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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 01-28-2007, 06:59 PM   #1
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Ok, installing my greddy kit w/ intercooler, yadda yadda

I really need a descripion or a picture of where to hook up my boost gauge asap, running out of time. Please!

I asked in diy figureing i might get a quicker response, thanks.

Edit: The gauge is a fm one, -30, to +30psi, with the explosion at 30 psi.

It came with a long black tube, just trying to figure out where exactly to plug it in!
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:01 PM   #2
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like where to run the line? or how to put it in the cabin?

run the line anywhere off the intake manifold....you can tee off the FPR, and the two ports above the TB.
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:02 PM   #3
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Any vacuum line coming right off the intake manifold, before any other things like check valves if you need to cut into an existing line.
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:03 PM   #4
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At the very front of the manifold are two small nipples. If you have cruise control, both will be in use. As you can see in my pic, the one normally used for CC is just capped. That is where I tapped both my boost gauge and BOV.

Last edited by samnavy; 08-01-2007 at 10:35 PM.
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:12 PM   #5
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THANKS A TON, ONE MOre question, though it should go in greddy chat, ill just ask it here.

Ok, greddy normal oil return (non tapped pan) Where the hell is this suppose to hook up to?, i know its on the pass side of the engine block- does anyone have picture of this, or a good description, thanks,.
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:22 PM   #6
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Nipple with rubber cap on it above oil pan forward of oil filter.
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:40 PM   #7
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THANK YOU!, one last before i start it.

What the hell goes on the vac line off of the wastegate?
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:44 PM   #8
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Do you mean the wastegate actuator itself?

The wastegate is actuated by boost pressure. You must hook up a vaccum line to the wastegate the same as the boost gauge and BOV and FPR.

You can see the wastegate actuator in this picture with a small piece of silicone hose attached to the nippple on the can. It is often recommended that the source for this hose come off the manifold... I don't know if the Greddy compressor housing has a nipple built in, but a lot of turbos have a nipple directly on the housing as you can see the nipple on the DSM T25 housing in the pic.

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Old 01-28-2007, 07:45 PM   #9
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what do you mean? are you asking where you source signal for the can (there are a few places, you can play around to see if any work better than others)? or what device can be between the source and can (boost control)?
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fireindc View Post
THANK YOU!, one last before i start it.

What the hell goes on the vac line off of the wastegate?
Vaccum line.

If your turbo has a nipple you can hook it to that. If not, hook it up to the manifold.

edit: damn im slow
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Old 01-28-2007, 07:52 PM   #11
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The greddy/mitsu turbo does have a nipple. That's where I source signal for my actuator. No spike issues with my FM mbc
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Old 01-28-2007, 08:38 PM   #12
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WOW thank you guys so ******* much. Just got back from some... lets say spirited driving.

Just spins second at 5 psi, great

it was more than i expected to say the least.

Its cold here, and i never got to get my bipes in this weekend, im running about 5 psi on 10 deg timing, on 91 oct gas and with an intercooler, im gonna listen for knocking, but dont expect to hear any.
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:09 PM   #13
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Those settings should do you fine for a few months until it gets warmer. A Bipes will solve all your timing/knock problems when they do show up.

Take it easy on the clutch... too much "spirited" driving, even at 5psi will soon see you slipping.

The argument on manifold or housing for the tap is due to the pressure loss over the IC. If you tap the manifold, you'll see an honest regulation of the wastegate of pressure where it counts the most (going into the engine). Pressure at the manifold will always be less than at the compressor outlet due to the IC. Some people swear that the boost is also "smoother" at the manifold and helps to regulate any spike or fluctuation at the compressor.
However, there are lots of stock application cars (DSM's) that tap directly off the compressor and run just fine.

Either way, it is recommended by most people if you're looking for a uniform way to tune and get the most consistant results, that you tap your BOV/Wastegate/Gauge all at the same place.
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:19 PM   #14
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there are others who swear that the shortest length of tube to the actuator performs best. My actuator is sourced off the compressor nipple. It works fine, and to me seems better than routing a long hose across the engine. Everything else (bov, gauge, map) comes from the intake mani.
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