samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Cardomain would be all right for just the car, but I'm into a few other things... plus I hate banners and advertising (even though its free) and I'd like to be able to upload larger file size pictures than CD allows. For $5 bucks a month, I can get a webhost and have total control, but there are literally thousands and thousands of them. I'll probably just end up w/ Godaddy or 1and1... but I'd like to hear opinions.

BTW, I just bought the second piece to the assembly... a used(but new) Begi FPR... and the third piece, a Begi manifold...and the fourth piece, a Walbro 190hp..

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

When I called Begi to order the Mani, I also talked to Corky and learned a few things about T25's. I knew they were not all the same... but I also learned something I hadn't thought of. Most factory turbo cars do not use silicone couplers to attach the intake and IC like aftermarket systems, they use a flange with the stock intake/IC BOLTED to it. So, when sourcing a doner turbo, I'll have to make sure the compressor inlet/outlet will either accept or be able to modify to work with MY intake and IC via couplers. How this escaped me until now I don't know

Also... I PROMISE I SEARCHED AT LENGTH!!! I still can't make heads or tails of which cars to look at that will fit the manifold I just bought. I think that DSM and Evo's will not mate to the T2x flange. I think that Volvo's and Saabs will. I'm pretty sure that any SR20Det T25 will fit. Who knows? Just point me in the direction of the right car, ebay source, or classified ad.

kung fu jesus

iTrader: (1)

SR20Det T25 will not fit, as far as i know. nissan uses a kweer enlarged 5 stud turbine exhaust that is slightly askew of the regular garrett t25/t28 turbos. also, don't know if the mount flange would work. the r32 turbo i tried woundn't fit because that flange has studs coming OUT of it, where on the begi mani, the studs come out of THAT.

the mazdaspeed protege uses a gt2554r ball bearing garrett with a universal inlet and outlet. i picked one up used for $350. it needs to be clocked, but it's easy to do.

kung fu jesus

iTrader: (1)

this is what my mazdaspeed turbo looks like.

RicanmiataRacer

Wait wait wait , Im using a Begi manifold along with a sr20 t25...It bolts on directly to the manifold, the onlyt thing I had to do was rotate the inlet assembly away from resting on the manifold...fits quite well

RicanmiataRacer

Since the car Is not running as of right now, I can't give any feedback on THE mb controller as of yet, but the perrin can control up to 30 psi, every turn on the mbc equals about 1.5 psi, I'll double check when I get home..but it looks pretty straight forward.

RicanmiataRacer

Heres a realitivly simple low cost boost set-up for about 6-8 psi of boost and its safe as long as you don't go boost crazy:

1-8:1 vortech fmu
2-1.8 injecters
3-bell manifold with t2 or t3 flange
4-t25 from a SR or t3 from saab vehicle
5-saab IC ,rx7 IC,or a starion IC
6-190lph walboro pump
7-2.5 inch downpipe leading into 2.5 exhaust sytem(helps the turbo spool)
8-boost gauge,egt gauge,a/f gauge,oil temp guage
9-A blow-off valve ...type-s still rules lol
10- oil return lines(stailess steel perferebly)
11-one step colder ngk plugs
12-manacore wires are a nice add
13-10-30 mobil synthetic oil(highly recommed it)
14-A manual boost controller helps

Thats basically it, anyone see anything missing in this list...feel free to add..

If you do go with the sr turbo and bell manifold, be sure to get both the inlet and outlet elbows for the turbo.

hope this helps!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

That is what I thought as well. I've just spent a couple hours researching this in depth. Here's what I've found. For T25/T28, Mitsubishi(sometimes referred to as MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) turbo cars (Evos and DSM's, maybe Dodges as well since they shared platforms) use a round flange to connect to the manifold. All other T25's use an "almost square" (slightly rectangular) flange. T3/T4 flanges look similar to those except they're obviously very rectangular and nowhere near "almost square".

All Nissan's T25's, such as cars with the the SR20det, CA18det, etc... come with a standard T25 flanged turbo. Most Saabs and Volvo's use T3 turbo as far as I can tell, but that makes sense as those motors are somewhat bigger.

So it looks like I need to source a T25 off someones Nissan upgrade. There are a few on ebay right now. I could do one tonite if I wanted to spend $200, but I think I can get a decent one even cheaper. I really would like that GT2554r, but they're just too much. I would also like the compressor oulet to point down like on Braineaks or Stripes!!!

PLEASE SOMEBODY TELL ME IF I'm WRONG!!!

And Rican, I'm doing pretty much exactly your build sheet w/exception of a BegiFPR, ebay IC... and a Bosch BOV (low whoosh, not jet engine woosh!)

kung fu jesus

iTrader: (1)

my mistake about the sr20. sorry.

garrett turbos (t25) can be clocked to point down.

RicanmiataRacer

I see....hmmm yay I got a follower , sweet lol, I got my turbo along with the sr stock manifold and dumppipe for $110, turbo is perfectly good, no shaft play...the manifold and dump pipe are pretty much garbage to me...Not a bad ebay deal huh...I got pretty much all my parts of ebay, And I've delt with alot Of ******** on ebay as well , All I need now Is some Ic Piping and a custom downpipe....But keep it up, you are doin well young jedi lol.

oh yea FYI My car has the same exact milage 136 k.

