Picking up HKS top mount w/t25 and lines for $300!
 

Well, I'm going turbo! :D

Ill be picking this up today. From what I understand, it's a HKS powerdercoated top mount manifold w/t25 from a older sr20. It has lines included. I'll need to make a custom down pipe and also get intake piping.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S...164342_834.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425253041

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4...64236_862.jpg]

Video of the shaft play. Do you think I'll need a rebuild? https://www.flickr.com/photos/xxmachonexx/16066886383/

Long story short, I have a newish oem clutch and I don't want to change it again unless I have to so I want to stay with what I believe is the stock 7psi on the turbo. The stock clutch is good for 160whp yes? I'd like to stay within those limits, for now at least. So thats why unless I pick up a cheap intercooler locally, I want to run no intercooler. Right now I have rb header/catless connecting pipe on stock muffler. Wide band is on the way.

Question, will MS3 make the car significantly more reliable than running some kind of piggy back? Significantly as in $1,200 more?

Advice on any level is much appreciated.

Got it! Barely ANY in out shaft play, which I hear is the bad one. It has some up and down play but the blades do not touch the compressor at all. I did now see and understand I have to clock the turbo but what about the following?

Did coolant run through it or something?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425285367

What is that hole on the bottom of the intake thing? Is that to recirculate?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425285367

Some scuffing inside the compressor
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425285367

Manifold looks brand new! :D
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425286320
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425286320
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425286320

White dust is most likely from running lean on the previous car? Please tell us you have MS and larger injectors planned.

The hole on the compressor outlet adapter is most likely for a wastegate source, although I think the turbo has one built in on the front of the compressor housing. I suggest plugging both of those and adding one close to the throttle body, post intercooler pressure loss.

It either ran really hot, or with race gas? Looks like soot from my dirtbike when I run vp.

Used ms come up every now and again. Be patient, use this time to read all about it. Allofit.

That turbo is a small chunk of what you a getting into. More like a morsel.


Ahh, beat me to it while I was eating with an open browser.^^^^

I JUST ORDERED THE MS3 PnP w/maf delete from 949 for $1,200!!! :drool::idea:

I'm planning to stay stock boost of what I believe is 7psi for now so I'm hoping I can run it with my stock 265's and non inter cooled. The temps here are hardly ever over low 90's and usually high humidity.

I am kinda thinking maybe I should just rebuild the turbo while it's out and I don't need it.. I want to do this right the first time around because I don't want to be stuck riding moped for too long in rainy Hawaii. What do you guys think, should I maybe open it up and check and clean or something?

I just noticed the AR 80. Is it a BB or journal bearing? Ball bearing can't be rebuilt unless you buy the chra, for a lot of moneys.

It's a journal bearing.

Wants to do this right. Doesn't want injectors or intercooler.

I'll keep my eye open for some oem small side mount or equivalent.

Tons of recent info on the eBay intercooler to get.

Took forever to find but I might have found a starter downpipe that I can cut & weld to fit my top mount t25. This can make at least the elbow. It's for a sr20 swap Datsun lol
Cxracing Turbo Downpipe for Datsun 510 s13 SR20DET Swap Top Mount Turbo GT28 | eBay
The rest should be easy for a shop to do no?

A shop will most likely NOT want to mess with hacking up a junk manifold, so that you can try and save a few bucks. Go find the correct downpipe for that manifold/turbo you have. If there is such a thing, it wont be on EBAY.
You need to go read a bunch of people's builds around here, read alllll of the stickies and then proceed.

Without a build sheet, you seem to really have no idea what you are getting into.

Good luck man

Im looking at various o2 housings

What do you mean by o2 housings?

Aka turbo outlet, elbow, downpie

What.

Did some googling, apparently thats what its called in the DSM world?

Can someone tell me a link or explain to me what which lines do and what lines I need to run this top mount turbo? Sturovo is going to make a turbo outlet elbow for me and I see that he also makes lines but I don't know what I need. The turbo did come with some lines as you can see above..

That welded wiener looks like your oil drain, the bent hard line is probably oil in and the two banjo bolts are the water in and out. Look up your turbo manufacturer for proper water flow direction. Probably doesn't matter too much though.

What injectors did you decide to use?

I'm shooting to stay like at 160whp so I don't believe I will need new injectors. I'll also be trying non inter cooled. I'm going to keep boost at 7psi and will keep a close eye with my incoming wideband and this :D

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425864492

Please use our advice and get a set of injectors and some type of intercooling. You can get ebay intercoolers that work well for low cost. The injectors vary new -vs- used, but can be found for a good price. Don't rush the build, do it right.

I appriciate your concern. But thing is, thats like another $500. I live in Hawaii and its usually like 80's and highs of low 90's so it is relatively cool and high humidity. I will make sure to keep an eye on the temps and injector duty. if at any point I see anything alarming, I'll pony up.

