cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

No you don't. Once you install the heatshield you'll never see it again.

posidon42

iTrader: (4)

Not sure I agree with that. I could see more than half of my manifold with the FM heatshield installed. That is why it bothered me so much. If it was hidden, I wouldn't have cared.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

That was a general statement made on my part. I decided I don't give a f*#k what the manifold looks like. It's not going to rust out or anything like that, the heatshield I plan to make is going to cover most everything I want it to. When you're putting 300 to the wheels the rust color of your manifold isn't that big of a deal. At least that's my thoughts, just have to make it to 300 now.

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

I really couldn't give too much care of what mine looks like either, but if you went through (don't know if you did or not, I did however..) and cleaned up everything else removing all sorts of junk not needed, pretty valve cover, etc... Why have something that looks like complete *** sitting over there?

Stephanie Turner

I plan to take my uncoated manifold off and re-coat it. It looks better. I can see it, even with the heatshield on. Just a personal preference.

As for the ceramic coating, we do not coat the inside. Too many potential problems.

Take this opinion knowing who taught me his opinion of how it he thinks it should be done. The casting exterior is fine. The small pits are very typical of an iron casting. The coating could look nicer, but that is typical of black. The inside of the turbine outlet casting looks OK. I would be concerned about the area of 'slag' or 'overlap' in the w/g vent area. Either is was not cleaned off well, or it is a potential crack. Probably not cleaned well, as the rest of the castings are not cleaned off well on the inside either. Nor were they surfaced very well. If you notice the surface marks are mostly horizontal, but go in every direction. Most milling machines leave an arced footprint.
Stephanie

posidon42

iTrader: (4)

so what do you suggest I use to clean this up? I think it is a little beyond my dremel skills That and I think it would take $30 worth of bits to clean it all up.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Carbide bit in a die grinder.

posidon42

iTrader: (4)

true. After getting rid of the casting marks, any suggestions on some less aggressive methods to polish the interior? Some of those nooks and crannies are going to be hard to get to. I was thinking of something like one of those buff ball things, only made of metal.

elesjuan

iTrader: (11)

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...emType=PRODUCT

Uses tightly rolled strips of sand paper. They also have an arbor with a slit in it where you can use free strips of sand paper. I bought the pair of those to port and polish the cylinder head for my old Turbo 2.3 ford. Worked perfectly, just need a good air source and a die grinder.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

I couldn't install it w/o cleaning it up - no way.

posidon42

iTrader: (4)

I have no plans on doing so. I am also pondering taking Corky up on his offer to enlarge the wastegate on my turbo since it will be off the car.

Stephanie Turner

We use a 36 grit, coarse, aluminum oxide, cartridge to clean these up. A dremel is probably to small. But a die grinder will work great. But do not use a die grinder on the flange surfaces.

If you are sending us the turbo, send the manifold too. We can clean it up and re-surface it.
Stephanie

posidon42

iTrader: (4)

oh... so tempting... I am trying not to disconnect all of the tubes from the car while I am taking the manifold out, but having a professional do the machining may make me change my mind. Once it got to you, how long do you think it would take to get it back? Also, the manifold and outlet casting aren't connected to the turbo right now. Should I reassemble it then send it off, or send it disassembled?

Stephanie Turner

Sending it disassembled will be easier. We will take it apart any way. Should take one or two days to complete. Depends on what is on the milling machine that day.
Stephanie

posidon42

iTrader: (4)

ok, I can't figure out how to get this manifold off the turbo. One of the nuts appears to be completely stripped beyond removing and neither a 12mm, 13mm or 1/2 really seem to be the right size. And the other one I have no idea how to take off. Any thoughts?

http://picasaweb.google.com/steaven.meyer/FMManifold

posidon42

iTrader: (4)

Ok, I got it off but I had to practically disassemble the turbo to do it. Man, there is a lot of stuff attached to that thing. I am currently doing some research into buying some a port and polish kit. I am going to practice on the one I am taking off the car first.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

For stripped bolt heads use a bolt extractor. It's a socket that screws onto the outside of the bolt head. It is tapered, so as it screws on, it gets a strong grip. Craftsman sells a set of 5 for 30 bucks I think, or you can rent them at Autozone.

Corky Bell

I would not worry about some ceramic flaking and passing through the turbine. I don't think it would even tickle its tummy.

We do machine every port on every manifold. The question always comes up of how much to do, how elaborate, and when does such work become PR rather than real performance. Damn judgement calls............

Corky Bell

I would not worry about some flaking ceramic messing up a turbine. I doubt it will even tickle its tummy.

We do machine every port of every manifold. It remains a constant problem to decide when one is improving performance or just doing PR work. Damn judgement calls....

posidon42

iTrader: (4)

well I couldn't find anyplace to buy the sanding disks and grinding wheels for the die grinder locally, so I am considering that a sign. I have a PM out to stephanie for instructions on how to send this to you. Right now the turbo is in two parts. Do you need the whole thing or just the impeller housing with the wastegate?