Savington

iTrader: (31)

Yes, I would LOVE to save $8 dollars and put my valvetrain and motor at serious risk.

Zabac

iTrader: (39)

Sam, i already have that PCV and figured someone had already used it and knows if it is a POS or not...i never said, lets try it now...re-read my post and yo will see what i meant, except take your time reading it this time, lol

emmi

i popped it out a week before the turbo install.. i'll check again tonight. kinda freaked out now. good thing i work weekends at an autoparts store XD

bryantaylor

iTrader: (5)

i just went to advance and got a gtx pcv. i still had the stock one in with just a breather filter on the VC. i noticed i had a tad of oil on the hood where the filter is. the advance sub $3 pcv sealed on the "blow trough test"

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

We already do that with the breather on the driver side of the valve cover.

The difference between the one you got at advanced and the one you get at the dealer is one is metal and one is plastic. The dealer part doesn't fall apart and shouldn't leak( they have been known to). The problem with the plastic ones is that they usually do leak, you can't produce 10 psi with your mouth to test how well it seals. The plastic one can get you by but it's sub ideal.
*I have a plastic one*

chriscar

iTrader: (24)

Why mess around when there's a proven fix with a factory quality part for $10?

C

emmi

i changed out mine to an 'general' GTX pcv because it was right there and it was free... i tried comparing them side by side and it looks like the insides are different but the shell is similar

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I was just going to order one from my dealer and they quoted me 21 bucks. Is that gonna be the standard mazda dealer price or do different dealers offer different prices?

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Try Rosenthal or Trussville.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Rosenthal sells it for $12. I love driving past them on the way to work and picking up all my factory parts

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

12 + 5 for shipping = 17. I save a whole four dollars.

Any reason why theres is so cheap?

edit: just called a second place, 23.10 and id have to cross a toll bridge for 8 bucks to get it.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

cause tommy orders and stocks his own factory parts. if you order from rosenthal, order from tommy or through finishlineperformance.com

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

Hmm, I guess ill have to see how much it will cost from them.

For fun I just called a place in the city and they quoted me get this.....26.25+tax.

Lol. I should call Mazda directly and ask how much for a lot of 50 and start selling them.

edit: finishline doesnt have the valve on their site.

urgaynknowit

iTrader: (5)

i just bought one from the dealer yesterday,
it was 24.99
looked very close in size and shape, but insides were different
the car seems to hold boost better in second gear,
i think my old one was leaking due to excessive oil on breather
install took a grueling 25 seconds

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I call mazda HQ this afternoon, wanted to find out about buying a lot of 50 units. They told me to go to the dealer and arrange a purchase of that kind of quantity and it was the dealers prerogative to offer me a bulk discount.

I dont get it, where does the dealer get its parts?

emmi

prolly at at the same place autoparts stores get them... they just charge differently

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Anybody else put compressed air on their valve to test? I'm using a supra turbo after market valve and as suspected it's leaking. I put 20psi on it and it leaked all the way down to 5psi. It's about 2 years old, but only has 2k miles on it. Metal construction too.

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

I have a question. How are you testing it, meaning how are you regulating how much pressure you place on it?

My brothernlaw has a portercable compressed air tank and I wouldnt mind testing my new pcv before installing it.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

depends on the compressor: If it has a regulator (most bigger units do) then set it to whatever the max boost is you're going to run. Put a hose on the manifold end of the valve, and the air blower attachment on the compressor. Then stick the blower in the end of the hose and squeeze the trigger. The valve shouldn't let any air pass. A really cheap compressor might not have a regulator, so you just turn it on until the air in the tank reaches your max boost level, then shut it off and proceed with the blow test.

Just tested a "spare" OE valve I found in the garage from a B engine and it had no leak at ~40psi.