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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-26-2007, 12:20 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by TunerToys View Post
Yep. $219 for that is pretty steep. What about the rails available from **********? At $139, they are quite a bit cheaper than the FM version. They are certainly not as "pretty" as the FM rail, but does anyone have any experience with them?

Craig
Did I mention someone I was not supposed to and got edited?
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:24 AM   #22
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maybe it auto-edited it?

Anywho...welcome.
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:26 AM   #23
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Who is the retailer, make it spaced out or something with dashes. Anything.
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:29 AM   #24
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He is talking about j i m b....iotch
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:31 AM   #25
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hahahahahahah i thought it might be him they were talking about.
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Old 11-26-2007, 06:16 AM   #26
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No one has been able to talk to him for a while from what i under stand. I think my drain line was aroun 18 or so inches, Braineack would be the one to ask about the greddy line length. But i don't think there are many that sit the turbo higher than mine and the closest would probably be some where around a foot or so. Feed line for the 1.6 was fine at 2 ft and had plenty of slack for my routing on the 16g kit. I would suspect the Gredy kit to be similiar if not a litle smaller. And FWIW try to bold the word in one or two letters to bypas the filter JimB
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Old 11-26-2007, 10:41 AM   #27
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He is talking about j i m b....iotch
Yep, that's who I was referring to. Business tactics aside, was his fairly simple design sufficient to provide the fuel you guys need? It seems rather simplistic with all the brass fittings, but if it worked....

Craig
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Old 11-26-2007, 10:46 AM   #28
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Our stock fuel rail is supposedly good enough for most applications. The thing most people want is a quality dual feed rail with AN fittings. Which means, no JB weld. They're not willing to pay much for it though so cheap is a huge priority.
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Old 11-26-2007, 10:46 AM   #29
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I think my drain line was aroun 18 or so inches, Braineack would be the one to ask about the greddy line length. But i don't think there are many that sit the turbo higher than mine and the closest would probably be some where around a foot or so. Feed line for the 1.6 was fine at 2 ft and had plenty of slack for my routing on the 16g kit. I would suspect the Gredy kit to be similiar if not a litle smaller. And FWIW try to bold the word in one or two letters to bypas the filter JimB
So it's sounding like a 2ft feed line, and maybe supply 2ft of drain line as well. We already know that our block fitting works in the Mazda block, so all that is left is to determine what drain flange and oil inlet type you guys need for the different turbos you run. For the drain flange on the GReddy, what is the spacing of the mounting bolts? We already have flanges with spacing of 38, 44, and 50.8mm. Will one of these work? For the inlets, we have 1/8NPT, 7/16-24 Inverted Flare, and one or two metric choices. Will any of these work for the oil inlet on the GReddy turbo?

Craig
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:18 AM   #30
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How much for the oil sender T and whats the thread for the feed line?

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For the inlets, we have 1/8NPT, 7/16-24 Inverted Flare, and one or two metric choices. Will any of these work for the oil inlet on the GReddy turbo?

Craig
I think 7/16-24 is the fitting on many garretts, i know for certain its the fitting on my Nissan T25 Garrett.
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:20 AM   #31
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You seem to be a bit confused about feed lines.

The 1.6 miata has a feed port on the exhaust side and only requires a couple feed of feed line. They do not utilize your feed block on the 1.6 because of this.
Some of the 94 1.8s have the same fitting, but that was only for like half of the production year.
The rest of the 1.8s have two options for oil feed. They can use your fitting or a sandwich plate. Both of which have to be used on the intake side and require a much longer feed line. More like 40" though i don't remember exactly how long.
The drain lines should be a universal 2' so people can cut to length. The oil pan fitting should be a threaded fitting that screws into a 1/2" NPT tapped hole in the oil pan. Your bolt on flange is going to be to much trouble. No one here takes their pan off for their oil drain unless they're "special". You should include the appropriate drain flange at the turbo though.
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:29 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
. The oil pan fitting should be a threaded fitting that screws into a 1/2" NPT tapped hole in the oil pan. Your bolt on flange is going to be to much trouble. No one here takes their pan off for their oil drain unless they're "special". You should include the appropriate drain flange at the turbo though.

