There are two bungs on it. It also came with a plug for one of them. No WB for now, but Christmas might bring LC1/MapSensor/O2Clamp/EBC... assuming I ever get this thing installed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've decided that Begi is officially the Shiznit. Every time I call the service is awesome and the products can't be beat.:bigtu:

cjernigan, you have PM.

BEGI > FM ? Yeah thats what I thought;)

It's been a couple of weeks since I dredged this up. But guess what!?!

The actual install begins. The fuel system AFPR/DFFR/Walbro are already in, as well as the Bipes, and the IC. The only things left are the clutch, and the actual Turbo aseembly.

I started today by taking off the Header and Intake. Tomorrow, the cold side IC piping will be done... and I'm going to at least take the tranny off and do the motor mounts. The clutch will probably be Sunday.

I spent an hour cleaning the hot-side of the engine. Looks better now... don't have to be so careful about touching stuff.

Pics are before and after cleaning. One question. The Mazda exhaust gasket I bought has a thin side and a thick side. The thin side has indentions in it that I assume goes towards the block. The thick side is completely smooth and I assume that goes towards the manifold. What, other than cleaning, should I do to prep the surface of the block and manifold... maybe a spray of WD40 or something?

we're gonna call you "mr. clean" with those before and after shots. I paid my yard guy to clean my engine bay and trans tunnel after my 1.6 had been leaking oil in it for 3 yrs. :eek:

OK, cold side done... except for the nipple for the idle air hose... still not sure what I'm going to do there. Any suggestions on how to attach a 3/4 hose fitting on an aluminum pipe?

Also, hot side done... and yup, just ONE PIECE OF PIPE. There's a 45* coupler on the turbo, and 45* pipe bend down to the 90* coupler into the IC... EASY!

For the BOV, I'm going to come off the hot side straight up into the intake tract.. which is still being designed. Need same suggestion on attaching hose fitting... 1" for the BOV.

Since I got bit in the ass about the couplers I bought, I'm going to stick with the stock MAF for initial install since the couplers will fit the slightly smaller outlet on the back of the stock MAF. But, I'm still unsure how to mount the MAF/Filter. I can't find room for the K&N. I think I bought one that's too big.

One of the heater-core radiator lines is going to be in the way of the downpipe. That line will have to be re-routed.

Got lots accomplished today... hooray for me!

hellz yeah, the charge pipe fits good!

Coming along! Nice work!

Cold side complete again. This time I drilled and tapped the idle air hookup. It's kinda ghetto, but it's gonna work great. I JBWelded the crap out of it and it's curing overnight. It'll be solid and as far as IC piping, it really doesn't get much simpler unless you've got a TIG handy.

Once I threaded the BARB through the pipe, I brought out the Dremel and smoothed it down as much as I dared... shouldn't be any obstruction to the airflow at all.

did you just come on here to plug your site?

All right, significant progress today.

Cold side is 99% completely done... BOV is installed and Idle Air Valve routed. It's all clamped in and fits perfect. I've got about 1" of clearance below the swaybar. Just need to decide where to tap for vacuum to the BOV.

Coolant line move. After rough fitting the turbo and DP, I found that the Begi DP will not fit with that water line to the heater core in the way. IT WILL NOT FIT! So, I went to the junkyard and started looking at other B6 cars. I found the heater pipe from a mid 80's Escort that looked like it would do the trick.
1. Rough cut the pipe.
2. Make a mount out of an old piece of stainless.
3. Bend the hangar on the tube a little and drill a hole in the mount.
4. Flip the heater hose at the firewall around and give it a slight twist.
5. Wrap the hose in leftover heat shield and install everything along with the Manifold.
6. Marvel at my $1(plus about 10 dremel cutoff wheels) masterpiece...

I also learned that with the Begi Mani, the center bottom nut must be the first one you put on... and my 14mm box-end wrench still would not fit in between the mani runners. I ended up cutting off two threads on the stud so I could get the wrench in there once the manifold was near tightened down. See pic.

Tomorrow I need to tap the pan... I have been dreading this. So. After a SNAFU with my ATP order, I'm going with the old plan of using a stock oil drain flange/pipe from a DSM car. I was going to use 5/8" heater hose into a 5/8" barb in the pan... until I bought the 5/8" barb and it's the size of a "C" battery... and a 5/8" bit costs $15, to say nothing of the tap. If I go silicone, can I get away with a smaller ID hose that I can just force over the drain, and get a smaller tap for the pan. If I use 10an(5/8") tube and a 1/2" barb, can I clamp down the hose tight enough so it won't leak. I'd like to drill as small a hole as possible and still maintain good flow.

Pics:
1. Stock pipe and pre-cut Escort pipe... would end up also cutting off small barb on right side.
2. Center-bottom stud shortened.
3. Stainless bracket mount.
4. Old and new for comparison.
5. Installed and heat wrapped.

Final test fittings... still looking to see if I can put a 10an line on a 1/2" barb.

Projects complete today:
1. Cut and fit intake pipe. Tap pipe for breather line.
2. You can see in one of the pics, I moved one of the grounds to a more out of the way location.
3. Installed manifold studs and wrecked one in the process (new post).
4. Test fit of oil feed, snakes through the brake hard-lines.
5. Final clocking of compressor section to line up wastegate actuator and outlet.

Still to do:
1. Tap the pan.
2. Source another mani stud and bolt down turbo.
3. Fabricate a mount and secure the MAF in place.
4. Fill radiator and oil.
5. Tighten everything down twice.
6. Say a prayer.
7. Depress clutch, turn key.:bigtu:

Looks good

WOW thats a very clean install, looking good!

so you moved the ground why?

To get it as far away from the DP as possible and for general aesthetics... looks cleaner.

Finally!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

Well, this is officially my last post in this thread.... and why do you ask??? Because I'm officially a part of the Turbo Community now. That's right, IT'S ALIVE!!! I got home from work today and spent an hour tapping the pan (not as bad as I'd thought)... then I cleaned the garage... then had dinner... then checked things again... then remembered that I hadn't installed the new fuel filter... then it was time.

I've got a small water leak from the heater core line the I crushed while taking it off for my "reroute"... tomorrow when the engine is cool, I'm going to bypass the heater core until I can make the pipe round again.

I started by following the instructions on the Begi FPR by setting the ZERO fuel pressure and turning the rise to max. I set the Bipes to pull a total of 8* from a base of 14* starting at 2000rpms. Both of those should keep me rich and safe for the time being.

I drove real slow straight to the gas station and filled up with 93. Then a couple of runs around the area. I did exactly what I said I wasn't going to do and drove it real hard straight off the bat. I'm not sure what all the new noises are. I can hear the turbo spooling and the BOV (very quiet and unobtrusive)... but there are a few other whirs and buzzes to sort out.

I was only making about 4psi and won't know why until I can triple check things again tomorrow... maybe a little leak somewhere or something. I'll mess with the MBC and make some other adjustments... we'll see where we stand tomorrow afternoon. But that will be in a new thread... BECAUSE THIS ONE IS OVER!!!

Welcome to the wonderful world of FI Miatas.

Can't wait. I'm still a few weeks away. Great to see you haven't got any major dramas though!