rider_alex89

Has anyone ever attempted this? Im going through the building process at the moment and hitting snags as far as downpipes go (need custom work done as the flange is a 6 bolt off the turbo) and what not. Just wanted to see if anyone had any insight as I'm debating getting rid of the rb unit and getting a t28 instead.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

Better yet, get a 2560. Dont use that piece of **** in your hands.

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

just dont

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I've used a ball bearing basically upgrade version of what you have, an HKS2535 I believe it was.

Had to make custom mani and downpipe for it. Otherwise nothing different.

rider_alex89

Whats so bad about that unit? it seems ok as far as design and I think they were ball bearing from the factory

18psi

iTrader: (76)

why don't you actually post the full specs of the turbo instead of "seems" and "I think"

rider_alex89

the reaserch I have done on the unit says that they were ball bearing from factory but I may be wrong. I obviously know less than others when it comes down to it so I'm asking for guidance not rudeness on others part

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I don't care what you're asking. I'm telling you to post up specs and links/references to the info you researched so we know you actually did some research. Otherwise no one will care to help you and you can enjoy your worthless thread.

every other lazy n00b says "in the research I've done" when prefacing their random clueless question.

the ones that actually put in the time, we reward with tons of info and input. We are actually really nice here

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

MT is like my middle school math class.

You only get credit if you show all your work.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

And when you copy off others and too stupid to change the name and copy that too, you get detention.

MustangMike

iTrader: (6)

I'm pretty sure the rb20det turbos used a ceramic wheel that is known to explode. Probably not a good choice as far as reliability goes.

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

Fixed

ryansmoneypit

iTrader: (6)

We could start with the fact that even you stated, it is impossible to find a manifold and down-pipe for this turbo. Unless you are a pretty decent fabricator with a shop full of equipment, then using an oddball turbo will get really expensive, very fast.

rider_alex89

Admitedly the time i put into research on this unit was in the hours area after I bought it but because i was usually aided by blue moon it made it not very good research. Im definetely considering another unit as I have tried to build the kit around the turbo and not put in proper hours on it. To tell the truth I was actually going to pick up another turbo (t3/t4) which probably wouldnt have been the best choice but saw this one and through because it was smaller it would better suit my power goals.

rider_alex89

Youd have to start with the basic pipe layout and make it fit a flange (which i do have both of) but I goofed on buyin a manifold that was for a t2 becasue somewhere in my research I failed to note that its a t3 flange so I got a manifold for a t2 instead.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

its gonna spool like poo on your 1.6 and is not a very good turbo overall.

rider_alex89

Yeah cant even clock it properly because the damn wastgate actuator is bolted to the front. like into the compressor housing on the front. Waste of 60 bucks for sure

ridethecliche

iTrader: (2)

That's a pretty cheap way to learn that lesson especially since you can dump it now...

borka

iTrader: (1)

"All the research that i have done" = oh cool a $60 turbo. (chugs down the bluemoon), seems fairly decent size for a miata. >>>> clicks buy-it-now button,

Gets turbo in the mail, goes online, sees ZERO manifolds that would work and signs up for Miataturbo.net and here we are.

true story.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you ended up with a T2 manifold though. That's good. That'll work well with an SR20 or GT2554.

Assuming it's a quality T2 manifold and not the $100 ebay special.