I’ve experienced non genuine seals myself in the past. Not Mx5 on a 98 wrx didn’t cut any corners with the internal bits forged everything quality bearings etc but went cheap on seal and gasket kits. Couldn’t get rocker covers to seal at all they leaked on the engine stand they where that bad😳. Ended up using old ones which never leaked even after another 30k before I sold it. I wanted genuine but wait is to long head gasket is quality tho was able to source quality there.

 

Only use OEM rubber seals in the miata motor. I have used just about every off brand out there over the last 15 years. The vast majority of them have leaked on me. It sucks to have to go back in and swap leaking RMS or crank seal after a week.

 

Granted I don't have much time for my track project since I am a full time student and working, but my build has been set back 5 months at this point due to using non OEM seals in my fully built engine. In the first 2k miles, I developed rear and front main leaks, and both oil pan moon seals leaked. After pulling the trans twice + FMS + currently dropping the subframe, Ill basically pay/wait whatever is needed for OEM in the future.

Food for thought.

 

Poor thing😂

 

Mx5 on top astina 323 below. Although all parts will swap between blocks there are small differences with all of them except rear main seal housing they are identical.

flywheel at a glance is identical but measuring it up the ring gear is offset 5mm further away from clutch face than the Mx5 so won’t work. Clutch fits perfectly tho.

can confirm blocks are identical except 323 block has taped and blanked oil and water on the rear of the exhaust side of the block. Mx5 block is completely blank there.

 

That makes sense. On the two bosses on the MX5 1.8 L block you can drill into them to create the oil and coolant feeds for the turbo. The coolant feed, a wee bit more towars the front of the engine is easy to drill, you just need to be careful that the drill and tap do not continue deeper into the sidewall of cylinder 4. The oil feed is more nerve wracking, and needs a long bit. It goes in about half way across the block before it contacts an internal oil feed. Feed air into the main bearing oil line while drilling to find out when you have broken through. Or don't and feed oil from the cold side like most people do.

But of you are using the 323 block, then wonderful, you have a local oil and coolant feed for the turbo.

 

Found a difference with the blocks. This is the 91 323 block at the top right there is a threaded boss in the block just below in the water pump there is a hole in the 2001 miata block there is a threaded boss to match this. The 323 water pump is threaded it’s for the cam belt tensioner. I’m assuming this was a weak point and remedied over the years. My miata pump is only 10000ks old so I want to use it there’s room for a nut in there. I would source a new 323 pump as they are identical besides this tensioner bolt hole if my pump wasn’t so new.

 

Interesting difference. I imagine the reason is what you say.

I agree, you should be able to get away with a nut. But it won't be as well centered as it would be with a bolt into the threaded 323 pump, or into the block behind the pump.

So you will want to think about which way the rotating belt forces are working on the tensioner, and position the bolt within the hole so it butts up against the side of the through-hole that the tensioner is being pushed or pulled toward.

 

It’s alive again only issue I have is the an fitting on the oil return has failed and won’t tighten so it’s leaking.

only done about 50 ks so far but all seems well! Was expecting much more lag with only 9:1 compression but doesn’t seem to bad.

 

Next upgrade should be a set of 15" rims - trust me as the owner of an MSM, going from the OEM 17" Racing Hart rims to smaller 15" rims makes the ride MUCH more comfortable, you don't get the **** jarred out of you when you hit a small pothole, don't need as much power to accelerate, improves the car's handling, tyres are MUCH cheaper and you have more tyre options.

 

Small rims is on the cards, want to re-paint this year and get the turbo build certified as well lots to spend haha.

looking at black rims or black with polished lip. Also want to black out few bits on the car

 

A month turnaround time from blown motor to a fresh one, props on the speed and success!

 

I’m pretty motivated it’s mainly the fact I turned the boost up when I shouldn’t have that motivated me I was kicking myself now I feel better😂

my poor Holden Gemini been sitting for about five years with a half finished diff conversion now I’ve robbed the oil return off it. It’s a cool car need to put my motivation into it this year it made 300hp on 20psi just before I started the diff conversion.

 

Does compression ratio affect fuel requirements? I’ve had to add 8cells to the ve table to get the idle down to 14:1 from 17:1. Only had to add 4 to most of the rest to get it close going to need to fine tune again. It’s strange to me nothing changed engine wise except compression ratio from 10.5:1 to 9:1🤔

 

Compression = more air which requires = more fuel. I wouldnt be fussed about it, just tune it until the ratio is good.

 

Yeah I’m not fussed working on it everyday driving it for work and it’s going well.

 

Only done about 300km so far want 1000 for run in so started finishing off other bits installed Audi coils this weekend next is finish of intercooler/radiator mount and cover. Going to make a custom tank that houses the coolant over flow and washer fluid as well.

 

Been awhile since posting added few bits. Currently running 11psi goes really well love the pnp Megasquirt. Dyno next but nearest dyno to me is 1 1/2 hours away😢

 

Factory bottom mounts I am making up a cover for the top that hides the intercooler and radiator as well as mounting it. And yes factory fans still fit

 

that enginebay is very clean! Nice!
How did the block turn out after bending the rod? not salvagable?