ah, so it is. hehe. Nice, I just read about half of that. ...the FP on the regulator is a good idea?

 

well it's just required to tune it initally. You need to adjust your idle pressure and rise pressure. the only way to do that is with a gauge. Once it is set you'd remove the gauge.

 

Oh, I know, I mean, on the regulator or somewhere else in the engine bay?

 

Check at the base of the CAS and the valve cover. A lot of rear main seal leaks come from higher up and run down the block coming out the base at the bell housing- looking like a rear main seal.

 

the CAS is on the passanger side, kinda right below the valve cover right? haven't messed with this sensor yet.

 

Not really turbo related but I just ordered some Konis....which I need badly. Hopefully some FM springs...FCM mounts and bumpstops are comming soon...

 

Koni + FCM + FM =

 

thats what I'm hoping...I'm on stock shocks...blown to heck...and I blow the doors off local guys in the mtns up here. I really want to see what this car can do with the right suspension.

 

I got my t25 yesterday....looks pretty good, fins are PERFECT...gotta get the part #s and rebuild it soon...progress is comming slowly...

Konis are in, FM springs are on there way....

 

Mazdaspeed Motor mounts should be here tommorrow...and going in on thursday...x.X

thinking about taking the AC out then too. the AC radiator thingy...thats completely separate from radiator?...trying to figure out what all I can take off.

 

Whaddya mean "part #'s"? Just buy one of the generic T25 rebuild kits off eBay. I've taken three of them apart now, and this kit includes every single part of the turbo except the 3 housing and the shaft/wheels. It even replaces the snap-rings and the turbine housing c-shaped backing plates with the 4 bolts that hold them in place.
http://www.gpopshop.com/garrettt2kits.html

 

the older t25s and the newer t25s had some slight difference dynamic vs carbon seal?

I think its a newer one from a redtop sr20...but i just want to make sure

 

alright...after chirstmas time I'm getting this bitch back on track...figure I'll find another car if need be...should be up and running early summer


In a day or so I'll update what I want to do...should be close to Samnavy's stuff...his works...so will mine

 

Your turbo will have to be hella old to have carbon seals. Your SR20 T25 takes a Dynamic Kit. I called GPop about the kit for my own SR20 T25 and that's what he told me.

 

^ Thanks, I found that out also, and I never did get pics of my turbo, not having a digital camera blows lol x.X

Come January...I'm back on track...having trouble deciding what clutch I want to go with.

 

Well...I sat down today and started looking at stuff I still need...and the list isn't short or cheap:
Also updated the main post

Need:
Bov - Prolly go the bosch + check valve method for a while
Begi Manifold - ~450
Begi Downpipe - ~300 for mild steel
Clutch - ACT Stg 1 - ~$300
AFPR - BEGI? $200-300 not sure
Walbro 190lph HP - ~$85 bucks
Bipes ~ $225
Lines, gauges, hoses - $$$?
Tires - 215/45/16 Azenis ~$450
O2 Clamp? - $?
Wideband? Might be safe ~$260

Is there a huge difference in mild steel vs SS?
What FPR can I get that will give me the least about of problems?
Those tires look alright? 215/45/16 azenis on 16x7 wheels?
I'm missing a bunch of stuff but thats the most I can think off.


Just out of curiosity, would it mess me up if I ran a new fuel pump, 1.8 injectors and my RX-7 AFM for a while NA or is it not recommended?

 

You should be just fine. The MAF and the injectors will kind of cancel each other out.

 

thats kinda what I thought, I'm just trying to get everything I can done over Christmas break...clutch, fuel system stuff...since I've already put my suspension stuff on, and the brakes seem...decent. lol.