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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 09-18-2007, 10:11 PM   #21
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Nord-locks are da bomb.
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Old 09-18-2007, 10:51 PM   #22
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If there one problem with turboing my miata its been dealing with broken studs and nuts...you can only re-drill and re-tap a manifold so much(just ask my butcherd stock greddy)....I even had to get a new flange welded to my ETD replacement....god it has been such a pain in my *** in the past. Don't easy out'em either,you break that **** off in the hole and your fucked, cause you can't get a good clean drill through for tapping.And its like uber carbon steel so dremal bits turn to dust...(I know cause it happend to me ).........

Ima saftey wire the lil basterds the next time it happens though, it just seems like the most effective way. And yes I have tried every type a nut/stud:gay: combo one can think of, and in time they all fail....but thats my unlucky experiance. which makes me jelous of all you ".. did it once and they stayed for years..." people...lucky basterds!
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Old 09-18-2007, 11:25 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
Nothing gay in here, just legit hardware stuff.
I can fix that.

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Old 09-19-2007, 01:45 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greddymx5 View Post
Have you already try to remove the broken stud using an easy out?
http://www.toolprice.com/product/6710A
The holes for the studs in the Begi manifolds go all the way through... so if I can find a way to keep turning them in, they'll come out on the inside of the mani... might be no need to back them out. I'm gonna soak them in PBBlaster for 24hrs and see where I stand.

No problems with studs on the DP side... stuck in there good.

I pulled 2 studs out of the block taking the mani off... no problem, they came out and went back in cleanly. I double-nut tightened ALL the block studs just for good measure.

I did find that 2 studs are broken off in the mani, so the PBBlaster should do the trick... maybe just take them to a machine shop with the right tools and get them out cleanly.

I ordered 18 of the FM locking nutz (4xMani, 5xDP) for 2 total sets. I also ordered the clutch bypass switch.

I broke the super small retaining clip that goes on the wastegate actuator arm... anybody know where I can get a small bag of those?

Now I've gotta remember where in town I bought those damn studs and get another bag. I'm gonna give those FM lockwashers a chance before I redrill for larger studs. Thanks all for the advice!
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Old 09-19-2007, 04:39 AM   #25
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try an easy out!!!!! Works like a charm....

For the retaining clip, a simple e clip will do the trick. Easy to find at any local car dealer... You could also use a circlip...
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Old 09-19-2007, 05:21 AM   #26
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I have this nifty little tool for installing studs, paid like $10 for it. I bought it from a kart shop (M8 mani studs are the same as what we use as wheel studs) for a couple of bucks, and I think he got it from either Harbor Freight or McMaster. His name is John, and he runs Fastech Racing in Monterey. **** the double-nut method; I just spin this tool in, tighten everything down, and then give it one tap in reverse and the tool backs right off. Easy peasy, and no ******* up threads with the double-nut method (my studs aren't long enough to hold two nuts).
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Old 09-19-2007, 10:43 AM   #27
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Sam, a paper clip or simillar will work fine. I lost that little clip once and replaced it with a nail that I bent into a U. Ran with that for at least a year. Replaced it when I pulled the WG actuator off to paint it, since it was in my hand any way.
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Old 09-19-2007, 03:35 PM   #28
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Here's another trick to go with the safety wire...

One of the issues I had over the years was the studs backing out of the cylinder head because the nuts were rusted to them. The best prevention I have found for this is "molybdenum lube".

I use it on the threads of anything connected to the exhaust manifold/turbo/downpipe/exhaust. Best example? I used the molybdenum lube on every exhaust system nut and stud of one of my Miatas when working on the exhaust. Sold the car to an individual who kept the car out in the weather and parked it on grass (the car was literally rotting in place). Eight years later I assisted in pulling the exhaust off of that car and the nuts threaded right off; no muss, no fuss, no broken studs or stripped threads. Good stuff and recommended.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide

It's also a good engine assembly lube; give a bit more protection while awaiting oil pressure on first start.
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Old 09-19-2007, 04:14 PM   #29
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^Thanks for the advice, I'll do some homework on that... but who are you? Do you work for Begi? I see you've got 27 posts in a year and a half but no profile info... what's your story.

I was on the phone with Corky a few days ago and he didn't say anything about the lube you mention. I didn't think there was anything that you could paint on the threads that would take the heat?

