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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 729939)
Done, I hope. It was nice to finally wash off the cutoff wheel dust. It sounds the same as it's always have, not a cool boxer-ish rumble of the other brand manifold posted earlier here in this thread. Oh well. I only drove it around my block twice to make sure there was no leaks and grind off the rust on the brake disks. So far it only makes about 3psi at 2000 whereas my previous manifold, my replacement BEGI/FM tubular manifold, would make 5 or so. I may go out to get a ritas and play with it. Or I may drink some beers. :dunno:
ATP sent me a black silicone 90 instead of a blue which was even on the packing list in the box, oh well. I also have to throw on the toyota COPs, maybe. |
Originally Posted by triple88a
(Post 729951)
Flipping the pipe between the black and the blue might give you a bit more room so the black hose isnt that sharply bent?
Originally Posted by Faeflora
(Post 729964)
Same temperature weather for the spool comparison? I think it looks good! The collector looks like it is a very low merge angle. winnnninnn....g?
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That is one interesting looking manifold. Hopefully we see what numbers it puts down next weekend.
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have pics of intercooler pipe routing from turbo to intercooler?
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looks like someone who wanted to redo lower rad pipe could run the compressor outlet down between the frame and engine and avoid the sharp bend through the fender... no?
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The only sharp bend in the cold side piping is the black 90 silicone transition that is at the turbo outlet. Are you guys suggesting that it could cause my lack of low end torque?
http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/acps...ighmount11.jpg I ran two 90's at the turbo outlet with my first tubular begi replacement mani back when I made 268rwhp and that felt peppy. http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/begi...rdflowbegi.JPG https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...9&d=1241455020 got torque? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...0&d=1241455020 The 'version 2' manifold felt more torquey than that setup, but I also redid the first section of I/C pipes. Never dynoed it however. http://www.absurdflow.com/miata/begi...replver217.jpg Intercooler piping pics: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...tercooler7.JPG http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...tercooler6.JPG Post I/C: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...tercooler3.JPG http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...tercooler4.JPG Or, having not driven the miata for half a year, I could just be used to the subaru's low end torque. That's probably the case. There's some things I have to check and I haven't brought her above 4500 yet, hell I've only put maybe a mile on it so far. |
thanks for the pics, awesome, looks like I know what way I want to route my piping now. Can you take the fender off without taking the front bumper off?
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Just about, though you have to loosen it. There's a nut right under where the bumper meets the wing.
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You can usually move the fender far enough to get access without moving that nut, I've noticed.
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 730037)
The only sharp bend in the cold side piping is the black 90 silicone transition that is at the turbo outlet. Are you guys suggesting that it could cause my lack of low end torque?
if you already had the fender prepped for pipeage, then that works. |
There was a portable Dynojet dyno at Jesel's BBQ today. My DIY Ball/spring MBC, which is pretty damn close to 14psi on the street, could only muster to hold 9psi on the dyno. Just like the delaware dynojet, I can't make the same boost on a dyno as on the street, and we weren't allowed to tweak anything between our 2 runs. Soo at 9psi I did 249rwhp, dynojet, GT2560R. I reallllyyyy want to see what this will do at 14psi damnit.
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very impressive.
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wow, wtf?? 250whp on only 9psi? that is some damn impressive numbers for such measly boost and a small turbo.
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God damn Tim, that's impressive. I'm only making 242hp/230wtq at 12psi on a tater, but I'm under the curb and on low compression. Maybe I need to run 16 and flauce like a bauce, again.
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any possibility of offering intercooler piping?
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I am loving the way this manifold looks, and great price according to your future projects page. Would there be any extra charge for t3 flanges on any of you manifolds instead of t2?
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 743667)
wow, wtf?? 250whp on only 9psi? that is some damn impressive numbers for such measly boost and a small turbo.
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That sounds kind of high for a 2560 at 9psi.
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I'll post a screenshot of the datalog. IIRC Peak at 12psi @ torque peak but droping steadily to 9psi at redline.
Youtube vid from a coworker. I'll answer more questions and get the screenshots shortly. |
OK there's so much noise in my MAP sensor it's not funny. Eyeballing an average line between the peaks & valleys (~1psi spread) shows 13psi at 3550rpm140rwhp/210ftlb (350rpm higher than my last mt.net dyno day with the version 1 begi/fm tubular replacement mani).
That holds avg. 13psi to 5400rpm: 230hp/225ftlb. Then it starts dropping to avg 11.5psi at 6000rpm which is my HP peak of 249hp/215ftlb. Torque is pretty much horizontal between 3500 & 6000 with max of 230 (94 head FTL). From 6000 to 6800 it drops pretty sharply to 9psi. At 7200 I was at 8.5psi avg, 235rwhp and like 175ftlbs. Also at 120F IAT and 210coolant temps. My second run of 241hp was at 140IAT & 220coolant haha. So I should have said I made 249rwhp @ 11.5 psi @ 6000rpm. Lo siento. -or- 235rwhp @8.5psi @ 7200 If i can find my memory stick that works with windows 98 (or a new memory stick with win98 drivers :vash: ) I will transfer the screenshot of the log. Again this manifold spools ~350 rpm slower than my version1 begi/fm replacement mani. While I never dynoed my version 2 while I had it (skidude's new mani), it felt quicker than the version 1. But this manifold feel better up top by a noticable amount, when it holds 14psi to 7200 on the street. So whatever. |
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