numbers rather than the actual numbers you should concern yourself with.
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09-11-2006, 03:24 PM
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09-11-2006, 03:25 PM
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Order does not matter. Really, it's just removing the spark plug, disconnecting relevant connections, having your help floor your car (WOT) then crank for ~5 secs while you note the number on the gauge. There may be specifics, however I've yet to perform the test on my miata, so the generals are all I can provide. (Hey, write a how-to, heh).
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09-11-2006, 11:33 PM
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Order does not matter. Really, it's just removing the spark plug, disconnecting relevant connections, having your help floor your car (WOT) then crank for ~5 secs while you note the number on the gauge. There may be specifics, however I've yet to perform the test on my miata, so the generals are all I can provide. (Hey, write a how-to, heh).
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09-12-2006, 02:33 PM
#40
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, I could'nt be happier than a kid in a candy store
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