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Old 01-22-2010, 09:55 AM   #1
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Default Question about adjustable fuel pressure regulators, ratios etc.

I recently installed a B&M adjustable fuel pressure regulator similar to this setup:

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(noteics are links from hondaswap.com, but identical regulator)

My question is; Are those B&M adjustable fuel pressure regulators 1.1 ratio or do they just raise the pressure compared to stock?

Does the B&M raises pressure under boost similar to an Aeromotive or will it just go to its maximum pressure when there is no vacuum?



Because I do see some Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulators that do say 1.1 and I am planning on buying one, but I am also undecided if just buy a RRFPR like a BEGI.
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:58 AM   #2
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Those are all 1:1 regulators. They allow you you increase the base fuel pressure for more capacity.

What sorta ECU do you have?
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:46 PM   #3
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Its a 1.8 dohc engine with stock ECU, I come here to the miata forums as all settings between Proteges and Miatas are very similar. In fact the SAFC APexi install DIY was taken from this miataturbo forum.

It has 550cc injectors, RX7 AFM, NGK7 iridium spark plugs, Walbro fuel pump with [email protected] compression pistons (215 compression), the Intake manifold is from a Mazda 323 GTR (single runner). It runs pretty strong at 10 psi on a chinacharger t3/t4 with a big FMIC... So far after about 4 months the engine keeps running strong with 93 octane gasoline.

Has no cat, 2.5 exhaust with straight magnaflow muffler and has a Innovate wideband installed somewhere near the firewall at the 12 o'clock location.

I want to go higher on boost, to 15 psi but then have to bump the B&M fuel pressure regulator. It runs very good at 15 but then it kills the low end running extremely rich.

At 10 psi under full boost stays consistent 12 to 12.5 up to redline. I tested a few passes at 15 and thats when the T3/T4 wakes up nasty delivering an insane pull on 4th and 5th gear and one can really hear it spool.

The plan is to set vacuum and cruising with the B&M regulator by lowering the fuel pressure giving me much better fuel economy during cruising and then set boost fuel pressure with the BEGI.

To monitor everything I got a fuel pressure, mechanical oil and boost gauge and of course the wideband. It may seem crazy but I also use a custom made sound amplifier which it clips to the engine block and route a cable inside the cabin put the headphones and set timing until any minor knocking is heard. This little gadget works magic and thats how I have setup the car for the last four months.
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:27 PM   #4
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get a real ecu.
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:19 PM   #5
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Whats the point of answering one question and then be a total ******** a few moments later?

It would be awesome to have a "real' ecu, then again its like turbocharging a Miata and then some ******* like you says get a "real" car, buy a Subaru STi or now that we are talking about Mazda, go for a "zoom zoom" Miata LOL!


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Old 01-23-2010, 02:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psiturbo View Post
Whats the point of answering one question and then be a total ******** a few moments later?

It would be awesome to have a "real' ecu, then again its like turbocharging a Miata and then some ******* like you says get a "real" car, buy a Subaru STi or now that we are talking about Mazda, go for a "zoom zoom" Miata LOL!
Is English your first language? I'm not sure what you're trying to communicate.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:40 PM   #7
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By the way, for those with intense knowledge and hardcore tuners, from mazda-speed.com website... > afm delete?


And if case you are more lazy than me by not installing a MesquirtingUKit, here is the reply from one of the users (mprhead5).

"It is my understanding that the stock AFM as you like to call it can handle a fair ammount of airflow/power. And if you get to the max airflow you can upgrade to the larger RX7 version relitivly painlessly.

It is my opinon that when tuning a car it is best to look at it from the standpoint of what can I do with what I have and not what can I transform it into. looking at it from this standpoint will save you a bundle of cash and usualy only cost you a few HP. For instance I did a 350.00 turbo upgrade and only have 10-15 whp less than others that spent 2K+. In reality the AFM is ok for your application. I had the figures at one point but I can't remember where. If it comes to the point where you are flowwing more air than it can support then you can upgrade to a the RX-7 unit for better airflow. as for the ECU end I would point you toward a E-manage since its well tested for your application.

the question is do you want to spend 1k or 3k on this car? With a 1.6l car on a greddy turbo I would be more inclined to say 1k.

BTW what mods do you now have installed? and what are your goals with this car in the long/short tearm.

add your mods into your sig if you can

for a greddy Kit I would advise

BIPES
Intercooler
New DP ( I know somone makes em for the greddy kit )
E-manage and probebly bigger injects

thats all cheap stuff and will give you great perfomance without having to spend 1600 on an xede or 1200 on a link ecu.

If you want to go high end I think the link from FM is the big daddy of NA ECU options"

I went through all this discussion long time ago and once again the thread gets hijacked.
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:01 PM   #8
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Woops, accidental post... sorry.
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:04 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psiturbo View Post
Whats the point of answering one question and then be a total ******** a few moments later?

It would be awesome to have a "real' ecu, then again its like turbocharging a Miata and then some ******* like you says get a "real" car, buy a Subaru STi or now that we are talking about Mazda, go for a "zoom zoom" Miata LOL!
get a real ecu fagot
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psiturbo View Post



By the way, for those with intense knowledge and hardcore tuners, from mazda-speed.com website... > afm delete?

BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH
this is the worst post I've ever read. and great job linking off our site to something years old and dated.

I stand by my comment. Get a real ECU. Dicking around with an RX7 AFM is a great way to get:

1. less than optimal AFRs in boost without any way to control them.
2. ZERO power gains.
3. More congestion in the engine bay.
4. Impress your "hardcore" tuners at mazda-speed.com

ECU options are so cheap now that band-aids should never be considered as a "budget" solution. You'll end up spending countless hours installing parts and "tinkering" to get it running lean < 5K and pig rich above 5K. Install a megasquirt, injectors and just be done with it. Fooling the stock ECU to run boost inefficiently is so beneath us.
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:24 PM   #11
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No you're wrong,
it makes much more sense to get a clusterfuck of bandaids half of which don't work then spend days trying to get it all to run shitty just to save 40 dollars
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:28 PM   #12
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Are you saying that black trail of smoke behind your car as you wash the cylinders down in gasoline is good and what the hardcore tuners do?

Call me Kayne, but I prefer the autotune button.
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:41 PM   #13
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absolutely. no smoke = not hardcore enough
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