You keep saying you understand.
But you don't.

But I guess if your goal really is only a measly 160, it will likely work.

and at least both those items can be added later without too much work

90's ambient will result in like 180-220* ait on a boosted pull. I'm sure your engine doesn't like swallowing lava

180-220.. hmm.. 180 sounds within reason… What's too hot?

20-40 over ambient
maybe 180 peak during a long boosted pull or on track, but otherwise no it's not.
But you should find out the hard way and post results ;)

Yeah, you should definitely save the 400 bucks by skipping the injectors, and just buy a whole engine two weeks after you get this thing on boost. Lava in, magma inside.

I am under the the impression that ms3 and wideband will let me keep an eye out on potential issues. Are you saying otherwise?

Correct. You have no idea what egt's are, and could never respond quickly enough on boost if it started to detonate.

Do you really think that people haven't tried your route? You seem to be in a super hurry to screw this thing up. Yesterday you didn't know what the lines coming out of the turbo were for, let alone run megasquirt. I was confused as all hell when I started using MS, but I was only na and had a huge margin for error.
What on earth makes you think that you are mentally prepared to take on this task at this point in time?
If you don't slow down, this thing is destined to be an artificial reaf.

You also bought the most expensive MS possible...you could have gotten a MS2 from the forums for like $400 then had $800. Thats enough for IDs and a Stage 2 intercooler from fab9...

That was easily your biggest mistake.

I thought I need ms3 for the nb2..

My plan is to learn about tuning while NA until summer then go turbo. If it is the case that I dont freakin need the ms3 I'd be better off selling it for a small loss and picking up something for $400.

You can build an MS3 yourself for ~$500. Read the Megasquirt for noobs thread and you will learn more.

I thought I needed the vvt controls and sumother stuff and price goes up to like almost 1000

Well this sucks.

No, MS3+MS3x if you build it yourself has VVT and everything. 519$ from DIYAutotune.

So I paid $700 for someone to put it together? You serious? There's no other differences?

No, the MSpnpPro has more features. But if you don't even care about getting new injectors then you probably don't care about those either.

Well this sucks.

Stop sucking and start reading. I think the very first post either here or on the other site, I told you to buy a used ms 2. You didn't even research for ten seconds. You just "knew".

stop misleading this noob

no you didn't pay 700 for someone to assemble it
yes the ms3 is awesome and what you need to properly and nicely control your nb2

yes it's worth every penny of the 1k you spent on it.
next guy that tells someone they're stupid for paying a PROFESSIONAL to assemble an ecu better have a self built one in their car or I'm gonna e-slap them

I'd say 70% of the people here are not capable of building their own ms3 properly, and should absolutely buy a pnp unit from rev, brain, or diy

Sorry paw. I'm ducking out on this one, as I don't really know myself.

lol

no worries, I just rather see people running quality units and leaving the building to the pro's or only attempting it if they're comfy with wiring and boards and all that other mumbo jumbo. I personally suck at it, and gladly pay for the pro's to build me one.

back to topic tho: OP, your awesome sauce ms3 isn't gonna stop you from doing stupid things. It's not a self-aware robot. I'm hoping the future MS4 will have a feature that electrocutes the owner when they try to run it on a crappy setup assuming a baller ecu will solve all their problems and poor choices

ms-pro = good choice
not running intercooler = silly choice

It's cool, checks and balances. I had stepped into territory I am unfamiliar with. Ecu's.

He made it clear in the beginning he wanted to do this build as cheap as possible. Skipping out on an intercooler and injectors but buying the best of the best ECU is stupid. Is buying an MSpnp-Pro stupid? No not at all. But doing it at the cost of injectors and an intercooler?

Pretty sure it was directed at me haha.

meh, it was directed at anyone that tells someone not to buy an assembled unit when they haven't built one themselves.
buying best ecu is not stupid even in that case, thinking the best ecu is gonna fix other stupid decisions is what's stupid.

you know what I mean, and I know what you mean, so it's all good.

let's all make out now.
:makeout:

Fair nuff :)

Looks like I'm picking up a Audi a4 intercooler. It's top piping so I'll do the radiator tilt method.

For how much.

FWIW, Aidan did build his, but he has a high tolerance for experimenting, and is smarter than the average dope in terms of figuring out electrical bits. Recommending to everyone that they build their own MS and quoting prices really is only valid if someone does not place a value on their time.

For folks that DO place a value on their time, and the benefit of a guarantee and customer service and stuff, it's well worth the money of buying a nice, new, professionally-assembled one.

Hinano, an MS2e would have fit your needs, but at this point you have the Pro so you might as well run it. By the time you sell it and ship it you've eaten up half the difference and it's not worth it. The first part of your plan is sound -- put the MS on NA and tune it over the summer.

It's the second part that needs work. While you're putting it together, get some injectors and a cheap intercooler setup, like the one Deezums found. There's info about it in his thread.

