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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 07-14-2009, 11:45 PM   #41
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You are an idiot, did you even read the post?

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I am going to find a good welder locally, hopefully, and have them use a bandsaw to cut the runners flush at the flange, flip it over, and reweld.
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Old 07-14-2009, 11:52 PM   #42
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Reading is fundamental.
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:48 AM   #43
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Low mount FTW.

Going down usually gives good results.

How many more ways can Hustler say it?
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Old 07-15-2009, 03:27 AM   #44
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I agree, nice thinking on flipping the mani over, it'll give you a lower mount and better routing for DP.

If I had to venture a guess, and thats all I'm doing.. They made it top mount to clear power steering, which you no longer have.
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Old 07-15-2009, 08:01 AM   #45
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im likeing this build so far...


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Originally Posted by SolarYellow510 View Post

Going down usually gives good results.
lol! its does indeed .
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:58 PM   #46
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wow dude thanks for being an ******* you said nothing about adding more bolt locations. you just said "have a welder reweld a flange for your vband"
jesus all i did was ask a question...
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:04 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oops2low View Post
wow dude thanks for being an ******* you said nothing about adding more bolt locations. you just said "have a welder reweld a flange for your vband"
jesus all i did was ask a question...

he's cutting off the head flange off the manifold, then he's flipping it over and rewelding it back into the runners. this way all the bolt holes line up perfectly again....just like he stated.
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:05 PM   #48
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:11 PM   #49
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Glad you're getting back into it man, I just went through the thread. You need to get that tank filled, you know its worth it lazy *** :P
Find a welder worth your while yet?
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:28 PM   #50
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I'm using y8s 110V Lincoln. Its a great little unit. I'm going to get the tank flled tomorrow or friday actually. I went to a couple performance shops today after work and they all kept giving me the run around about how hard it would be and that they could cut it flush because of blah blah blah.

So I went to the local machine shop thats been in town for ages. You know the kind with all the good ol boys that have been doing machine work since they were in high school and now they are all 50+. I showed it to them said exactly how I wanted it cut, and the guy was like "I'll call you tomorrow when its done". Will charge me like $40 for 1/2hr of work.

Since all the shops are giving me a hard time I will just prep and weld it myself. I feel confident in my ability after the experience of welding the whole exhaust. I do want to do it right though so I'm going to use shielding gas. Hopefully I can get it right with matt's ghetto regulator with no gauge on it lol.
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:22 PM   #51
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Well, I picked up the cut manifold from the machine shop today. They did the perfect job. I turned the manifold onto the flange and the runners lined up perfectly still. Being impatient, I turned up the heat to max on the welder and just went ahead an flux cored it. Watching the bead as I welded I have zero worries as to the penetration. It is just as strong as before I had it cut. I also got the 38mm 2 bolt to 38mm vband adapter that I had bought from ATP turbo. Originally I was going to just bolt it on, but instead I just cut off the wings, cut off the original 2 bolt flange on the manifold, and welded that bitch on. I am going into work late tomorrow so that I can drop off the manifold to be resurfaced tomorrow. I'll pick it back up after work.

Assuming it doesn't rain or anything tomorrow, I am going to go ahead and fix the dp to the turbo section. The Tial will arrive on Sat and I will finish the dp then. Once I get the dp done on Friday I will get working on the heatercore return reroute. As you can see in the pics I just flipped it 180deg. I plan to use the original hard pipe along with sections of straight heater hose. It will take a 90deg turn up from the inlet and a straight section to the vc. Then it will take a 90deg turn toward the firewall and another straight section of heater hose will run the rest of the length. I will attach it to the vc at the front and rear vc bolts and secure it with those 1 bolt hose clamp things that i dont know the name of. Eventually I would like to have a nice hard pipe in place of everything, but until then this plan will work. To secure the oring fitting side of the return into the inlet I will think of something....
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:28 PM   #52
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killer! you should coat it with this **** to disguise your welds.

VHT FlameProof™ Coating
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:33 PM   #53
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Meh, I'm not even worried about it. And the welds are not bad, its just the shitty iphone camera FTL.
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:36 PM   #54
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dude, that's awesome. Good job man.
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:08 PM   #55
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As you know by now, I'm not one to rest. I was at my friends PC shop hanging out until he closed at 7 and then came home. The sun was still out and it never started raining so I decided to get to work. Got the dp finished except for finish welding. I will get the heater return sorted tomorrow and then I'm one the path to boost come Sat.

As you can see below, the new dp is MUCH better than the previous version. It has no bend greater than 45deg. I can already smell the boost!
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:47 PM   #56
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THAT'S what I'm talkin about. not going to melt anythng now. btw, I told you so
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Old 07-16-2009, 11:51 PM   #57
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do yourself a favor and cut off the cam-gear covers. That way you can see if you jumped a tooth and it makes a timing belt job take about 30-minutes, not 2-hours.
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Old 07-17-2009, 12:04 AM   #58
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I actually ordered a capri vc and it will be here next week. It doesn't cover the cam gears at all.

If you were refering to my dp buring everything in site, I can tell you that it is not EGT's. My manifold and turbine have never glowed at all. It was the top bend of my original dp that glowed and burnt up any exhaust wrap I could put on it. My timing is dead on as verified with a timing light.
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:51 AM   #59
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FWIW, I have a top mount Greddy turbo and manifold, with a 2.5" down pipe. There's a similar sharp turn right at the beginning. I have the Bowser heat shield that's actually touching the now larger down pipe right at said bend, and I have had zero issues even at the track. My heater lines have that fire hose type stuff on them and that's it.
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:27 AM   #60
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That bend that I made did not have a smooth outside radius. It had a little bit of a corner to it that was likely reflecting the pulses backward. Also the inside radius of that top turn is 0. It was not a smooth transition. I'm sure if you posted a pic of your greddy dp the top turn is surely much smoother, and also not nearly a 180deg turn down.

Plus, regardless of the aformentioned glowing dp issue. The new setup is much improved and only cost me a total of $250ish extra. Well worth the cost.
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