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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 11-26-2007, 04:18 PM   #41
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My HKS manifold "probably" sits the turbo the highest of them all. 18" of -10AN worked, but it is also using the all the AN fittings which add an inch or two.
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Old 11-26-2007, 04:20 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jefe View Post
My HKS manifold "probably" sits the turbo the highest of them all. 18" of -10AN worked, but it is also using the all the AN fittings which add an inch or two.
Ditto, same manifold using AN press on fittings.
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Old 11-26-2007, 05:09 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
Our pans are thick aluminum...
How thick are the pans? At 1/2NPT there are 14 threads per inch. If the pan is 1/4 thick, then there will only be 3.5 threads after tapping. Is this enough to create a good seal and hold the fitting securely?

If so, then we can easilly do a kit for this. We can offer two levels, one that uses hydrocarbon safe rubber, and one that uses a teflon lined AN solution.

With removing the pan being so difficult, I can see why this type of solution would be desired. What about a weld on 1/2NPT bung? Most shadtree guys don't have the capability to weld aluminum, so this would have to be done at a shop. It would really complicate the install, but it would be a very robust connection.

A lot of the Honda guys thread teh 1/2NPT fitting into the stamped pans, and then JB Weld it to keep it secure. This scares me personally, but I have never had a reported failure.

Craig
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Old 11-26-2007, 05:20 PM   #44
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The pan is about 1/4" thick, so you are right on the number of threads engaged. We also use JB weld on the threads to seal and secure the fitting.
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Old 11-26-2007, 05:21 PM   #45
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I'd say almost 100% of us tap the pan and follow it up with jb weld because of the difficulty in removing the pan. It holds up perfectly fine though as long as everything is cleaned properly beforehand.

**** to take off my old hose barb fitting when assembling my new motor it took over 100ftlb of tq to break the jb weld holding it. I just put in the new 45deg an fitting and used jb weld again. Its ghetto, sure, but it has been working for our crowd for over a decade.
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Old 11-26-2007, 06:05 PM   #46
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Same here, I drill/taped the pan then screwed the fitting on and JB welded it in. The only problem with welding is that on cars with a/c there is NO room.
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Old 11-26-2007, 10:02 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by TunerToys View Post
We can offer two levels, one that uses hydrocarbon safe rubber, and one that uses a teflon lined AN solution.
Yes, I quoted myself.

So the AN based drain line would have the following....

AN Flange on turbo -> straight AN to hose fitting -> length of Hose -> straight an to hose fitting -> AN male 45 to 1/2NPT fitting into the pan.

Of course, if I put the 45 on the hose end, and put a straight into the pan, installation will be a little easier, because you won't have to worry about making sure the 45 points in the right direction as you tighten it into the pan.

AN Flange on turbo -> straight AN to hose fitting -> length of Hose -> an 45 to hose fitting -> AN male straight to 1/2NPT fitting into the pan.

The economy drain line would be much simpler...

NPT Flange on turbo -> straight NPT to push fit hose fitting -> length of Hose -> push fit hose to 1/2NPT fitting into the pan.

Or to keep from having to disconnect the drain line by taking the drain flange off the turbo we could keep the an flange and make that a convenient place to disconnect the drain line.

AN Flange on turbo -> straight an to push fit hose fitting -> length of Hose -> push fit hose to 1/2NPT fitting into the pan.

Let me know what you guys think of these potential combinations. Also, what drain flange sizes you are dealing with.

Also, in looking at the FAQ, we noticed that in the picture of the drain line, that a straight fitting was used in the existing location. I also noticed, was that the marked location that says "Tap Here" is quite a bit forward from the location actually used in the picture.

- Is there room at both locations to use a straight in fitting, or does this need to be a 45 or 90 to remain AC friendly?
- Why should we choose one location over the other?

When we get these last few things nailed down, we should be able to start offering a kit.

Thanks for the Miata edification guys!

Craig
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Old 11-26-2007, 10:03 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
...and used jb weld again. Its ghetto, sure, but it has been working for our crowd for over a decade.
I hear ya, the Honda crowd we run with swears by the JB Weld.

Craig
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Old 11-26-2007, 10:27 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TunerToys View Post
The economy drain line would be much simpler...

NPT Flange on turbo -> straight NPT to push fit hose fitting -> length of Hose -> push fit hose to 1/2NPT fitting into the pan.

Or to keep from having to disconnect the drain line by taking the drain flange off the turbo we could keep the an flange and make that a convenient place to disconnect the drain line.

AN Flange on turbo -> straight an to push fit hose fitting -> length of Hose -> push fit hose to 1/2NPT fitting into the pan.

Let me know what you guys think of these potential combinations. Also, what drain flange sizes you are dealing with.

Also, in looking at the FAQ, we noticed that in the picture of the drain line, that a straight fitting was used in the existing location. I also noticed, was that the marked location that says "Tap Here" is quite a bit forward from the location actually used in the picture.
Look at my post for the flared fitting I posted. Thats even simpler then ur AN + push fit adapter.

5/8 inch Flared Adapter on turbo -> 5/8 Hose -> 5/8 Flare-1/2 NPT on pan

DONE

Include the necessary hose clamps.


As for the picture in the DIY, thats just where the hose is hanging, its not actually tapped there.
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:34 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Look at my post for the flared fitting I posted. Thats even simpler then ur AN + push fit adapter.

5/8 inch Flared Adapter on turbo -> 5/8 Hose -> 5/8 Flare-1/2 NPT on pan

DONE

Include the necessary hose clamps.


As for the picture in the DIY, thats just where the hose is hanging, its not actually tapped there.
I agree that your flared fitting solution is simpler, but it means that we would need to manufacture or source that flared flange from ATP. Since we are already making the AN and the NPT flanges, the combined cost of either of those for us, is cheaper than sourcing the fitting form ATP. We may begin manufacturing that part or something similar at some point.

Craig
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