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So, I have a '95 NA that I picked up 6 months ago with 68k miles. I have been doing a few modificaions, but really would like to boost; problem is, I've never had or worked around a boosted car. I've looked at the pre-fab kits and watched/researched many pages for information. I would love to get advice from this community. I'm looking for something that would be driver friendly and fun on twisties. This is not a daily driver as I have other vehicles....all of which are V8's which further lends to my "noobness" to these.
What I'm pretty set on currently:
Garrett 2560r (or similar)
MS2 PnP (don't think the MS3 would be necessary for me)
Other than that, not really sure where to go for the other components. I like the look of the FM custom setup with the idea that I'd supply an MS2 and new injectors; I just think I could build it cheaper. I also looked at the MK setup, and have questions out to Kraken as well; although ordering and shipping from Australia kinda scares me.
Any advice appreciated here. When I'm back on my phone, I'll add some pictures of the car in question.
The car does have AC and PS and I would like to keep these. I also know that I'd need to upgrade the clutch as well.
Thank you for the response. I am actually torn right now between theh Kraken kit ad the MKTurbo setup. I have talked with both, and currently am trying to make up my mind. I really like the look of the Kraken setup, but I also like the fact that Lars will build me a complete setup with a Garrett 2560 with all supporting mods (MS3, injectors, etc). I guess the intimidation point for me right now would be the standalone ECU. I really hate to put $1200 into it. If I could use a SpeedyEFI Speeduino setup, it would save me money.
The push for the Kraken setup for me is the killer welds, stainless exhaust, and I like the larger intercooler with the hard piping.
If you want to keep your A/C you will at least want an MS2, a Speeduino has little to zero A/C compatibility when it comes to idling up before the compressor turns on. I haven't seen a documented case of someone making A/C work with a speeduino.
I believe an MS3 is more than worth it, it was fun to get working on my setup even without a turbo, a MS3 Mini is also worth looking into if you are OK with some DIY Case modding to save some cash, while still having MS3 code and hardware.
+1 on the MS3. If you are handy with a soldering iron you can build one yourself for 750-800ish. I've built one for my 95 and depending on if you have an early or late 95 there are some small intricacies. I built mine off of the guide here, by @Braineack , and have had 0 problems. Other than that you can't go wrong with either kit. The FlowForce 640s are a good upgrade that makes tuning easier and get you very well into rod bending territory on a 2560.
It looks like you are on the right track to a solid build. Don't cut corners to save a little bit of money here or there. Saving a couple hundred on a standalone or any other component could lead to massive headaches down the road. Buy once cry once.
Thanks guy; ya'll are awesome. One more question for you: How strong is the stock 1.8 differential? Strong enough to do what I want without blowing? I'm not looking for extreme hp numbers, but would like the minimum to be at 200 whp.
I know I'll have to change the clutch out as well. What would you suggest?
Yep, stock diff is going to hold up fine. Your trans will break long before your diff. As for clutches there are a few from FM and ACT that people like. Then there's one from spec that seems to be hit or miss. But I would go for this one from supermiata. Any of the big brands should do what you need. Just read up and gauge peoples opinions. Just like everything else here all of it has been done 1000 times. The people before us failed so we don't have to.
Geeze, it's late I know, but around here a nice NA like that is bringing stupid money. I mean, stupid stupid money. Clean low km original but presented well, and the sky is the limit.
Geeze, it's late I know, but around here a nice NA like that is bringing stupid money. I mean, stupid stupid money. Clean low km original but presented well, and the sky is the limit.
I'm saying that here (Oz), Covid seems to have triggered a lot of change in peoples' spending, compared to pre-covid. No OS travel, so what to spend that money on? Limited domestic travel, likewise. Long story short, good NAs are in high demand (but not NBs). You seem to have a very nice example, from those photos. I'm saying that if it were here, I'd either keep it stock (probably sell it if I'd bought it pre-covid and cash in), or if modding it, do it in a way that it can be reverted without losing the 'original' tag.
But you are not here, and the interest in NAs may not have developed the way it has here, or not yet anyway.
To put it in perspective, the top price for a clean (but not concours), early NA6 seems to have been c$35kAUD, well north of $20kUSD. More run-of-the-mill NAs are moving in the teens upwards.
In short, you have a nice car there, possibly an appreciating asset too. It's your car, you do what you want with it.
I'm saying that here (Oz), Covid seems to have triggered a lot of change in peoples' spending, compared to pre-covid. No OS travel, so what to spend that money on? Limited domestic travel, likewise. Long story short, good NAs are in high demand (but not NBs). You seem to have a very nice example, from those photos. I'm saying that if it were here, I'd either keep it stock (probably sell it if I'd bought it pre-covid and cash in), or if modding it, do it in a way that it can be reverted without losing the 'original' tag.
But you are not here, and the interest in NAs may not have developed the way it has here, or not yet anyway.
To put it in perspective, the top price for a clean (but not concours), early NA6 seems to have been c$35kAUD, well north of $20kUSD. More run-of-the-mill NAs are moving in the teens upwards.
In short, you have a nice car there, possibly an appreciating asset too. It's your car, you do what you want with it.
Thank you for the kind words; it is an exceptional car. I agree, stock brings the most on these. I have been sure to keep everything in a condition that would allow me to return to stock form. Everything I am doing, as well, is thought out and only top materials used!
Another dumb question guys. I just ordered my MS3PNP and need to order a wideband. I planned to order the AEM, but is that the best option? If so, is there a particular part number that I need?
I've used both the Innovate MTX-L and the AEM 30-0300. The Innovate was nothing but trouble but I had it wired with the analog signal and it was oldish but I had a very noisy signal and near the end of its short life it got very inconsistent. I've got the AEM wired through CAN and it is amazing. No voltage offset issues to deal with so if the gauge is reporting a number you know 100% that's what the MS is seeing. The guys here have been using analog signals from the start with no issue but I see zero reason to use one now that MS and CAN play well with each other.
I've used both the Innovate MTX-L and the AEM 30-0300. The Innovate was nothing but trouble but I had it wired with the analog signal and it was oldish but I had a very noisy signal and near the end of its short life it got very inconsistent. I've got the AEM wired through CAN and it is amazing. No voltage offset issues to deal with so if the gauge is reporting a number you know 100% that's what the MS is seeing. The guys here have been using analog signals from the start with no issue but I see zero reason to use one now that MS and CAN play well with each other.
Does this sensor take place of my o2 when I install my turbo setup and MS3, or will I need to run it as well?
Does this sensor take place of my o2 when I install my turbo setup and MS3, or will I need to run it as well?
Yeah, it will replace your stock sensor. You can run it in the stock location until you get your turbo mounted as well. The stock one is only narrowband so it's only checking if AFRs are over or under 14.7:1. If you are using an analog signal for input into the MS you will have to either wire it into your cars existing o2 wiring or run wires from the controller to the MS3. If you are using CAN for input you will have to run the CAN-H and CAN-L wires into the MS.
02-27-2021, 12:19 PM
Noob here asking for advice....
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