newbs. allofit build.
#45
I cut the factory slave down about half an inch to accommodate the tII trans bell housing and fork. Clutch engages and disengages very nicely I might at. Once cars running will definately know what other quirks may arise. As for now I'm working on building a mount for the rear of the trans I'm going to essentially tie the torque bar to the trans as well as to the whole frame of the car so that everything is structully locked. Will post pics should have most of it fabbed tonight.
#46
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Hello, thank you for deciding to make real power. I have some feedback for your quest.
I ran a slashcut and that is absolutely impractical if you want to casually enjoy the car in any way at all. The stench of burning fumes and blowby in the exhaust is just horrible. Also when some oil does get in the exhaust, it smokes like ******* crazy and you look like your car is broken. That is good for acting like your car is a sleeper, but even after people see it go fast, they'll still think your car is broken.
280hp is quite different than stock corvette power. If you are just ******* around on the street then you don't need to do any of this radiator or fan bullshit.
If you are track day bro then you have a whole other set of issues. Street and track builds are extremely different. Now, strip and road course track are also extremely different. Don't build for strip.. it will be a waste of your money and time and the best ET I've known of for a miata was 11.3 which is ******* lame and that car had 447hp and broke so many things on the way to that ET. Please just build for street and make a car that actually works.
For power I have some tips.
1. Tune your VVT cus it will help spool massively and alter your power curve dramatically. The more boost you're running the bigger a difference it will be.
2. Run a big ******* exhaust and downpipe. If you do some research into dyno proven setups on other forums where people make real power like evo land and supra land you'll see 3.5" or 4" is the way to go. Choad exhaust is ideal, short and wide. This will affect your spool. I talk about spool a lot because with **** little crap gt28 turbos you can spool hundreds or a thousand rpm later and people don't give a **** because who gives a **** they're not getting a massive rise in power they can wait for slow spool.. but with a bigger turbo you need hard dick big dingaling padoinking you in the nono NOW NOW NOW NOWNOW MORE NOW
3. You are clearly a capable mechanic so tear that head apart STAT and put in stiffer valve springs!!!! This mod had a HUGE impact on the driveability of my car. Revving to 8500 RPM changes the entire feel of the car and when you're running a bigger turbo, it means that you will have a much wider powerband, shift later and your car will sound awesome.
4. The NB stock intake manifold is not that great. It's a restriction.
5. If you want a twin disc ceramic 949 clutch i am selling mine. If you put it in your car it will be racecar and no longer be fun to drive. Unless you flat shift and burnout at traffic lights and that's why you have three broken rx7 transmissions in the garage
Let me add some advise form someone making only ~280hp.
You NEED to do a coolant reroute
Don't mess with any other radiator fans but Spal
Get the FM cross flow radiator
Talk to Reverant about his Enhanced Megasquirts
Get rid of the heat wrap on your manifold
Insulate the trans tunnel from heat, the inside of the car will get hot.
You NEED to do a coolant reroute
Don't mess with any other radiator fans but Spal
Get the FM cross flow radiator
Talk to Reverant about his Enhanced Megasquirts
Get rid of the heat wrap on your manifold
Insulate the trans tunnel from heat, the inside of the car will get hot.
If you are track day bro then you have a whole other set of issues. Street and track builds are extremely different. Now, strip and road course track are also extremely different. Don't build for strip.. it will be a waste of your money and time and the best ET I've known of for a miata was 11.3 which is ******* lame and that car had 447hp and broke so many things on the way to that ET. Please just build for street and make a car that actually works.
For power I have some tips.
1. Tune your VVT cus it will help spool massively and alter your power curve dramatically. The more boost you're running the bigger a difference it will be.
2. Run a big ******* exhaust and downpipe. If you do some research into dyno proven setups on other forums where people make real power like evo land and supra land you'll see 3.5" or 4" is the way to go. Choad exhaust is ideal, short and wide. This will affect your spool. I talk about spool a lot because with **** little crap gt28 turbos you can spool hundreds or a thousand rpm later and people don't give a **** because who gives a **** they're not getting a massive rise in power they can wait for slow spool.. but with a bigger turbo you need hard dick big dingaling padoinking you in the nono NOW NOW NOW NOWNOW MORE NOW
3. You are clearly a capable mechanic so tear that head apart STAT and put in stiffer valve springs!!!! This mod had a HUGE impact on the driveability of my car. Revving to 8500 RPM changes the entire feel of the car and when you're running a bigger turbo, it means that you will have a much wider powerband, shift later and your car will sound awesome.
