It was laser engraved at the machine shop I work at.

:rofl:

Huh?

--------
and to the OP.
So what was the problem with the way the factory internal waste gate worked?

the water in your radiator is around 180-200*F....air passing through there is only going to be heated.

Do you use the correct resistance scale for the GM sensor? What ohm did you use for the bias resistor? Considering I see 100-110*F temps on a 90* day with my filter exposed to direct airflow, I cannot assume your values are correct.



anyways, giving you a hard time cause i have nothing better to do.

your link was a picture of a cobra...im not sure how you he run a cobra mustang out his fender....

Was or Is?

Looks like a 5 bolt miata to me with a muffler sticking out the front bumper.

The piping is all two inch except for the last part with the BOV which is 2 1/4.

The radiator is a 53mm Koyo and its brilliant. The IC pipes go straight down into the intercooler. The inlet and outlet are on either side of the IC on top.

As Gavin said, its silicone tape and it works extremely well on preventing the plastic hose from blowing out.

Mustang? this is what I linked you too.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/slibus/SIvpFfQJ...jpg?imgmax=512

They've been working great as a temporary solution, I don't get why you guys expect everyone's cars to be perfect right off the bat. This car has been turbocharged for less than a week and I'm running off of a college student budget.

This pic makes no sense to me...so many questions I have...


to OP: speaking from experience buddy, if others made that mistake, you don't have to...kind of like re-inventing the wheel.

This is what will happen, that thing will swell on a boosted run and make a really cool loud sound, the sound of failure. Lucky you, you are running a MAP sensor and no MAF, so you will make it home.

There's a lot more of the car at the website it's linked from- pinksallout event. Looks like an SR20 swap, but no underhood pics.

Do you happen to have a friend running a disco potato on an MSM with no engine management?

Yessir. Thats my album.

It is an SR20 swap youre right, I ran up to him while he was lining up, shook his hand and told him to win one for all of us. I went to that guys pit area twice during the whole day and but he was not there so I couldnt talk to him. Snooped around his car, took some pics, and left. I wanted to open his hood, but didnt want to have to deal with shit if someone from another team saw me doing it.

Edit: Im a tool, i should left a note for him to join the forum.

Spend some time over at HomeMadeTurbo.com , this build is well designed compared to a BUNCH over there.

Yes! Questions! If more of you had framed these criticisms as questions, so many of you would have saved yourselves from looking really very foolish in the eyes of someone who, evidently, has far more experience than any of you.

So where do I start; oh yes, the couplers. Do you guys really think we planned on using mostly high quality silicone couplers and two Home Depot ones??? Or half T-bolt clamps and half worm clamps?? These are parts that I had lying around from the various other cars and projects which I (and John) work on regularly. I will certainly agree of all the parts on the car which WILL eventually brake (just about all of them), these would probably be the first by far. Proper couplers + clamps are soon to be ordered. However, there is no rush. I have seen those couplers last many many many miles (yes, swelling over and over and over under boost) with no problems. I have one right now on my 280zx turbo which has been there for almost 20k hard miles, two autocrosses, and a track day. I have had the same results on mine and friends cars in the past — yes, they tend to slip off easily, but I find once you get them on there well, they stay for good. I have certainly never seen one tare.

If John couldn't handle blowing a coupler, I would not have MegaSquirted his, and certainly not turbocharged it. He has no delusions about how often he will be opening his hood.


His filter is not in the best place, but you can see from the results posted that its completely adequate.

The IAT sensor is correct. It would surely peak higher than 110 if the element was better placed in the air stream. Another thing we will be addressing, but you see any Honda and many other cars with a plastic-enclosed IAT sensor which is MUCH worse, and they are fine. But we are gonna try to improve things.

The oil drain is fine. You have been informed.

I have to say I am very disappointed in the level of maturity we have been met with, being newcomers to the site. I think if many of you were to not be on the attack constantly and maybe asked some questions constructively, you could learn a lot.
Its not all about 'pwning' people, although I sure am doing a lot of that today.

Drive-by commentary from moderators is also really classy.
And my '5 year old crayon' quality welds are functioning completely without a single leak, thank you very much. Second thing I ever welded.

None of you would last 30 seconds on homemadeturbo.com with this attitude hahahahahahahaha. I urge you to check it out.

Just cause it works, doesn't mean its right. Also keep in mind, its only been running a week, who knows whats gonna happen in 500 miles.

Certainly driving around with an open wastegate under your hood is not very smart, at least admit that.

Sorry broseph, but we have a saying here, do it once and do it right. I dont know why you would want to do this only to have to go back and fix and replace stuff later, pita if you ask me.

We see people do a lot of stupid things with their cars on this forum, there is also an agreed upon and trusted way that things should work. Why would you want to reinvent the bicycle with this stuff.

I also believe doing anything to a car on a college student budget is asking for trouble.

Thats what we had on hand. Now that we know exactly how the charge piping is, we know exactly what to order. Turns out, its only a pair of couplers and some clamps. We didn't follow a guide, or model this off of a ""kit.""

SloS13 has over 1k posts on HMT, your drive by admin has a handful, as do I.

Don't assume, everyone gets just as much hassle over on HMT, as you did here.

After some of the "tech" you have brought to the forum recently, you better think twice about a statement like that. I know guys who have STi's and FD's and a bunch of cheaper shit, DIY turbo honda's and such, and none of us have rich parents or are starving ourselves.


Edit: Gavin "EMS tuner extraordinaire. " wtf is this shit? Thats just pure :jerkit:

Thats sort of good to hear, makes the attitude even more puzzling though.

Ya basically, just a joke. I am pretty nasty though.
edit - alright fine the extraordinaire thing is lame lol, I'ma change it.

Oh and BTW, there are plenty of you who sound pretty legit, including you reddroptop. Unfortunately you are being overshadowed.

Saml01- Nope, its not the best thing. I SAID WE ARE GOING TO MAKE A DUMP TUBE LONG AGO. I SAID WE ARE GOING TO REPLACE THE COUPLERS LONG AGO. WHAT DO I HAVE TO DO? Your all basically right, just need to chill out with the attempted pwnage.

i'm legit.

You post an incomplete project and don't expect to be called out on it? Where the fuck do you think you are posting? What exactly are you attempting to showcase here?

Your oil drain is stupid, simply because with a bit of effort it could have been more ideal. Are you sealing a leak on the DP flange with silicone?

Dazzled we are not, but you are getting all the flack because of your attitude. Ghetto turbo is accepted here (jbweld-a-cooler), DIY is good, cheap is good. Being a bitchy little twat is not.