Swapping heater core inlet and outlet hoses
#1
Swapping heater core inlet and outlet hoses
Can I swap the heater core inlet and outlets? Like literally run the hose from under the manifold to the left port, and the hose behind the head to the right port?
The line going under the manifold is leaking, and it’s too close to my downpipe for comfort. If i just get a 90* bent hose then i can easily send it straight into the left port and keep it away from my downpipe. The hose that goes behind the head has enough free play to go onto the right port. Seems like it should be fine to swap them right?
The line going under the manifold is leaking, and it’s too close to my downpipe for comfort. If i just get a 90* bent hose then i can easily send it straight into the left port and keep it away from my downpipe. The hose that goes behind the head has enough free play to go onto the right port. Seems like it should be fine to swap them right?
#2
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...rm=dayco+80401
Planning on using this as the new hose, I’ll just cut it down to size
Planning on using this as the new hose, I’ll just cut it down to size
#3
Direction of flow through the heater core does not matter.
I'd try to find a silicone 90 degree hose or put a cool sleeve on a rubber hose due to the heat right there.
Something like this
Metallic Heat Shield Sleeve Insulated Wire Hose Cover Wrap Loom Tube 3/4" 3 Ft | eBay
If you've done a re-route you can also add a heater control valve like this
This has to be installed in a cooler location and will require longer hoses to connect. That valve fits a bunch of Toyotas, is 5/8 on both sides, will seal off totally, and will hold open or shut without anything else.
From Toyota it is $140, aftermarket as low as $15 and the inexpensive valves seem to work fine. I put them in lots of cars now days (heater control valve are a thing of the past regarding newer cars).
I've found nothing else that works as well as the Toyota valves
It should be installed in the inlet hose (from back of cylinder head).
This will eliminate a 200 degree heat source from inside the car during the summer months.
This is important in Texas, probably Georgia as well...
If you haven't installed a re-route it will most likely blow your head gasket as the heater core itself is the main flow path from the back of the cylinder head in OEM configuration.
I detest worm drive clamps especially on thin *** heater connections. The worm clamps distort the shape of both the hose and the aluminum tube. The tubes can be straightened using 1/4 drive deep sockets of variable diameters and careful manipulation.
The spring clamps (I call them strangle clamps) do not distort the tubes and never loosen. The worm clamps always loosen with age.
I'd try to find a silicone 90 degree hose or put a cool sleeve on a rubber hose due to the heat right there.
Something like this
Metallic Heat Shield Sleeve Insulated Wire Hose Cover Wrap Loom Tube 3/4" 3 Ft | eBay
If you've done a re-route you can also add a heater control valve like this
This has to be installed in a cooler location and will require longer hoses to connect. That valve fits a bunch of Toyotas, is 5/8 on both sides, will seal off totally, and will hold open or shut without anything else.
From Toyota it is $140, aftermarket as low as $15 and the inexpensive valves seem to work fine. I put them in lots of cars now days (heater control valve are a thing of the past regarding newer cars).
I've found nothing else that works as well as the Toyota valves
It should be installed in the inlet hose (from back of cylinder head).
This will eliminate a 200 degree heat source from inside the car during the summer months.
This is important in Texas, probably Georgia as well...
If you haven't installed a re-route it will most likely blow your head gasket as the heater core itself is the main flow path from the back of the cylinder head in OEM configuration.
I detest worm drive clamps especially on thin *** heater connections. The worm clamps distort the shape of both the hose and the aluminum tube. The tubes can be straightened using 1/4 drive deep sockets of variable diameters and careful manipulation.
The spring clamps (I call them strangle clamps) do not distort the tubes and never loosen. The worm clamps always loosen with age.
Last edited by technicalninja; 06-19-2022 at 11:12 AM. Reason: clamps
#4
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
Direction of flow through the heater core does not matter.
I'd try to find a silicone 90 degree hose or put a cool sleeve on a rubber hose due to the heat right there.
Something like this
Metallic Heat Shield Sleeve Insulated Wire Hose Cover Wrap Loom Tube 3/4" 3 Ft | eBay
If you've done a re-route you can also add a heater control valve like this
Amazon.com: Four Seasons 74001 Heater Control Valve : Automotive
This has to be installed in a cooler location and will require longer hoses to connect. That valve fits a bunch of Toyotas, is 5/8 on both sides, will seal off totally, and will hold open or shut without anything else.
From Toyota it is $140, aftermarket as low as $15 and the inexpensive valves seem to work fine. I put them in lots of cars now days (heater control valve are a thing of the past regarding newer cars).
I've found nothing else that works as well as the Toyota valves
It should be installed in the inlet hose (from back of cylinder head).
I'd try to find a silicone 90 degree hose or put a cool sleeve on a rubber hose due to the heat right there.
Something like this
Metallic Heat Shield Sleeve Insulated Wire Hose Cover Wrap Loom Tube 3/4" 3 Ft | eBay
If you've done a re-route you can also add a heater control valve like this
Amazon.com: Four Seasons 74001 Heater Control Valve : Automotive
This has to be installed in a cooler location and will require longer hoses to connect. That valve fits a bunch of Toyotas, is 5/8 on both sides, will seal off totally, and will hold open or shut without anything else.
From Toyota it is $140, aftermarket as low as $15 and the inexpensive valves seem to work fine. I put them in lots of cars now days (heater control valve are a thing of the past regarding newer cars).
I've found nothing else that works as well as the Toyota valves
It should be installed in the inlet hose (from back of cylinder head).
Thanks for this, by the @technicalninja
@Joe Perez Some time back, you asked about the ability of the A/C to cool your Miata (in N/C, I believe). This will help... if you have a re-route.
Note: I plan to log the coolant warm-up curve with this valve on and off, to see if blocking the flow pre-thermostat makes any difference. Full disclosure: I don't remember which thermostat I have, but am pretty sure it has a bypass jiggler.
DNM
Last edited by DNMakinson; 07-29-2022 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Replace autocorrected "juggler" with "jiggle".
#5
Retired Mech Design Engr
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Seneca, SC
Posts: 5,009
Total Cats: 857
I logged from cold start on successive days. Similar overnight temps. Once with heater valve closed, once opened. This is with a Skou re-route block,
Open heater valve came to 191 in 242 seconds
Closed heater valve came to 190 in 237 seconds
So... No difference to the engine / thermostat.
DNM
Open heater valve came to 191 in 242 seconds
Closed heater valve came to 190 in 237 seconds
So... No difference to the engine / thermostat.
DNM
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