I dropped the manifold off at a local machine shop. They sat in PBBlaster overnight and should be a breeze for somebody with the right tools to take out. It didn't make sense to spend the cash on my own tools for this and then probably screw it up and cost me more in the long run. My washers have been shipped from FM.... just need to source studs, M8x1.25!
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Old 09-19-2007, 04:22 PM   #30
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Stupid.... you could have ordered them from FM
A local dealer could help you (nissan/saab)

For gaskets(i know nobody drives with them) you have a single layer saab gasket that works perfect (t2)
My greddy setup (2 years ago) was not completely flat so i needed a gasket.
Kept blowing the nissan gasket out..4x
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Old 09-20-2007, 05:36 PM   #31
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I don't work for BEGI, but, since Corky is a friend of mine, and for some reason he thinks I'm sorta smart for a University of Texas graduate (Corky's an Aggie and Aggies and Longhorns are mortal enemies in the wild), he asked me quite some time ago if I'd lurk on the boards and chime in whenever I could assist folks with issues on their turbo systems. I enjoy lurking here and following the banter back and forth through the threads. Each list has its own personality and this one tends to cater to the do-it-yourselfers.

I've known Corky for over a decade, drank more than a few margharitas with him, bought three turbo systems from him and allowed my Miata to be used for initial buildups of his products or for him to experiment on. This is why I have a custom, one-off turbo setup (that never saw production) on my car.

Low post count is due to the fact the US Army mobilized me back onto Active Duty for a couple of years and I've spent the past few months re-acclimatizing to my civilian job and the Miata world.

Ref the molybdenum lube, Corky has a full machine shop and hardware stock at his beck and call so minor irritants like broken bolt or studs don't faze him. Mere mortals like myself have to find ways to prevent stuff from breaking or stripping. Come to think of it, it's one of those things I never mentioned to him but now I think I should.

In any case, after multiple installations, I've learned a few tricks and lessons. I also tend to be a slow and conservative tuner; so far (knock on wood) I've had four forced induction systems on three engines with an approximate combined total of 234,000 miles with power ranges from 190 rwhp to the high side of 250rwhp with zero engine failures (I can't, however, say the same for differentials or transmissions!). I intend to keep it that way.

Best of luck on your setup.

FWIW,
Barry
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Old 09-20-2007, 06:16 PM   #32
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^Awesome... hope to see you around some more. Steph and Corky don't get over here often enough anymore.

The studs were (of all freaking places) at the Autozone 2minutes from my house... so no more worries there. I also found a local place called Fastenal that appears to be a chain... they had (and are big fans of) the Nordlock washers, so I bought a bag of 20 for 9$. I paid freakin FM $1.50 a piece for 18 and then $10 for shipping****!!!!

I'm going with the brass nuts that came with my studs for the manifold flange and using the oval-top nuts on the DP flange with Nordlocks all around... we'll see which one loosens first (hopefully, none of them ever loosen again!).

I'll have plenty of Nordlocks left over once my FM shipment gets here, so if anybody wants a set to try out, I'll send you a set of 9 for free... just PM me. I think I'll have 3 sets leftover, so first 3 get them. NOTE: If you've never had any loosening problems, don't bother. And it's certainly not worth the time or effort to completely remove your turbo just to install these washers if you don't have a constant loosening problem.

I'll keep y'all informed.
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Old 09-20-2007, 06:40 PM   #33
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Ah Fastenal...my local store is only open until 7pm, so I haven't been able to get there after work/before they close. But good to know they have Nordlock! Hopefully I'll make ti there sometime, and I'll pick some up to have "in my back pocket," as they say.
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Old 09-20-2007, 10:56 PM   #34
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sam you sure those are brass and not copper coated? brass is way weak for heat.
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Old 09-21-2007, 03:17 PM   #35
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I don't know... I'll take a picture when I get home... they look like really dull gold.
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Old 09-21-2007, 04:38 PM   #36
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I used lock washers coupled with thread locker and copper bolts, that ***** not going anywhere.
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:51 PM   #37
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this is the **** right here:



that's copper coated for love of turbo.
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Old 09-21-2007, 11:11 PM   #38
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I can't believe Philip didn't rename this thread to: Studs and their Nuts- My **** is loose!
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Old 07-09-2008, 04:12 AM   #39
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Bump for updates. My studs backed out of my BEGI manifold. I used Nordlocks with the nuts and studs that came with the manifold.

I'm thinking about replacing at least 3 out of 4 of the studs with bolts, since they're simpler and it looks like there's plenty of room for them.

-Mike
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Old 07-09-2008, 09:47 AM   #40
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6k miles and the the ones on the DP are still tight as ever. Due to space constraints, I coudn't get them to fit on the manifold side... but I'm a believer in the Nordlocks. All my turbine housings will use them in the future.
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