Recommend the best BOV for my boost levels.
10-16-2014, 11:32 AM
#122
"@Vlad: Sure, you can do it that way, if you want to potentially take in unmetered air. I would just tune for idle if I had a stock or junkyard engine, but with a TSE engine, I'm not taking any chances. For a BOV like the Forge, all the spring's real job is to keep it shut during vacuum - although Forge may label their weakest spring as a "5-15psi spring", even the weakest spring should be enough to keep the BOV shut under boost in any situation Miata owners run into. Of course, assuming the BOV is properly hooked up, which I seriously doubt it is if it works as the OP says.
TL;DR: Stronger spring = keeps it shut under vacuum easier, opens under boost harder. Find weakest spring that keeps it shut at desired vacuum, done.
TL;DR: Stronger spring = keeps it shut under vacuum easier, opens under boost harder. Find weakest spring that keeps it shut at desired vacuum, done.
You realize that decel provides the maximum amount of vacuum, so if the bov stayed closed at decel, it would ALWAYS STAY CLOSED right? As in, even after you get into boost and let off, it would remain closed. It would never open, unless being forced open by the charge in the pipes, and if that was the case you'd get compressor surge 100% of the time.
think about it for a second.
Last edited by 18psi; 10-16-2014 at 11:52 AM.
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10-16-2014, 11:45 AM
#123
The EBC works fine, I just haven't tuned it that much yet. Honestly I don't really care about it at this point but I appreciate the input.
You should disconnect your ebc, just sayin
I don't have any vacuum fittings around the house so I'll try and pick some up today and make all of you happy when it ends up being something stupid and I look like an idiot. Thats usually how most threads end for me
Why buy more hose, you have most of it under the hood.
You should disconnect your ebc, just sayinI don't have any vacuum fittings around the house so I'll try and pick some up today and make all of you happy when it ends up being something stupid and I look like an idiot. Thats usually how most threads end for me
Why buy more hose, you have most of it under the hood.
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10-16-2014, 12:06 PM
#124
I meant fittings, but I ended up finding some.
Mom! Dad! Look! I did a thing!
Okay, so now the BOV is defiently opening, I can now hear it "woosh" even at lower boost levels....
But it still does that "te te te te te" sound after venting.
BUT, I noticed that it makes that sound even when in vacuum still. Logic tells me it's not possible to have compressor surge in vacuum, even if it's almost to boost levels (0-10 vacuum In.Hg).
So... Not compressor surge, but BOV flutter?
Mom! Dad! Look! I did a thing!
Okay, so now the BOV is defiently opening, I can now hear it "woosh" even at lower boost levels....
But it still does that "te te te te te" sound after venting.
BUT, I noticed that it makes that sound even when in vacuum still. Logic tells me it's not possible to have compressor surge in vacuum, even if it's almost to boost levels (0-10 vacuum In.Hg).
So... Not compressor surge, but BOV flutter?
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10-16-2014, 12:17 PM
#126
I'd expect a little chatter from the bov, but now its prob a better sounding "te te te te te" than before.
The next thing I'd do is disconnect your EBC and run from the compressor housing strait to the wastegate. (very easy, just leave the wastegate line plugged in, swap from the EBC to the compressor house)
You'll have lower boost, possibly not as quick spool up when building boost. BUT! I bet this eliminates some of the extra "te te te te" after it vents. I only experience bov chatter in very low 0-5psi range, not really pushing the car.
Edit* Also, try swapping springs as 18 mentioned! ^^
The next thing I'd do is disconnect your EBC and run from the compressor housing strait to the wastegate. (very easy, just leave the wastegate line plugged in, swap from the EBC to the compressor house)
You'll have lower boost, possibly not as quick spool up when building boost. BUT! I bet this eliminates some of the extra "te te te te" after it vents. I only experience bov chatter in very low 0-5psi range, not really pushing the car.
Edit* Also, try swapping springs as 18 mentioned! ^^
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10-16-2014, 07:29 PM
#127
Bypassed the EBC. Didn't really do much. I mean maybe it helped a tiny bit but that's it. Using the wastegare directly actually wasn't horrible. I only went for a very quick drive though so couldn't evaluate much.
I can try another spring tomorrow but I don't see why either springs getting heavier would help. I also still don't know if I have BOV flutter or compressor surge lol, but at this point I would assume it's flutter since I definetly hear the valve opening on throttle lift. I don't see how a valve that large could not be venting enough air, unless it has to do with the second smaller spring closing too fast or something.
I can try another spring tomorrow but I don't see why either springs getting heavier would help. I also still don't know if I have BOV flutter or compressor surge lol, but at this point I would assume it's flutter since I definetly hear the valve opening on throttle lift. I don't see how a valve that large could not be venting enough air, unless it has to do with the second smaller spring closing too fast or something.
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10-16-2014, 08:57 PM
#128
Te te te te is caused by the secondary valve. On mine i had to install a thinner spring. Unfortunately they dont sell thinner springs from forge for it so I had to go get one from ace hardware.
It's caused by the pressure wave forcing the valve open as it bounces back and forth. It opens at higher boost however at low boost it's not enough so it's not blown open.
It's caused by the pressure wave forcing the valve open as it bounces back and forth. It opens at higher boost however at low boost it's not enough so it's not blown open.
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10-17-2014, 01:20 AM
#130
Well i'm pretty sure i explained it when i said to remove the small valve and test it. It only leaks between 60 and 80kpa because theres just enough pressure made by the turbo to force it open and the main valve is still open. Over 80kpa the main valve closes and the leak goes away.
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10-17-2014, 10:03 PM
#135
Retired Mech Design Engr
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This is what I bought: 007P in Black
Recommended to put side outlet to pressure, 1" filter on the other. Works well, and more consistently than the MITSUBISHI I pulled off.
I don't think it even leaks at low vacuum, but I'm running the blue spring.
Yes, less expensive than the double piston, especially since it came with the 3 springs.
Recommended to put side outlet to pressure, 1" filter on the other. Works well, and more consistently than the MITSUBISHI I pulled off.
I don't think it even leaks at low vacuum, but I'm running the blue spring.
Yes, less expensive than the double piston, especially since it came with the 3 springs.
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10-18-2014, 01:01 PM
#137
Retired Mech Design Engr
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Max at this time is 8 psi. I agree with Vlad, I think that is nearly irrelevant. I don't want my BOV to act as a boost fuse. To be honest, not a lot of difference between the various springs. The manifold line is the main component driving the action.
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