RicanmiataRacer

LoL no worrys , WE can still be buds , lmfao !!

RicanmiataRacer

They can defintly be clocked downward, but what am I going to about the wastegate? Im not running a external, so would I possibly weld a hanger on the side for It or what...im not sure

kung fu jesus

iTrader: (1)

yep, you need to relocate the WG can. i was lucky that the ATP bracket worked perfectly. i just had to cut the WG actuator arm and thread the remaining pod a little.

RicanmiataRacer

Its all fine and dandy, I have plenty of room to work with in the engine bay..so it should'nt cause any issue.

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

Great, another thing I forgot. Well, now I need a picture of what you're talking about. What ATP bracket it this? What are my other wastegate mounting options since I'm sticking with the internal. I should have as much room as RMR. RMR, be sure to post what you come up with!

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

OK, here's where we're at: Total=$590
RX7AFM: $33.30
Begi FPR: $150.00
Begi Mani: $250.00 (w/shipping, might be a a little more)
Walbro 190: $150.00
Ebay IC: $105.00

Still need: Total=$640
1.8 Injectors:
Turbo: looking at a $100-$150 ebay SR20det T25
DP: still doing homework... easy route would be Begi mild steel: $265
Bipes: $150 used
Bosch BOV, BRG says I can do this for: $25

Grand total of MAJOR components= $1328.

I still need IC piping and couplers, oil/water lines for turbo, vacuum lines for all components, intake pipe and filter, and a few other things... should be able to do that stuff for $300-$400 whaddya think?. I figure I'm right at my initial $1700 budget. We'll see.

I'm going to search extensively now for what I still need, but you could make it easy on me and just post a parts list for those things I still need (or link a thread that covers it). I'll be honest, I haven't done any homework on how to run the oil/water lines or how/where to tap into a boost source to operate the wastegate/BOV/AFPR or what's even involved with the engineering of this stuff. This learning process is on-the-fly, but I'm spending money like crazy anyways!

Addditional question: 1 step colder plugs... what EXACTLY do they do?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Oil Feed is right off the block, return should be tapped into the pan. (Get FM or BEGi instructions)

Water lines aren't very complicated, they run off the lines from the thermostat housing.

run the wategate line off the boost source from the turbo (get a $10 MBC)

BOV source is off the manifold behind the throttle body

I have my AFPR t-ed into the OEM FPR vacuum line

samnavy

iTrader: (7)

That sounds pretty straight forward.

For water to the turbo: do I tap off an existing unused feed/return bung or do I have to T/Y splice an existing line?

For oil to the turbo: Where on the block is the feed? Is that source currently being used for something else or is is a spare? For the return, tap into the side of the oilpan (I've seen lots of pictures of this). Is it better to do it on or off the car. If off, do I need to buy a gasket for the reinstall?

For BOV, the source is behind the throttle body. Again, is this source used for anything else or is it just a spare unused fitting?

For AFPR... I know my Begi will be used in conjunction with the stock device. I should T a vacuum line off the stock device so the source is the same.

Question: As the stock crossover tube enters the throttle body there are a ton of extra feeds off of it. What do each one of them do and are those sources of anything for me? Also, on the side of the valve cover above the manifold, there's fitting with a chrome tube that runs across the front of the engine and into the crossover tube just in front of the TB. What do I do with that?

I know some of this stuff has been covered, but I'm trying to get this thread to the point that it's idiot proof and all inclusive for someone to follow. Also... IF YOU HAVE PICTURES OF ANY OF THIS STUFF WITH LITTLE ARROWS POINTING TO THINGS (ala Power Point style), I'M STARTING A COLLECTION!

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Oil feed: Follow the dipstick tube down the block. You'll notice two bolts in the block. the one that is lower and closer to the back of the engine is the oil feed. It is M10X1.5, you can use a metric to AN fitting or a banjo fitting and proper bolt.

BOV: If you don't have Cruise there is an unused vacuum fitting on the intake manifold, right at the throttle body. If you have crusie, you can use a vacuum TEE to get "signal" from anywhere on the INTAKE side.

Look around for people's greddy installs, this will answer most of your questions.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

tap into it. Brian (bripab007) should have pictures

answered above

no

on; Drain oil the oil first. Drilling and threading a hole in the oil pan is a perfectly safe process. The drain hole location is as far forward and as low as possible on the left side of the sump, directly under the A/C compressor. If you have compressed air that you can regulate, set the pressure to 5psi and connect a hose to valve cover breather. Drill until the bit just breaks throughi. Keep the air blowing while you drill and tap the hole. STOP DRILLING AS SOON AS YOU BREAK THROUGH! tap, JB Weld or Locktite fitting, run hose up, flush with mineral spirits, done.

Only the cruise control if you have it. Otherwise its capped.

yes, it makes the install easier as well

Fender side is for the Air Idle Control, it needs to remain. Otherside is for the resonator, it doesn't need to stay.

Route it back into the INTAKE, just after the AFM and before the turbo, plug the hole in the crossover.