My latest coolant reroute
07-21-2009, 01:14 PM
#61
I like Stein's idea. That would be a good way to go about doing it. Since when do you need the heater to be on during a track day? Unless you've got the heater cranked all the way up hoping to displace some of the heat through the heater core to cool the coolant temp. I dont know, in my Dart there was an original shut off valve on the right front fender well, and that was inline with the inlet to the heater core. During summer time youd shut if off so there was no hot coolant coming into the car. Granted its not there anymore, nor is the heater...lol I took all that out, heater core, blower motor...all of it...worth a good 30 pounds or so...
or as he said...
"Or, tell the NOOB to shut up and stick with things that he has a clue about."
lol my ¢.02
or as he said...
"Or, tell the NOOB to shut up and stick with things that he has a clue about."
lol my ¢.02
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07-21-2009, 01:43 PM
#62
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Yeah I think someone talked about the method Stein describes once before so it is a valid idea if I understand what you are getting at.
Or there is another similar variant that has been discussed. You take the heater core output flow and run it into a 3-way ball valve:
- Output #1 from the ball valve goes to a tee placed in the lower radiator hose.
- Output #2 from the ball valve goes to a tee in the upper radiator hose.
- Select Output#1 for DD mode. That emulates the stock mixing manifold.
- Select Output #2 for track days if your car starts overheating. That emulates one of the BEGI reroute setups.
That would work fine too IMO. In fact, my setup is basically Output #2 on all the time, with a t-stat regulating the heater core flow to prevent 'overcooling' when the car is not being driven hard.
I also looked briefly for a three-way thermostat (they are out there) that would replace the three-way ball-valve described above and do the flow redirection automatically. It uses a paraffin actuator just like a regular thermostat; it is just three-way flow instead of flow regulating.
Wilson disregarding the colors on your diagrams, take the third image, reverse the flow arrows on the turbo and oil cooler circuits, and you have it right.
Or there is another similar variant that has been discussed. You take the heater core output flow and run it into a 3-way ball valve:
- Output #1 from the ball valve goes to a tee placed in the lower radiator hose.
- Output #2 from the ball valve goes to a tee in the upper radiator hose.
- Select Output#1 for DD mode. That emulates the stock mixing manifold.
- Select Output #2 for track days if your car starts overheating. That emulates one of the BEGI reroute setups.
That would work fine too IMO. In fact, my setup is basically Output #2 on all the time, with a t-stat regulating the heater core flow to prevent 'overcooling' when the car is not being driven hard.
I also looked briefly for a three-way thermostat (they are out there) that would replace the three-way ball-valve described above and do the flow redirection automatically. It uses a paraffin actuator just like a regular thermostat; it is just three-way flow instead of flow regulating.
Wilson disregarding the colors on your diagrams, take the third image, reverse the flow arrows on the turbo and oil cooler circuits, and you have it right.
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07-21-2009, 02:01 PM
#63
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I'd been sleeping with this girl for a few weeks, and things were getting experimental. She was into ---- beads, so one night she whipped out a bottle of lube and a strand. We started doing it doggy style, and she told me to massage her bad place with the lube. Once it was nice and greasy, I started feeding the beads into her butt, one by one. It was so cool. We started doing it doggy again, and as each of us got closer to climaxing she told me to pull the beads out. Only she didn’t specify that I should pull them out slowly, and I gave the string a tug like I was rip-starting a lawn mower. I’m still trying to block out what happened next. Let’s just say there was a loud noise, some poop, and a lot of anger involved. That was my one and only experiment with butt love.
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07-21-2009, 02:11 PM
#65
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But now someone has had the commonsense to indicate flow I now understand your system. I'd be happy with a kit that does that although I'm still not sure whether a dual thermostat design is best. Perhaps Oilcooler and turbo going through the heater core in seperate loop until mixer would aid your cold texas winters more than this.
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07-21-2009, 02:36 PM
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I'd been sleeping with this chap for a few weeks, and things were getting experimental. He was into ---- beads, so one night he whipped out a bottle of lube and a strand. We started doing it doggy style, and he told me to massage dis bad place with the lube. Once it was nice and greasy, I started feeding the beads into his butt, one by one. It was so cool. As each of us got closer to climaxing he told me to pull the beads out. Only he didn’t specify that I should pull them out slowly, and I gave the string a tug like I was rip-starting a lawn mower. I’m still trying to block out what happened next. Let’s just say there was a loud noise, some poop, and a lot of anger involved. That was my one and only experiment with ---- beads.
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07-21-2009, 04:52 PM
#69
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If so, what is the option for a two postion valve on the infeed line to the heater core? Switch it to bypass on the track days so coolant still flows through the lines to keep the thermostat happy but doesn't see the heater core. Reposition it to the other position and it would be like a normal reroute but still flows through the heater core for a DD car. If you want to be really baller, you could rig it to be cable actuated in the cockpit. (Or forgetful and can switch it on track when you forget to do it in the paddock like I would.)
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t28985-2/#post338874
and here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35890/#post416981
And I have put this in practice here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t35890-2/#post422761
Emilio also suggest that you restrict the heater return to 5/8" for some of the same effect.
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07-24-2009, 02:23 AM
#70
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I will take an unpopular position and say you should take the heater flow out of the front of the head so that it purges the hot water in the "corner" there, keeping it from dwelling at the front of the head. Look for my Volvo radiator conversion to see how I did it.
If I decide I want to mess around with restricting the flow, I'll stick a Civic heater valve in my bag of bolts at the pick your part on half price day and walk out with it as part of my $40 of hardware for $3 deal. But since a 5/8" circle has 1/4 the area of a 5/4" circle and flows even less, I don't think I'll have an issue.
BTW, I looked at about four different aftermarket thermostats in auto parts stores. Ended up going OE. I believe it's that much better.
If I decide I want to mess around with restricting the flow, I'll stick a Civic heater valve in my bag of bolts at the pick your part on half price day and walk out with it as part of my $40 of hardware for $3 deal. But since a 5/8" circle has 1/4 the area of a 5/4" circle and flows even less, I don't think I'll have an issue.
BTW, I looked at about four different aftermarket thermostats in auto parts stores. Ended up going OE. I believe it's that much better.
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07-24-2009, 05:10 AM
#71
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I will take an unpopular position and say you should take the heater flow out of the front of the head so that it purges the hot water in the "corner" there, keeping it from dwelling at the front of the head. Look for my Volvo radiator conversion to see how I did it.
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