Big not to self, wear long sleeve shirt during extended sessions of welding. I have crucial sunburn all over my forearms. Not to mention ridiculous farmer's tan on my upper arms.

 

nice , reminds me of my first welds lol do you use gas or shielded wire?

 

Its just flux core. I'm to lazy to go fill my tank, way to lazy. I like to think its pretty decent considering its flux core.

 

Lookin' good

 

haha sunburn. buy yourself a cheap welding jacket. prevents sunburn and spatter burns.

looks good. which muffler is that?

 

Or just wear a long sleeve shirt silly. No need to buy anything. Silly buns!

 

What you want are a pair of gloves just for welding, leather outer, insulation in between and cotton lining, you can pick something VERY hot up with those for a short time. Plus, they are long and protect most of your forearms. I once baked my entire face by welding... was unrecognisable from all the swelling!

 

5x8x18 magnafow.

 

Got home today, installed knock sensor, ran wires for IAT and knock sensors, ran vacuum hose, plugged laptop into adaptronic, loaded up NA8 ecu file from travis's zip file. Changed engine type to B6 and cranked it over. Started right up! Not I'm going back outside to hook up the LC1 and take some logs. So far it idles decently, except once it starts getting warmed up the idle begins to oscillate. Possibly do to the fan always being on. Not sure why its doing that currently, the fan is not jumpered or anything.

 

Gratz!

 

hook up your lc1 and tune your idle mixture. it's probably off and causing oscillation.

 

Got the LC1 roughly wired in and calibrated. Adaptronic officially pwns noobs. Idle is already about perfect. I'm using the NA 1.8L basemap travis includes with the zip so it is off for my 1.6. I'm going to trow in my 550cc (flow 590cc) injectors tomorrow and just start tuning those.

 

Looking like a good build!

 

At the rate this is going, Travis will owe you a commission check. I'm waiting and watching.

 

I just PM'd Stein to see if he will email me the ecu file he has for his car with the deastch 600cc injectors. I figure they are close enough that I can tune from for mine, ~590cc rx7 injectors. I'll just change the engine type and the injectors to peak/hold. Should work out perfectly.

I also hooked up a NB knock sensor. There is a spot at the bottom of the block just over the oil pan, in front of the engine mount that has the correct threading. I made a loom with wires for it and my IAT which is very close by on the cold side by the IC. Used bullet connectors for both sensors so that the ecu and harness are easily removable. Everything worked right away. The output of the knock sensor can be seen clearly and is working great. Once I have a basemap that I can drive around on I will get the fuel roughly tuned, long knock and set up that baseline graph. Then it will be time to put the ign autotune to work. I'm pretty excited. Should be making around 250whp by the end of the weekend.

 

Update:

I took the car for a drive on Wednesday. Was running great, then out of no where I smelled brake fluid and on a sweeping left turn I saw smoke. I pulled over and my turbine and dp were red hot. Also my brake reservoir was completely melted. My first instinct was my timing. I wasn't knocking but something must be wrong. So I looked and the ecu file I was using from Stein went from 30 adv at 60kpa down to 18adv at 80 and 100 kpa. A huge drop in adv before even hitting boost.

Well the next day I put in all the values from Scott's timing map and went to a yard to pick up a replacement res. Got it swapped, burnt the new settings, also wrapped my dp, heater hoses, and entire master cylinder and res in exhaust wrap. Went for a drive and got into boosta couple times to redline. Pulled over immediately to look at the turbine ans dp. No red in sight, egt issue solved timing good. Also, no knock at all in the log.

When I got home I took a close look at everything to make sure that I had the heat issue solved. WRONG!!!! The new res had a melted lid and the body of it had melted inward and become brittle enough from heat to break. So I now knew that my turbine and dp were high enough, and close enough, to be causing major issues due to radiant heat.

Today I got yet another replacement reservoir, and also fabricated a heatshield. Its like a friggin box. It surrounds the entire thing. To have even more insurance I purchased the following and will get it tomorrow, Design Engineering DEI 010141 - DEI T3 Turbo Titanium Heat Shield Kits – SummitRacing.com . Burschur Racing did a test with it back in Dec last year. On the dyno it lowered the turbine temps from almost 700F down to 250F just by strapping it on. To top it off, it was cool enough to touch within 1 minute. I figure that on the turbine and then cover that with my heatshield pictured below and I will be able to put a cold beverage on top without worrying about it heating up.

 

Got the Turbo blanket today as well as my 9k front springs for the Flex's. I went ahead and put the blanket on the and wrapped the dp. Afterward I put the heatshield on top, although I don't have pics of that. You will also see that I took some reflective sleeving and put it around the heater core hoses. This will help stop the radiant heat from causing them to fail.

Well it has completely cured my radiant heat issues. While even the AL heatshield gets hot enough you can't touch it, the temperature of the air immediately off of it is not much higher than ambient. So it is effectively reflecting almost all of the heat.

I also went ahead and hooked up the wg arm and tightened it a little. I am hitting 10psi at around 3200rpm and it creeps up a little from there. I need to mess with the ebc settings in WARI next. I'm currently just using what stein already had in his ecu file and WG (ebc log in WARI) starts going up from 0 as soon as I hit boost. I assume this means that the ebc is opening right away, which I don't want.

 

So, good and bad news.

First with the bad, The top bend of my dp that I made was causing a major restriction because it was to sharp of a bend. The effect of the cause was my dp heating up to ridiculously high temps. Remember that exhaust wrap I put on my dp in my last post, the stuff that can withstand 1800F of direct contact heat continuously? Well the part wrapped around the sharp bend was charred BLACK. It desintagrated on contact with my finger. Naturally I was concerned about this, even though my spool wasn't greatly affected and my heatshield was controlling radiant heat. The point is I wanted to eliminate the issue to prevent any future....meltdowns....

So I have a few options:
1) Cut the wing on the shelf back to the firewall similar to v8 swap guys. This would give me room to have a smooth 90deg bend.
2) Go to EWG and cut off the IWG housing and weld a vband directly to the housing. This would be ideal, better boost control and no cutting.

Then, after looking at the manifold for like 15min it hit me.... Why did ETD make this a top mount? They state on their site that it was made this way so that any size turbo can fit in the miata. While that's great I plan on sticking with my T3 and maxing it out. It should get me the 300whp I want. SO, I sought out to see if I could flip the manifold and make it a bottom mount.

To test it out I removed the middle stud and then made tiny tiny notches for two other studs so I could slip the manifold on upside down.

WELL, IT FITS!!!! I am going to find a good welder locally, hopefully, and have them use a bandsaw to cut the runners flush at the flange, flip it over, and reweld. I am going to keep the vband thing on and I welded the flapper shut. I ordered a Tial 38mm MVS vband EWG and it will be here on Friday. This weekend I will remake the top section of dp and should be able to make it nearly a straight shot along the tranny.

Who knows, instead of hitting boost target at 3300rpm maybe I can break into 2XXX rpm. Here's to hoping

 

Nice thinking man, that should work perfectly
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wouldn't you want more than 2 bolts on each end holding the manifold on?