On PCV’s, check valves and catch cans
#81
I finally got around to installing the AllStar catch can that was recommended earlier in the thread. I put it in the space that the washer bottle used to occupy.
Parts list:
- AllStar breather tank, 2 bungs (JEGS 049-ALL36109)
- 3/8" well-nuts
- 1/2" hose (cold side vent) and 3/8" hose (hot side vent)
- 1/2" hose adapter, Ace hardware. Barb on both ends; one goes in the cold side grommet, other goes into the 1/2" hose
- straight 3/8 NPT --> 3/8" hose barb (Ace hardware)
- right angle 3/8 NPT --> 1/2" hose barb (unobtainium- finally found it at Grainger)
The tank is big; it doesn't fit into this spot on the firewall straight up. I started drilling a big hole in the shelf to make clearance, then decided it was more trouble than it's worth, so I just mounted it on an angle. I don't think it will matter.
Well-nuts installed:
Can mounted. 1/2" cold side hose zip-tied to one of the IM runners, to keep it away from throttle cable. 3/8" hot-side hose running through the motor lift eyelet and under the plug wires.
Final install shot:
I'll have to remove the two well-nut screws to empty it, which should take all of 20 seconds.
Parts list:
- AllStar breather tank, 2 bungs (JEGS 049-ALL36109)
- 3/8" well-nuts
- 1/2" hose (cold side vent) and 3/8" hose (hot side vent)
- 1/2" hose adapter, Ace hardware. Barb on both ends; one goes in the cold side grommet, other goes into the 1/2" hose
- straight 3/8 NPT --> 3/8" hose barb (Ace hardware)
- right angle 3/8 NPT --> 1/2" hose barb (unobtainium- finally found it at Grainger)
The tank is big; it doesn't fit into this spot on the firewall straight up. I started drilling a big hole in the shelf to make clearance, then decided it was more trouble than it's worth, so I just mounted it on an angle. I don't think it will matter.
Well-nuts installed:
Can mounted. 1/2" cold side hose zip-tied to one of the IM runners, to keep it away from throttle cable. 3/8" hot-side hose running through the motor lift eyelet and under the plug wires.
Final install shot:
I'll have to remove the two well-nut screws to empty it, which should take all of 20 seconds.
#83
You raise a good point. I'm going to check it periodically for a while to see how fast it fills up. My hope is that it's slow enough that I only have to empty it every oil change.
If I were to do it again, I would have went with a smaller can that could be more easily drained, maybe one with the little clear indicator tube.
If I were to do it again, I would have went with a smaller can that could be more easily drained, maybe one with the little clear indicator tube.
#85
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To answer borka's question it is baffled.
I think the manner in which you might have trouble will be the hot side hose pooling oil on its way to the can. It needs not have a belly in it.
You may attach it to the firewall in the same location if you build a bracket and let the two inlets on the can be level with each other and lean the bottom outward toward the front of the car above the frame rail. Or something. But the inlets should be level enough that there's no pooling in the hose.
I think the manner in which you might have trouble will be the hot side hose pooling oil on its way to the can. It needs not have a belly in it.
You may attach it to the firewall in the same location if you build a bracket and let the two inlets on the can be level with each other and lean the bottom outward toward the front of the car above the frame rail. Or something. But the inlets should be level enough that there's no pooling in the hose.
#87
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You raise a good point. I'm going to check it periodically for a while to see how fast it fills up. My hope is that it's slow enough that I only have to empty it every oil change.
If I were to do it again, I would have went with a smaller can that could be more easily drained, maybe one with the little clear indicator tube.
If I were to do it again, I would have went with a smaller can that could be more easily drained, maybe one with the little clear indicator tube.
#95
I'm struggling with a head breather setup on a friend's Rotrex VVT engine.
To try to prevent oil coming out on the hot side vent, removed the cold side breather from the inlet manifold (taped on the inlet side of course) , and vented directly to a can to help remove pressure from the hot side breather.
Strangely, no oil sign on cold side can, but keeps just puking oil on the hot side. Like almost a QT per 20 minute session. What am I missing here? I know that possibly the engine was assembled with incorrect ring gap, but I don't understand how does a side keeps puking oil and another is completely dry even though our tracks run clockwise.
BtW, head had venting ports opened up as per many tutorials on here.
To try to prevent oil coming out on the hot side vent, removed the cold side breather from the inlet manifold (taped on the inlet side of course) , and vented directly to a can to help remove pressure from the hot side breather.
Strangely, no oil sign on cold side can, but keeps just puking oil on the hot side. Like almost a QT per 20 minute session. What am I missing here? I know that possibly the engine was assembled with incorrect ring gap, but I don't understand how does a side keeps puking oil and another is completely dry even though our tracks run clockwise.
BtW, head had venting ports opened up as per many tutorials on here.
Changed catch can from drivers side to passanger side. Driver's side vent kept closed. From 1Lt + of oil in a 20 min track session to residual fumes. This on the same CW track. Next week we'll have a Trackday in a CCW ( Ascari Race Resort) track and report back.
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