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I’m running the OEM pump and it has taken me to 294whp without a hiccup. Car is currently sitting at around 270whp and hits the targets every time in boost
My Kraken kit arrived last week and I passed my last emissions test in Maryland. I've decided to go with a online tuner that seems to have good reviews on one of the facebook groups. Steve something.
Next on my purchase list is injectors.
Trying to decide between FF 900 and the newer ID 1050xds. Will the 1050s struggle to idle with the lower horsepower (phase 1)?
Lastly I need to figure out my water and oil lines. I canceled the lines from Kraken and decide to go with my own. I contacted a local Hose fiting shop and then will make them only using their materials. They claimed the use hose with Teflon inside and it's less flexible. Any other ideas for the hoses? I will be grabbing oil from the sending using the PRL splitter. Thanks.
My Kraken kit arrived last week and I passed my last emissions test in Maryland. I've decided to go with a online tuner that seems to have good reviews on one of the facebook groups. Steve something.
Next on my purchase list is injectors.
Trying to decide between FF 900 and the newer ID 1050xds. Will the 1050s struggle to idle with the lower horsepower (phase 1)?
Lastly I need to figure out my water and oil lines. I canceled the lines from Kraken and decide to go with my own. I contacted a local Hose fiting shop and then will make them only using their materials. They claimed the use hose with Teflon inside and it's less flexible. Any other ideas for the hoses? I will be grabbing oil from the sending using the PRL splitter. Thanks.
I just switched from FF 640's to 1050x. started right up (even with a fresh rebuilt engine) after changing required fuel. Idled BEAUTIFULLY albeit a little rich. Also the ID's come with small pulsewidth data so arguably the best option.
I decided on the ID1050s. Seems like a little more for future proofing headroom for power.
Onto the AN lines. I’ve figured out most of what I need for the oil feed and drain but struggling a bit with the coolant lines. Is there anyway to do AN lines without a coolant reroute on the NB2? I see that I would get the feed from the nipple of coolant neck and return just below, but not sure how to get an lines on there. Or am I just shooting myself in the foot and do the coolant reroute now. I’m up for suggestions. Thanks everyone.
From what I’ve seen from Steve he tends to tune the car on the rich side. Most of the virtual dyno pulls I’ve seen him post have the car very rich as soon as you enter boost and all the way into 10s at peak boost in high rpm. It varies slightly but I was gonna use him and after reviewing all his dyno charts I decided that for performance I was going to go elsewhere. You leave a lot of power on the table being in 10s at full boost instead of 11.6-8. And when I leaned out my spool up so I wasn’t immediately getting to low 12s/high 11s below 6psi I saw a 300rpm decrease in spool time, and then of course same power up to with less boost.
Onto the AN lines. I’ve figured out most of what I need for the oil feed and drain but struggling a bit with the coolant lines. Is there anyway to do AN lines without a coolant reroute on the NB2? I see that I would get the feed from the nipple of coolant neck and return just below, but not sure how to get an lines on there. Or am I just shooting myself in the foot and do the coolant reroute now. I’m up for suggestions. Thanks everyone.
I think you're gonna need a coolant reroute if you want to AN the water lines now. I'm not aware of a way to get those AN connections secured to the OEM waterneck nipples but maybe someone else here knows the answer.
Doing a coolant reroute with the engine in situ is a pain in the **** but your hand may be forced by going AN. You could skip the reroute for now and use good old fashioned 5/16 rubber water lines onto the existing waterneck nipples as a temporary measure.
That's what I'm doing for now. Is it optimal? No. But I'll take my chances at 220hp and do the reroute & AN lines on my spare VVT motor. Much eaiser doing it outside of the car.
typically what I do is -6 male fitting on the turbo, run whatever SS line you want, but then use a -6 female to 5/16 barb adapter and use 5/16 fuel injection hose to the water neck barb. The fuel injection hose is over kill, but I know it'll last, and isn't thick walled like some generic water hose. I do this right off the turbo with fire sleeve.
