Pay for car 500$ and pay for extra hp 3000$ just for fun?)

 

thanx techsalvager for short and resonable answer)))

 

Absolutely. If you want something more modern you can get an Evo 9 for $15,000 and spend $10k to make it keep up with one of our cars. You can also buy a C5z for $20,000 if that makes you feel better. Wrap up the package price, compare, then tell me how I and everyone else on this forum made the right decision. I have ~$15k in my car that I bought for $1600 (if you subtract the mistakes). Show me a $20k car that can run the times I run at one of the tracks I know like Hallett. It can't be done.

 

Like was said, replace the ECU with a computer which will let you run in speed/density (all of them) so you can ditch the AFM/MAF and not have to worry about what effect your BOV has on AFR. Then, run whatever BOV you like. Running an EMS will also allow you to part with your FPR, O2 clamp, and MSD box. Trade your 305s for 460+ and you'll be good to go. The jump to an EMS is worth it, every time.

That's kind of the entire point of this forum, isn't it?

 

kinda, i wish i can go MS but as i told already that the closest dyno is 200 miles from me. thats a main problem. cauz i cant tune it myself. and im doing this first time, so I think that my setup is good for novice, isn it??? And some experince for me. I know tha easyer to buy ready kit and read pictioral instruction, but i would love to get more experience with tune for the future=) starting from how you said "bandaid"
But Thanx everybody.

 

Sure, piecing a band-aid solution together is a good way to learn the ins and outs if you're not familiar with FI or cars in general (that's how I did it before my MS). But as your needs grow, so too does the need for "proper" management.

Dyno is a moot point. I (no expert, by any means) roughly tuned in my fuel and left the spark as standard on DIY's basemap until I dynoed, which was also roughly 200 miles from me. Megalogviewer made this easy. Even on that rough tune, which was just DIY's basemap with fuel tailored to my setup, the car was much more driveable than with bandaids, and after going to the dyno, fuggitaboutit.

And I can run whatever BOV I choose.

 

You might not want one at that point. Recirc isn't always silent like you think. It is on factory turbo cars for the most part, but that has more to do with the factory air box silencing everything. You will be running some kind of cone air filter and it will be noisier.

 

I have a begi re-circulatory BOV and crossover pipe, and a pipe with the air filter for sale Here. Shoot me a pm and we can work something out. Sound wise it is only a little quieter then my Tial VTA BOV.

 

Fast and Furious 5??? do you really need the annoying sound between every shift?
i'd love to go without it if I could. but then there are guys running 4 PSI and look for the loudest BOV to announce "this here car is fast sounding". good luck .....