5/8 inch flare on the turbo, 5/8 hose, 5/8 inch flare to 1/2 inch npt on the pan.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=BCS
Something like this but not for 29.00 dollars, that just makes baby jesus cry.

Cheap and simple.
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:56 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
You seem to be a bit confused about feed lines.

The 1.6 miata has a feed port on the exhaust side and only requires a couple feed of feed line. They do not utilize your feed block on the 1.6 because of this.
Some of the 94 1.8s have the same fitting, but that was only for like half of the production year.
The rest of the 1.8s have two options for oil feed. They can use your fitting or a sandwich plate. Both of which have to be used on the intake side and require a much longer feed line. More like 40" though i don't remember exactly how long.
The drain lines should be a universal 2' so people can cut to length. The oil pan fitting should be a threaded fitting that screws into a 1/2" NPT tapped hole in the oil pan. Your bolt on flange is going to be to much trouble. No one here takes their pan off for their oil drain unless they're "special". You should include the appropriate drain flange at the turbo though.
Ahh, thanks for clearing that up.

Sounds like we should do two kits. One for the feed port on the exhaust side of the 1.6 (2ft, and fitting for the port), and another for the oil sender style 1.8 (4ft, and the block fitting). Both kits can use the same type of drain line solution.

Question - How do folks tap their pans without taking it off the vehicle? I'd be concerned about chips falling into the pan during the tapping process.
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:58 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
Our stock fuel rail is supposedly good enough for most applications. The thing most people want is a quality dual feed rail with AN fittings. Which means, no JB weld. They're not willing to pay much for it though so cheap is a huge priority.
What about mounting provisions for the OEM regulator? Are these required, or will most people be using an external or remote mounted FPR? If we duplicate the factory mount, folks could still upgrade to the Synapse style of FPR.
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:01 PM   #35
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How much for the oil sender T and whats the thread for the feed line?
The block fitting is here - http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/O...al_Outlet.html and it's $21.

We normally use -3 AN steel lines for the feed portion of the kits. Each kit includes a 1/8NPT to -3 fitting for the block adapter, and then an adapter from -3 to whatever the turbo oil inlet uses.

Craig
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:03 PM   #36
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Most people are concerned but it works out pretty well we just run a drill up in there run a tap in it and then rinse it out with some mineral spirits and install fittings and oil and we are good to go. Given that to pull the pan on these cars you need to pull the motor or front subframe it is the only way 90% of us have of doing it. Our pans are thick aluminum anyway and we have good baffels and screens to help keep any left overs out of the bearings etc. A oe regulator type port would be a good idea as alot of us just run a regulator to jack up the pressure and use the stocker to maintane idle and non boost pressure. And then there is the rest of us who run the oe regulator and larger injectors.
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:06 PM   #37
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Sam i am hoping this is going to be a teflon inner non rubber what so ever hose solution not a slip on afair what you have pictured there from atp is for cheap rubber crap that you replace every year.
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:50 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TunerToys View Post
The block fitting is here - http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/O...al_Outlet.html and it's $21.

We normally use -3 AN steel lines for the feed portion of the kits. Each kit includes a 1/8NPT to -3 fitting for the block adapter, and then an adapter from -3 to whatever the turbo oil inlet uses.

Craig
Sweeeeeeeeeet. I was looking for this.
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Old 11-26-2007, 02:23 PM   #39
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Installing my TunerToys oil line kit was the easiest part of my Miata's turbo install. Personally, I just used the standard 14b feed/drain kit. Everything works perfect - not the slightest sign of any leak and I don't have to run an oil restrictor because of the -3AN size line. The steel block adapters are very nice pieces.

Like I mentioned earlier, I've run TT oil line kits on my past 5 turbo'ed cars and I've never had a single problem. I always suggest them to friends and they've never had any sort of problems either. On top of that customer service is top notch.

One thing that may need to be tested is is the larger "real' oil pressure sending units will work with the block fitting. From what I've heard they are a bit larger than the on/off units.
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Old 11-26-2007, 02:49 PM   #40
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You screw the OPG sending unit in the end port. Fits like a charm, i use a big VDO sending unit.
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