If you want, you'd want to get a -6 aluminum weld on fitting, and weld it to the water neck, but that's a bit over kill. I've seen a plastic zip tie holding a piece of insulation around a clutch slave survive 8 hours of racing a 1/4" from the exhaust. So a rubber hose an inch away from the turbine isn't too scary.
typically what I do is -6 male fitting on the turbo, run whatever SS line you want, but then use a -6 female to 5/16 barb adapter and use 5/16 fuel injection hose to the water neck barb. The fuel injection hose is over kill, but I know it'll last, and isn't thick walled like some generic water hose. I do this right off the turbo with fire sleeve.
If you want, you'd want to get a -6 aluminum weld on fitting, and weld it to the water neck, but that's a bit over kill. I've seen a plastic zip tie holding a piece of insulation around a clutch slave survive 8 hours of racing a 1/4" from the exhaust. So a rubber hose an inch away from the turbine isn't too scary.
This is perfect for the coolant lines. Thanks so much.
I’m a little confused regarding the oil feed. I plan on using the prl Stainless T on the oil pressure sender. Since this line is obviously much longer than 18” inches I see that BW suggests upping the line from a -4 to -6. Turbo comes with a -4AN male end. I’ve looked around and can’t find any -6AN BW oil feed fittings. Will any -6AN fitting work?
as far as progress goes, I have the ms3pro installed as well as the injectors and wide band. Might throw her up on jack stands this weekend for the rest of the goodies.
-4 will be fine for the turbo feed. You're not going much over 18". As far as I know, you'd be the first person to run a -6 feed line to their EFR if you did.
-4 will be fine for the turbo feed. You're not going much over 18". As far as I know, you'd be the first person to run a -6 feed line to their EFR if you did.
Curly,
I have -6 feed line to my turbo. Seems to be working well. I my line is pretty long (comes from passenger side, around front of bay, and then to turbo), and sometimes in the spring/summer its a bit chilly, so I figured it couldn't hurt. So far so good.
I will say that routing the larger -6 lines for everything to the turbo sucked with the Kraken low mount setup. It is all a super tight fit.
I’m getting really close to finishing and have a tune scheduled on Tuesday. Started up on the first time(after priming turbo of course) with no leaks. Now I’m trying to figure out the intake. Did I clock this right? Can I move the power steering reservoir?
Bingo, thats what Kraken Michael said as well regarding adding another 90 degree elbow but pointing the intake towards center of the car.
Do you guys have any tips or good guides for adjusting the preload on the wastegate?
Good news so far is there aren't any oil or coolant leaks. I drove around to start the tuning process for several hours on Tuesday. Appears we have a boost leak somwhere but I think I know what it is. There are 3 allen wrench bolts that hold the wastegate to the turbo. Two of the three have fallen off and the third was backed half way out. I'm assuming the super floppy wastegate would cause boosting issues. Anyone know if I can or should use thread locker on these to ensure they don't come out again?
Making some progress here. I reclocked the turbo as it looked the arm was binding when wastegate was opening. I also received screws and used locktite when installing them.
Setting the Trigger offset for ms3 Pro.
When initially setting it up. I had mine setup to 6.5 degrees. I then got Flowforce r8 coils. Installed them and car was running ok. Installed the turbo all the supporting mods. Started the turning process and the turner immediately wanted to confirm base timing is set correctly. When using the timing gun, it was no where close. We had to set the timing to 19.6. Has anyone seen this before? Could I have setup the R8 coil wiring wrong causing this error or would it not have run at all? Thanks again for all the help.
Update. It turns out Industrial injection actually sent the medium boost canister on my turbo. We got that sorted up out now but still having over boost issues. I hit boost cut in 3rd gear when WOTt around 5k rpm. I believe the boost cut is set within Tunerstudio to 13.5 psi. Does this sound right? I thought the with the design of this turbo that wastegate is really efficient. I might check to re clock the turbo again but it doesn't look like it's binding at all.
I've seen a couple other over boost threads here for EFRs but there doesn't seem like a common solution. Thanks.
How are the boost/vacuum lines connected to the wastegate? Try connecting the line from the comp. housing directly to the wastegate see if that helps.
Compressor to efr 3 port ebc to wastegate. I also have the ebc wired up but not configured/ turned off in tuner studio. I’m thinking of just unplugging the pig tail to see if that helps
04-16-2021, 11:13 AM
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