You also don't need to buy expensive injectors. Here's some more info on PNP injectors:
Fuel Injectors - Miata Turbo FAQ

Do you have anyone nearby who can help you with the MS? Focus on that, as you plan to, NA, then worry about the injectors and intercooler later. You'll come around.

Not sure. Like 20-30 bucks. I know you found the ebay one for 60 bucks but theres also shipping to Hawaii that I have to consider but also, although I removed the ac, I am running a stock but good condition radiator so I don't want to block off the whole radiator with a long intercooler. I think the Audi one is a perfect fit. I'm open to input though.I think I'll try to put together a 4-ply house set up if it's not too pricy.

Well thanks for the words of encouragement. If I do have to take a loss over $100, I'll just keep it. Regardless, I'll keep collecting turbo parts and I don't know, if I don't get any inquiries on the MSP I might as well just run it. I'll start looking for cheap oem injectors, thanks.

I would highly suggest keeping the MSP and learning on it. Go find a laptop, and install the MS. It will have a steep learning curve, but well worth it in the end. Run the car naturally aspirated while you are learning the MS. Far less likely you damage your engine that way. Once you are comfortable with the MS, install bigger injectors and then retune. After that install the turbo stuff and enjoy boost.

Awesome.

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...x-money-83388/

WOW.

Yup. Piggy Doodoo. I am open to feedback..

On a different front, got a question for you guys. So Sturuvo is making a turbo elbow for my top mount set up. Looks great!, pics below. My question is, since I have the RB mid pipe thats 2.4', i asked Sturovo to reduce the elbow to a 2.5'. He told me that if he were making the whole down pipe, that he would put the reducer further down the exhaust. He is asking if I want a 2.75 reducer added to the elbow or if I want the actual elbow modified to 2.5. I am thinking that maybe if it's already reduced to 2.5 that I can have my friend maybe teach me how to weld a couple relatively straight 2.5' pipes together. Does reducer location affect strength?
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...ps43basatx.jpg
http://i578.photobucket.com/albums/s...psdrf7z6r9.jpg

Feedback? I think this is prime example why between your original choice of 160hp with a turbo, or 140hp n/a, you picked the VERY wrong option, despite EVERYONE telling you it was the wrong option.

I'm unsure how to answer your current question. Do i take the chance that you'll actually take feedback this time? Or should i deliberately answer with the wrong answer so you'll pick the correct one to go against the direction, as you've done every step of the way?

Come on man y u givin me such a hard time :(

The thing is this, I really have no place on this island to use a 200whp Miata. The cost to go from a 160whp stock clutch set up to a 170-200+ setup is very big, for me. I'm a full time student and only get work here and there. I felt like I had a good opportunity when I saw the manifold and turbo for $300 so I jumped on it and I don't regret it. We all make mistakes along the way and maybe I'm not putting in as much research time as some others but I'm doing the best I can while I juggle school and try to jump on deals. I seriously am not looking for upping the boost from the stock 7psi and if I were to change my mind, it would only be in the fall when I start working and at that time; I'll have more money to do a lot more than I am currently able to afford. So as of right now, I'm just trying to do a basic but reliable setup with a goal of yes, a measly 160whp. Anything more and I'd also have to include new tires so I'm not just spinning at the autocross.

On another note, intercooler is on its way. $20! :D
Also getting intercooler piping and a fake greddy bov for $25! Lol! Flame suit on! But really, I'm not expecting the bov to work right but I'd like to Take it apart for fun and will pressure test it because I've never had one and maybe if I'm lucky it will function :) if neither work, I'll pony up for better quality parts. All in fun yea :)

Doesn't have much money, buys fake blow off valve to see if it works. I'm so f ing confused.

Sell that turbo, and stick to NA. Get a real header,exhaust, (can he run a exhintake on a vvt motor?) A 3D printed intake (because you like wierd stuff) and some suspension. No e bay crap.

Enjoy cheap autocross in a really fun car.

feedback: you're an idiot.
I always knew you were one, and gave you another chance cause I thought there was hope.

Nope.
So much for this thread.

I wish I could insert that sad trombone sound, the one when you lose on the Price is Right.

Hey my bad, I didn't have a sig set up on this forum. Here my mods. Koni sports/GC Coil-overs w/Eibach 440/300 on FatCat bump stops, Fidanza 8lb flywheel, Racing Beat Header&Connecting Pipe

Yes I'm on a tight budget and yes, i am rolling the dice with these used parts BUT, at $45, I think it's worth it. Reason being, the lower end intercooler stuff would cost from a couple hundred and then the "quality" stuff would be double that so $50 on taking a change and having some parts to play with is worth it in my opinion. It's the first time I've looked at parts like this and it makes a difference to me to be able to handle it rather than just looking at pictures.

:hustler: