Well at least you got that part right
That's a good start. Now stop wasting money on junk parts and you'll have a properly boosted Miata in the future

 

It is almost impossible to be broke and boosted for more than a month. Band-aids over scabs, that's how broke and boosted ends.

 

Obviously a standalone ECU is the way to go for any type of engine management but thats not to say that a FMU setup cannot be reliable as I had a FMU on my old miata build for YEARS and it was really good for what it was. Im not saying to do that, but it can be done.

 

He bought a Megasquirt.

 

Right, I was just saying this for anyone else that wanted to go down the "broke and boosted" lifestyle.

 

Sounds awful.

 

I dunno. Brain's commented recently saying that for the truly low boost builds, it's a good way to keep **** simple. The big issues start the second you try pushing the limits on the band aids.

 

No. That's nonsense. Don't spread it.

The only part about it working well is the fact that most of the time the car will start and run. That's it.
Everything else sucks

 

So derailing a little bit, has anyone ever had any super long wait times ordering things from 949 racing? Ordered the ecu plus afm delete and serial cable and I haven't seen any update on the shipping. Called an Friday bit do response back

 

They were at SLB. Of the vendors i've ordered from 949 Racing is consistently the fastest, every time.

 

they were racing on sunday, to sell on monday

 

Update, got my hands on an sr20 t25 in ok shape, will obviously need rebuilding but I'm currently stuck on the exhaust side. Cant get to the 4 bolts that hold the retainers on (clearance issues between oil drain bung, water passesges) and searching for a bracket to relocate the wastegate actuator so I can re clock it.

 

GL fam.

 

I have built my car with some of the same parts you are using. The RX7 injectors I have are the 440s. They are a cheap option and work but they don't offer much in terms of overhead. You are limited by them pretty early on at stock fuel pressures. Not a huge deal if you are happy with ~200hp. I probably wouldn't be on a full weight car but mine is only ~1850lbs so 200hp works for me. I am going to link you my build thread. You should look how the turbo is clocked and what was done for the wastegate actuator. It's not perfect but functional. Get an electronic boost controller. I have some videos on how to set these things up. I had spark blow out issues around 13psi and .028 spark gap. I have gone to D585 coils and had great success with them. Listen to some of the people on here but don't take all of it for gospel. Some have had better luck than others with equipment and vendors. You are going to make mistakes, kinda comes with the territory when adding an entire system to a car that wasn't engineered or designed for it. Good luck bud. It's addictive and fun if you enjoy the process.

https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...s-build-86933/

 

I like what you did with mounting the WGA on the stud on the intake neck, Ill of course have to modify the stock rod to give it a bit more length but other than that I'm for sure plagiarizing that idea thank you. absolutely will be happy in the 200 whp range but I'm not looking for all out speed yet, just to get my foot in the door in regards to putting it all together and making it all work. Did you have any issues making the LC2 talk to the DIY ecu?

 

Honestly I have had zero issues with my LC2. I did run MS2 with the LC2 on an NA setup for about 6 months before I put the turbo on the car. I would highly suggest that method since blowing up an NA BP takes some well placed ignorance.