4. The NB stock intake manifold is not that great. It's a restriction.
5. If you want a twin disc ceramic 949 clutch i am selling mine. If you put it in your car it will be racecar and no longer be fun to drive. Unless you flat shift and burnout at traffic lights and that's why you have three broken rx7 transmissions in the garage
#47
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More. Dual feed fuel rail is overrated. Who gives a ****. No, you're not gonna blow up a cylinder cus it's fuel starved. but if it makes you feel better do it. FWIW i run dual feed and dual bosch 044 and i also land on the moon
I use ID1000 and they felt smoother than RC750. How much better? Idunno the car ran **** that's pretty damn good. Sequential spark is nice but not worth power for the headache. LS coil dwell can be finicky and stupid and I say just run the stock NB VVT coils. I made 398hp with those and had zero issue with blowout. I swapped em out and whee it was yet another thing to tune. Sigh
Oh regarding tuning. Let me guess. You don't know how to tune. I'm not being an *******. Most mechanics who can build a motor don't know how to tune. That's not necessarily a bad thing. I myself am a miserable amateur mechanic that is good at one mechanical thing- destroying. But I had no problem learning how to tune and for me that's a lot of fun and is really easy.
You will need a basemap. You will also need someone good to tune your basemap. Someone who knows how to set up closed look knock trim maps. Someone that knows how to make a 3d timing curve and do the math to build a rough boost fuel map from a 0psi datalog. Ideally, you will need someone that understands how to squeeze out that 500hp potential in that HY and how to set up timing during high boost spool.
Frankly, all of that stuff is easy but it is intimidating because if you **** up your car gets deaded. I say it's easy but it also can be frustrating because tuning is systemic, with many parameters affecting the function of other parameters. Right now my car is having a consistent misfire at 6500RPM. Is it dwell? Is it my LS coils? Is it my fuel map? Is it my VVT or timing map? Is it my rev limiter? Is it knock trim because something vibrates at that frequency? Is it bad fuel?
All of those above questions are the difference between a science project and just driving your car and enjoying it. Apparently, I liked the science project aspect more because I made my solid daily driveable car into a finicky intermittently driveable racecar. And then I bought 3 more cars because the car I really loved was in general, broken.
Anyways, figure out the tuner thing asap. If you want to learn to tune, and I think anyone with a heavily modified car should--- pay someone who is good at your EMS for a lesson. Or pay them to tune and also train you. Tuning is the difference between slapping on a I/H/E and slapping on a turbo/mani/ic/exhaust. Both are just bolts but the turbo setup needs tuning. And also has like 20x or more performance benefit.
I use ID1000 and they felt smoother than RC750. How much better? Idunno the car ran **** that's pretty damn good. Sequential spark is nice but not worth power for the headache. LS coil dwell can be finicky and stupid and I say just run the stock NB VVT coils. I made 398hp with those and had zero issue with blowout. I swapped em out and whee it was yet another thing to tune. Sigh
Oh regarding tuning. Let me guess. You don't know how to tune. I'm not being an *******. Most mechanics who can build a motor don't know how to tune. That's not necessarily a bad thing. I myself am a miserable amateur mechanic that is good at one mechanical thing- destroying. But I had no problem learning how to tune and for me that's a lot of fun and is really easy.
You will need a basemap. You will also need someone good to tune your basemap. Someone who knows how to set up closed look knock trim maps. Someone that knows how to make a 3d timing curve and do the math to build a rough boost fuel map from a 0psi datalog. Ideally, you will need someone that understands how to squeeze out that 500hp potential in that HY and how to set up timing during high boost spool.
Frankly, all of that stuff is easy but it is intimidating because if you **** up your car gets deaded. I say it's easy but it also can be frustrating because tuning is systemic, with many parameters affecting the function of other parameters. Right now my car is having a consistent misfire at 6500RPM. Is it dwell? Is it my LS coils? Is it my fuel map? Is it my VVT or timing map? Is it my rev limiter? Is it knock trim because something vibrates at that frequency? Is it bad fuel?
All of those above questions are the difference between a science project and just driving your car and enjoying it. Apparently, I liked the science project aspect more because I made my solid daily driveable car into a finicky intermittently driveable racecar. And then I bought 3 more cars because the car I really loved was in general, broken.
Anyways, figure out the tuner thing asap. If you want to learn to tune, and I think anyone with a heavily modified car should--- pay someone who is good at your EMS for a lesson. Or pay them to tune and also train you. Tuning is the difference between slapping on a I/H/E and slapping on a turbo/mani/ic/exhaust. Both are just bolts but the turbo setup needs tuning. And also has like 20x or more performance benefit.
#48
Fae, thanks for chiming in! I appreciate someone who has actually done high hp on a bp engine chiming in. As far as tuning I have a friend who does high hp turbo LS engine tuning who is going to at least do all the base mapping etc, and I will be using the stock rail. I'm a mechanic by profession. Mechanicals are easy to me. But I have not built a high hp car and I bought my Miata on a spur of the moment ordeal and decided this was my car to truly build my first high hp turbo car. I'm going to continue updating the best I can! Crank case venting I was going to determine how bad it was and possible do what you did, I spent a few weeks reading every one of your build pages. Oh and this is my fun car so it's been parked for over a year now and this is how far I've gotten. Being a mechanic we don't make big bucks exactly. So this is a high hp take out cruising every few weekends for a night of shananigans car. Not looking for a DD or a drag car. Just something to have good times in!
#50
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Am excited to see a HY35 miata on the road. I seriously considered using that. get er dun!