Nb turbo build
#1
Nb turbo build
Been building this lately. All fab is done parts are off to be powder coated.
specs are 2001 type rs bp6d engine. Running a megasquirt pnp for an earlier 99-00 with a patch loom adapter (got it so cheap $300) no vvt control yet.
going to be using pink sti injectors for fueling.
hope to make 150-175kw
specs are 2001 type rs bp6d engine. Running a megasquirt pnp for an earlier 99-00 with a patch loom adapter (got it so cheap $300) no vvt control yet.
going to be using pink sti injectors for fueling.
hope to make 150-175kw
#6
Been getting as much time as I can tuning this beast. Really impressed with the mspnp. Have dabbled with megasquirt before but that was an old ms1 custom everything on a Holden Gemini with a turbo Isuzu piazza 4ZC1 engine had heaps of issues with noise etc.
This project has been a breeze to get running and tune so far. Spent some time today on cranking starting and idle control only in open loop happy with my results cranks starts and tapers down to 900rpm (hot) idle really nice.
my after start enrichments are really low because it was fouling spark plugs after starting maybe because of the 565cc injectors not sure anyway it’s running awesome!!
This project has been a breeze to get running and tune so far. Spent some time today on cranking starting and idle control only in open loop happy with my results cranks starts and tapers down to 900rpm (hot) idle really nice.
my after start enrichments are really low because it was fouling spark plugs after starting maybe because of the 565cc injectors not sure anyway it’s running awesome!!
#8
I’m really happy with the way it looks few bits to tidy up over my Christmas break. Intercooler/radiator cover, install and wire red Audi coils, tidy up ecu loom and wire up gauges in the cabin.
intake temps are between 5-8’C above ambient when moving. Ambient has been 25-27’C lately it sits around 30-35’C actually stays at its lowest when I’m hard on boost. It defiantly gets heat soaked when idling can see as much as 45’C it comes down quickly once car starts moving.
intake temps are between 5-8’C above ambient when moving. Ambient has been 25-27’C lately it sits around 30-35’C actually stays at its lowest when I’m hard on boost. It defiantly gets heat soaked when idling can see as much as 45’C it comes down quickly once car starts moving.
#9
Well I broke it😂 was so happy on 10psi had the tune awesome only cruze and decell were bit lean, in boost was perfect but I decided for more boost 15psi only got maybe 50km. Knew I shouldn’t but hey🤷♂️ Bent number 2 conrod😂 after a good boost against another car (I won just) I notice a big end noise I limped it home was only about 4km. Has low compression on number 2.
#15
Ok so stuff I had on this weekend got postponed until next weekend. So I went and got the car that has the BP engine I intended on building as in forging etc. it’s a JDM spec Mazda Astina 323 GT.
It was at my Dads farm about hour and a half away so was a mission to get it home. I’ve stripped the engine down because odometer in the car was little over 300000. I believe it’s been rebuilt at some stage because there’s a heap of assembly engravings that don’t look factory.
Bearings look great as well as the crank. Block is standard bore with no lip and can clearly still see the hone pattern.
My question is, are these blocks identical? As in everything will bolt on no holes to drill and tap etc . If so I can drop it in at an engine shop this week to check it over and clean it up. Otherwise I have to wait until after I’ve pulled my engine which could be week or two be great if short block was ready to go. Just trying to speed it up got withdrawals already😂
The pistons are in great shape also using them should bring my compression to 9:1 rather than the 10.5:1 my type RS engine was so much more turbo friendly.
It was at my Dads farm about hour and a half away so was a mission to get it home. I’ve stripped the engine down because odometer in the car was little over 300000. I believe it’s been rebuilt at some stage because there’s a heap of assembly engravings that don’t look factory.
Bearings look great as well as the crank. Block is standard bore with no lip and can clearly still see the hone pattern.
My question is, are these blocks identical? As in everything will bolt on no holes to drill and tap etc . If so I can drop it in at an engine shop this week to check it over and clean it up. Otherwise I have to wait until after I’ve pulled my engine which could be week or two be great if short block was ready to go. Just trying to speed it up got withdrawals already😂
The pistons are in great shape also using them should bring my compression to 9:1 rather than the 10.5:1 my type RS engine was so much more turbo friendly.
#16
I have been swapping 1.6 L Miata vs 323 GT blocks back and forth many times. They all have the same mounting holes, you just have to clean up the threads of the ones that are not used because they are full of dirt and rust. The 1.8 L Miata look just the same as the 1.6 L Miata from the side, except for length of course. So you should have no trouble with all the mounting points on the block itself.
The pistons will be lower compression than the Miata, but the connecting rods are probably stronger, They certainly are in the 1.6 L 323 GT.
The heads and the oil pans are different. You have to use the "car correct" oil pan, oil pickup, etc. And the 2001 and up bolts the windage tray to the main bearing caps, while earlier models do not. Of course, you can simply not bolt it in place, that worked on all the earlier models.
You might be able to use the 323 head, but there could be some fitment issues with the intake manifold, and with the valve timing sensor, which moved around a lot over the years. You can certainly swap the Miata head onto the 323 block. On the 1.6 L you can use a Miata intake on the 323 GT, but to use the 323 intake you have to use the 323 valve cover.
The pistons will be lower compression than the Miata, but the connecting rods are probably stronger, They certainly are in the 1.6 L 323 GT.
The heads and the oil pans are different. You have to use the "car correct" oil pan, oil pickup, etc. And the 2001 and up bolts the windage tray to the main bearing caps, while earlier models do not. Of course, you can simply not bolt it in place, that worked on all the earlier models.
You might be able to use the 323 head, but there could be some fitment issues with the intake manifold, and with the valve timing sensor, which moved around a lot over the years. You can certainly swap the Miata head onto the 323 block. On the 1.6 L you can use a Miata intake on the 323 GT, but to use the 323 intake you have to use the 323 valve cover.
#19
Sourcing parts locally of good quality seems to be an issue. Have managed to sort acl race bearings eventually not cheap! Blaming covid for the cost😂 gaskets and seals tho wanted genuine can’t justify the cost and the wait time (6 weeks) so I’ve gone after market will be here this week under half cost of genuine.
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 213
Total Cats: 67
Sourcing parts locally of good quality seems to be an issue. Have managed to sort acl race bearings eventually not cheap! Blaming covid for the cost😂 gaskets and seals tho wanted genuine can’t justify the cost and the wait time (6 weeks) so I’ve gone after market will be here this week under half cost of genuine.
I’m in Australia and bought parts from all sorts of places for my engine build.
Lots of people seem to have poor results with non genuine seals.