I've been looking at the trackdog intercoolers. I would like to use a VW intercooler that is simular to the TDR IC.

It looks like they left the radiator at the bottom mounts and leaned the Rad back. I bet I could make a plate to lean the rad back and sneek the tubes through.

That would be so much simpler and tubing efficient.

What do you think?

Has Anyone tried it?

 

Their kit actually comes with brackets that lowers and moves the top of the rad back. Im sure it could easily be replicated. However the conventional setup up works just fine so I had no intrest in trying.
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Just set back and watch Daddy. LOL

I wounder how far you have to lean it back?

I may have to drill new lower Radiator mount holes for the mount studs on the radiator.

that way if I lowered the radiator a inch, I think it would clear.

 

LOL you posted it before i thought of it.

You the man.

 

Here's their instructions, I believe you have move it back 1.5".

Introduction - Track Dog Racing Air To Air Intercooler Installation
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I think that would do it.

And I have some flat 1 1/2 wide mounting steel strips, that could easily make some mounts. Just need a little help from the blow torch.

Or Walmart has some nice bread pans that could be turned into air scoopers, and or a flat covering to make it look clean. I may do that next week.

 

Cool, keep us updated.
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I think the "new" brackets TDR's kit comes with are just the regular ones with either a new hole drilled or one of the holes slotted to let it bolt to the rails in the same place as the anti-roll bar mounts. Not hard to duplicate. Add some longer top mounts to tilt it back however much is required, and you're in business.

I'm going down and around the outside like a trailer park girl because I have a big-**** front anti-roll bar and a Hugh Jass radiator and don't want to have to buy new fans.

 

Great setup.

If I ever re-do my kit, over the rad is the way im gonna go.

 

I was looking at that. Can you still bolt the swaybar back onto it? Or does the Rad get in the way?

I'll figure something out. I'm only using 2 inch pipe anyway. So I'm hoping I can get away with just drilling the rad pin holes, and leaning it back. I'm a big fan of try to leave factory engineering locations alone if possible. Things usually break less that way.

It does look clean.
When I get back I'm going to look hard into it.

 

Or a side by side, probably side by side first to make it the simplest it can possibly be.

 

I used to have a TDR IC with my MP62. The stock radiator bracket is modded a little to allow the radiator to be lowered around 1/4". The sheet that goes over the core support is what rocks the rad inward a little and secures it. The OEM upper rad bolts aren't used. I think the TDR setup is really well designed and implemented. The IC is very efficient. If it were me, I'd run a standard turbo to IC pipe setup in mild steel to get some heat out, and the TDR style IC to TB. Or just go simple and have it all emulate the TDR design.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t4829/#post46093

Post #24.

Tried to link to the specific post, but clicking on the top-right #24 links the whole thread.

 

not to change the subject but i have seen a few people route the tubes through the two holes in the front support. It's still over the rad and you dont have to move it.

The one's ive seen use 2" tubing and 2.5" but had to trim the holes a little bigger for the 2.5

 

Just finally got a TDR for my MP62.... Did the install two weeks ago, over the long weekend.

Sofla is right, basically, there's 3 parts to the "design".

1) you need to cut the upper rad support, well knotch it would be a good description. The core is suspended in front of the condensor off the back of the bumper support.
2) You need to "bend" the condensor support brackets and tabs to help make sure it fits there with the tubes over top.
3) The "top" plate with the TDR bracket, is what actually supports the rad.... Right now I only had the one L bracket, so it's supported on the driver's side and a zaptie is holding the pax (more to get rid of an annoying rattle).

Also, you need to drill new holes for the lower rad supports. The "rubber" gets moved down a 1/2", which helps drop the rad down below the tubes.

That said, the other stuff added to the kit, are the plastic panels, that help funnel air through the mouth. It makes sure the air goes through the IC/condensor/rad combo, instead of around. I'm presently running without the bottom ones, and the sides, since I needed to replace my undertray (stock one), since mine was cracked all over the place.

Even yesterday with "low 20's, high teens degrees C"-- the car with the stock rad, was running great from a temp perspective. No overheat issues at all.

Dave,