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Old 10-24-2007, 04:07 PM   #21
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cutting holes is fun and you know it:



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Old 10-24-2007, 06:19 PM   #22
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BTW, what size AN hose is good for the cooler system? 8, 10? Used to run 12 on the Mustang that saw some open track duty.
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Old 10-24-2007, 09:59 PM   #23
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no way I'm doing that **** to my car
I think running some tubes from the OE spoiler vent holes to the cooler mounted at the rack will work. Though it my seriously increase the need for a hole in the hood to vent some of the pressure.

-10 is the usual recommendation for "our" application
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Old 10-24-2007, 10:17 PM   #24
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IDK i was going to put one on the shelf of the firewall a nice thin design should work just fine and get alot of flow.
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Old 10-24-2007, 10:38 PM   #25
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I think all depends on how much you're looking to lower your temps- and that'll dictate size and exposure. I need to drop them a lot if I'm going to track this car in the summer... one day.
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Old 12-15-2007, 11:16 AM   #26
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Hey Rob, just ran across this from my holsets manual and thought i'd post it here for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Holset
8. Normal oil temperature is 95+/-5C (203+/-9F). It should not exceed 120C (248F) under any operating
condition.
I guess that proves that your temps are quite a bit too high.

fred.
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Old 12-15-2007, 11:44 AM   #27
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or maybe it shows why holsets are such a bargain
yes- it's still a project.
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Old 12-15-2007, 12:30 PM   #28
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apologies for my inability to take your tease/joke :-p

garrett are a pain in the **** for finding info "please refer to your authorised distributor" etc etc

but i found this for one of their aviation products :

Quote:
Originally Posted by garrett
Oil inlet temperature Minus 40F (-40C) to 260F (127C) for MIL-L-23699 type, and
Minus 40F (-40C) to 200F (93C) for MIL-L-7808 type.
rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/0/c5724721927d08cd862568f6004c3de6/$FILE/E3WE.pdf

this page lists nominal operating temps at 90C :

http://www.turbotech.com.au/garrett2.htm

also, all the oil temp guages have max around 300 - 320F

i know its still a project, i just remember you discussing what was and wasnt too high, so thought i'd post up what a reputable open company that i respect has to say on the matter.

the "normal" companies (cough-garrett-cough) website is so packed with marketing garbage that its impossible to find anything useful if indeed it is available.

fred.
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Old 12-15-2007, 12:48 PM   #29
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I don't know what my temps are post cooler, but I can only hope they're cooler than the oil in pan post combustion at ~275f or so. My oil feed leaves the block immediately after returning from the cooler, which IMO is ideal. Another reason those sandwich plates or the T at the pressure gauge are good idea.
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Old 12-15-2007, 01:22 PM   #30
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I don't have a condenser to worry about anymore, but here is where I put the cooler in my car.
Gotta love cell phone pics.
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Old 12-15-2007, 02:14 PM   #31
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That's nice. I've got an large IC, condenser and extra large rad stacked in there. I had the little oil cooler floating out front (after the big IC install) and there was insufficient exposure AND it's just too small (smaller than yours for sure- smallest trucool).

Sometimes if it weren't cell phone pics, we'd have no pics at all.
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Old 01-07-2008, 11:39 AM   #32
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Default a little progress

Got the new Mocal plate installed. The main diff between Mocal and the Hayden:
  • Mocal 1/2" ports
  • Hayden 3/8" ports
  • Mocal true coil spring tstat
  • Hayden flat coiled steel that covers bypass hole when hot
  • Mocal is about 1/2 the thickness of the Hayden

As mentioned before, the Mocal does well with some porting on the internals. The larger 1/2" ports leave some very hard edges and extra metal hanging out at the transition. Dremel with small carbide tip will clean it up in minutes.

The more shallow Mocal caused the fittings to interfere with some bosses on the block so it was far more difficult to install the lines. All adjusting had to be done off the block, then reinstalled to test fit. Bending -10 braided lines is a bitch in such a tight spot- inevitable the lines don't watch to thread straight, so patience is imperative.

I just left the small cooler installed since the larger cooler is going to require custom lines and maybe fittings. I'll just keep an eye on the ebay nascar surplus for deals. Anyway, this will give a direct comparison between the two plates for performance.

I played around with positioning the new big cooler in front of the steering rack and getting air from the spoiler ducts is going to require some serious plastic fabricating. The ducts are definitely design to go right to the brakes- which means I'll probably end up hacking the back side of the spoiler ducts up to get them over to the cooler.


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Old 01-07-2008, 12:14 PM   #33
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Mine's around the size of the larger photo above. I don't have a condenser anymore to get in the way. I don't have a thermostat, but the OEM water/oil cooler, so the oil temps are still being adjusted by the coolant temps. The lines are -8. The adapter on the block and remote adapter were touched up with a die grinder and cartridge rolls to enhance flow. The 90 fittings were also kept to a minimum.
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Old 01-07-2008, 01:47 PM   #34
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You don't need a tstat in the everglades.
It was 22f the last time I drove my car, that's the only reason I have it. I really want to keep the a/c and have gone to great lengths towards that effort up to this point. There's room for everything up to this point, so that should be the last item after the go-fast stuff is sorted out.
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Old 01-07-2008, 01:56 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
yeah, I've got that marked. Perfect for an NB, but no room on an NA w/o sticking some stoooopid holes in the bumper skin.
IMO you won't need to cut any holes in the bumper. There is so much turbulence and air moving around there because of the tire so most likely all you'll need is a fan to force circulate air through the cooler and the tire will take care of the rest ...
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Old 01-07-2008, 03:54 PM   #36
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I hope so. Plan was to install it first and see what the temps do. If they're still too high, then run ducts.
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Old 01-14-2008, 01:53 PM   #37
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I've done some driving and the oil temps are nearly identical as before with the Hayden sandwich plate.

So the next step is installing the big mercedes cooler. And I've decided at this point to install it next to the radiator in place of the cold side IC pipe, and then run the cold side IC pipe around the rad and up to the TB. Just makes sense to do it this way since that really is the optimum spot on my car- direct air flow and better access to add a fan.
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:23 PM   #38
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Default son of bitch

Day off and I'd planned to get the coldside IC pipe rerouted around the rad and get the oil cooler mounted. Looked to be a perfect fit until I slid it up and it came to a stop on the rad filler neck. Few pics to show the old IC pipe routing, oil cooler "almost" where it will go and the interference. I guess at this point I've got to cut my filler neck off and move it... somewhere. I might do a remote like splitime/dave.




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Old 02-04-2008, 06:29 PM   #39
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That's gonne be pretty nice when it's done. You could keep the filler neck on that side. Cut the neck and that hump off and move the whole thing back towards the motor. So it's offset closer to the throttlebody. That would give the cooler room and keep things simple. Just more aluminum welding.
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:39 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
...Just more aluminum welding.
I'm gonna need about 6 hours of practice before I put the mig to my rad... or I'll just wuss out and pay. But that puts the car outta commission. If I mig it right, it's done and I can reassemble.

I think it will be a good solution when it's done. Essentially a "twin" cooler with far more capacity and double pass cross flow rad for ~$300. When I'm done with this ****, I better have some oil temps in check.
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